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"Foaming" diesels, part 2...

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Lou_Crane · Aug 23, 2004 06:08 PM

Foaming" diesels, part 2...#0 source
We had a lot of fun with this one a while ago. Here's another thought to consider, if you are going to play with diesels.

Bad day Sunday for two of my diesel models -- one easily repairable, other undamaged.

Symptoms: both models -- Fuel newly blended using John Deere starting ether. Field temperature near 90ยบ, severe low humidity. Ground setting not easily found, odd run in flight. Some bubbles noted in a clear run of the fuel line. Occasional smoothing out with heavy, wet exhaust plume. Odd sounding run as if it had suddenly gone extreme rich. Short airtime. Mucho oily residue, very light color, almost clear.

Both setups had the overflow vent pinhole adaptation.

Bench checking the crashed engine today, I had trouble getting a setting. Similar WX to yesterday. Many bubbles in the clear fuel line. At best, the line filled most of the way, with bubble gaps you could hear as a leaning pulse when they hit the spraybar. Note: separate bubbles, not foaming with numerous small frothy bubbles.

Voila'! Ether's low vapor pressure strikes again. The initial bench setup was with a clear fuel line that looped above the path to the spraybar nipple - sorta like an inverted U-tube. The ether went to vapor over the high point. It takes very little pressure change to do that: apparently, with a little vibration, the weight of the fuel columns each side of the high point was enough.

Rearranged the tank so the fuel path was below the spraybar and without humpback rises -- instant cure. (The engine is fine, BTW.)

Applying this to a model -- keep the fuel line short, "low" and rising to the spraybar. Think of the force directions in flight to define "low."

\BEST\LOU

Jim T. · Aug 23, 2004 06:56 PM

#1 source
Very interesting!

Jim

Ron · Aug 24, 2004 07:12 AM

RE:#2 source
My latest experiment in fuel tanks for diesel is a bladder made from a common baggie (i.e. "Zip Lock"). the Bladder is cut and sealed with a sharp hot soldering pencil tip and seems to be impervious to diesel fuel. The pick up is one of those "sintered bronze tank filters". The bladder goes inside a plastic clunk tank, and muffler pressure is vented into the tank outside the baldder (no mixing of exhaust residue and fuel). Filling is done with a syringe: suck any air out then squirt the fuel in. Works perfect on the bench... to be seen if it works in the air

Lou_Crane · Aug 24, 2004 05:01 PM

RE:#3 source
Ron,

Good idea! Gierke had a short article (a US mag or AeroModeller) many moons ago on slack bladder tanks. He didn't use a sintered clunk, tho, a (I think it was) plastic or nylon tube with a few notches along its length as well as the open end worked fine. Good to hear certain baggies are ether/kerosene proof, and easily 'welded' to make the bag. Gierke used largish balloons to get the needed volume.

That no longer works. Current plastic balloons seem to dissolve quicker than latex, the other logical choice. I've found Glad(R) film and baggies not only resist the chemistry, but have decent abrasion resistance, too. A double layer under the cap threads makes a nice sealer for fuel cans or dope jars, and is cheap enough when it HAS had it.

I've seen/heard of using external pressure in a container, and it is an intriguing idea. For my diesels and the way I use them, there seems to be ample fuel draw w/out supplementing. I can see there will be some situations that can make good use of that, tho.

E.g., converted (dieselized) glow engines with excess choke area and port flow capacity probably won't draw as well as a natch'l born diesel.

Thanks...

\BEST\LOU

Ron · Aug 24, 2004 09:42 PM

RE:#4 source
My theory is that while the pressure isn't necessary for fuel draw it does help with the ether vapor pressure thing. It certailnly helps give a cleaner cut off at the end of the run for what ever reason.