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Profile monokote question

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 9 of 9 known posts recovered

rootbeard · Aug 07, 2004 01:19 AM

#0 source
I know I read it some place on how to cover the profile fuse. I search ssw with no luck. Anyone remember where I might have read this?

Thanks
Paul

I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much has changed.

Ray · Aug 07, 2004 11:25 AM

#1 source
I'm not a big user of x-kotes but perhaps can offer two thoughts. First - I have seen profile ships completed with this type of covering and it seems to work. Two - believe there was an article in Flying Models in the late 80's or very early 90's that discussed the process. As I recall - the Fuselage with Vertical Fin, the Wing, the Stab, and Flight Control surfaces were covered separately. Where the wing & stab contacts the fuselage, cut and peel diamond shaped pieces of the x-kote away. These holes should not connect so the covering doesn't shrink and pull back. After glueing together - fill in all gaps. Using narrow strips of covering material and the corner of the iron, make the filets. Install flight controls. Engine mount area could be sealed with thinned epoxy, brushed on prior to covering. Big disclaimer here, Paul....I'm a dope and silkspan type.

Ray Ferreira, Jr

Harleyman · Aug 07, 2004 12:45 PM

#2 source
I like to spray the fuse and tail feathers w/Rustoleum then $kote the wings after. Quick and easy and ends up looking pretty good. This method will provide more fuel resistance and get you in the air fast.

Chris

shholt · Aug 07, 2004 04:33 PM

#3 source
There are a lot of different opinions on covering fuselages with Monokote (or similar films) so this is just mine. I build the airplane including installing the wing before covering. I then dope the bare wood with nitrate dope or Balsarite and sand smooth. I also fuel proof the engine area with finishing resin. The first Monokote applied is narrow strips along the fillet area between the fuselage and the wing, stabilizer, and rudder. About 1/2" for the wing and 1/4" for the tail. This seals the joints and helps prevent fuel from seeping under the film. I then cover the wood parts bonding the film to the wood over the entire area. I prefer to tack the corners with an iron, then attach the film with a heat gun and glove to press it tightly to the wood. Since I have a bad habit of damaging models while working in the shop, I usually cover the wing last.
Steve
The older I get, the better I used to fly!

Pancho · Aug 07, 2004 09:26 PM

#4 source
Hi Guy, Buy the book, "There Are No Secrets" by Harry Higley; and the Vin Stully series on how to Mono Coat. Finally the video which Tower sells on the topic of Monocoating is excellent. I am not new nor am I a returning person however I am a neophite to iron on covering and these all are helping me immensely! You will be satisfied too!

Phil Spillman

rootbeard · Aug 07, 2004 10:10 PM

#5 source
Thanks guys,
I think I remember reading something about covering the top and bottom of a profile fuse, and then the sides?

Paul

I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much has changed.

shholt · Aug 08, 2004 11:09 AM

#6 source
I always try to make all seams in the film facing either aft or down to prevent fuel from seeping into the joint. I cover the bottom of the fuselage first, then the sides, then the top.

Another suggestion I got recently was to spray a little gloss clear Lustercote into a jar and using a very fine brush, paint a thin line over the seams. I will try this on my next airplane.

Steve
The older I get, the better I used to fly!

gtrbaby · Aug 08, 2004 07:51 PM

#7 source
Paul,

Cover the top and bottom like you say....leave an overlap down the sides ( about 1/8th inch ) then apply cote to the flat sides....to make a neat edge you can trim the cote where it overlaps...makes the seam almost invisible... except on the neon colours that have a white backing.......

In the battle of airplane V ground, the ground is yet to lose.

Steve Scott · Aug 08, 2004 08:39 PM

#8 source
>Thanks guys,
>I think I remember reading something about covering the top
>and bottom of a profile fuse, and then the sides?

On a profile? I just use left and right side pieces, overlapping the seams on the top and bottom. Cover the outboard side first then you don't get centrifugal force working against the seam. I should add that ALL my profile fuselages feature rounded edges - typically to a ΒΌ" radius.