Monokote Trim Solvent

I've never used Monokote Trim solvent before, so I'm practicing before I do the real thing: applying AMA numbers to a new wing. I've learned the directions weren't kidding when they recommended a small squeegee. A finger doesn't work well at all. I seem to get the best results using the edge of a plastic bread bag clip.
My biggest problem is dust- the tiniest mote is visible once the Monokote is laid down. My lint-free cloth and paper towels are not completely lint free, so there is usually something unwanted deposited when I apply the solvent.
Does anyone have a technique to reliably eliminate the dust?
Thanks for your help!
Derek Moran

In the latest Flying Models, there is mention of a unique way to trim with Monokote. As I recall, you spray the surface with Windex, apply the trim, then sqweege it out. After it drys, use a Q-Tip to lightly apply the solvent around the edges. It wicks in, and seals the trim. Sounds good to me!

Steve

Maybe try a static gun, like the type used to "destatic" old vinyl records. that would eliminate the static, and you could wipe the suface with a tack cloth. A music store should still have them, if you want to try it. I hav'nt tried it myself, just an idea. Good luck

Hey great idea to use an antistatic gun, my wife has a hair dryer with an ION generator builtin. I'll have to uh... borrow it and see if it works.

Hey Guys,
The best & cheeeeepest way is with a small spray can of Static Guard. The problem is this, you are working on a surface that loves to produce static electricity in copious amounts.
Use a cotton cloth dampened with the static guard and this may ease your situation.

I use trim monokote or the Super stuff that has a sticky adhesive.

Applied over the surface that has been wet with water and a small amount of dish detergent (the stuff you use in the sink, not dishwasher soap). Rub it down and work out all the airbubbles. Let it dry a day or two then iron it down.

I have used the Windex method successfully on several models. Clean the surface, then wipe it with a tack rag to get rid of any residual dust particles. Spray a light coating of Windex on the surface. Place your trim down, the Windex will allow you to easily move it around. When it's positioned correctly, take an old credit card and use it as a squeege to remove the Windex from under the trim piece. Hold the trim with one hand and squeege from the middle out to the edges. No need to hurry, get all the liquid out. If it moves, just pick it up and start over. I let it sit over night and then iron down using low heat. If you try to iron too soon, any moisture under the trim will cause bubbles. Finish up with a Q Tip and some trim solvent around the edges. This works best with Monokote over Monokote. The Windex will actually start to activate the solvent on the back of the trim. I have not had any lifting problems at all.

I just tried the above technique on some Ultrakote trim pieces I am adding to a Brodak ARF Cardinal.

Windexed the base coat, slid my trim pieces into place, left them to dry overnight.

Came back to find them curled up and rolled off the wing.

What works instead of windex--if anything--when putting Utrakote in place over Ultrakote.

(The Brodak ARF Cardinal does use Ultrakote, n'cest pas?)

The "de-static" device is called a Zerostat by Discwasher. There are several on the *bay now for under $10. You could also use it if you are still technology challenged ( like me ) and still use those giant black CDs that you can see spinning when you listen to them!