APC 5x2 and Novel .061 No Workey.

Picked up a APC 5x2 for my Novel .061 and the hole is too big for the prop screw. Whats up with that? I thought a small prop like a 5x2 would fit a small engine. Do they make a spacer to go inside the prop hub?

Thanks
Paul

>Picked up a APC 5x2 for my Novel .061 and the hole is too
>big for the prop screw.

5-2 on a 061, huh? Dogs will start barking when you run that one!

> Whats up with that? I thought a
>small prop like a 5x2 would fit a small engine. Do they make
>a spacer to go inside the prop hub?

You can use some K&S telescoping tubing of the correct size.

I've been told that the equipment APC uses doesn't have the ability to make a smaller center hole.

There is someone on E-bay selling adapters for the props. search for item number 5924545304.

Be carefull revvving a plastic prop that high, it could shed the blades. For a plain bearing .061 I would try a 6x3 or 6x4.

LAST EDITED ON Oct-02-04 AT 00:53 AM (CDT)
 
>Picked up a APC 5x2 for my Novel .061 and the hole is too
>big for the prop screw. Whats up with that? I thought a
>small prop like a 5x2 would fit a small engine. Do they make
>a spacer to go inside the prop hub?
>
>
>Thanks
>Paul
>
>I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know
>what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much
>has changed.

Ron B.
F4Fguy

Paul:

I'd recommend against the 5x2. It's really not enough prop for the Norvel.As I said in my earlier post,a 5.75x3 or a 6x2 will make the best use of the power.A 6x3 is useable on a well broken-in engine but will probably make a relatively new engine run a little hot. It'll also be too fast on lines shorter than 45ft. A 6x4 is too much prop for the Norvel.It won't allow the engine to rev enough to develop full power,and it will cause overheating and erratic needle settings.

You can make adequate bushings by nesting the appropriate sizes of K&S aluminum tubing.

LAST EDITED ON Oct-02-04 AT 06:52 AM (CDT)
 
>>Picked up a APC 5x2 for my Novel .061 and the hole is too
>>big for the prop screw. Whats up with that? I thought a
>>small prop like a 5x2 would fit a small engine. Do they make
>>a spacer to go inside the prop hub?
>>
>>
>>Thanks
>>Paul
>>
>>I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know
>>what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much
>>has changed.
>
>Ron B.
>F4Fguy
>
>Paul:
>
>I'd recommend against the 5x2. It's really not enough prop
>for the Norvel.As I said in my earlier post,a 5.75x3 or a
>6x2 will make the best use of the power.A 6x3 is useable on
>a well broken-in engine but will probably make a relatively
>new engine run a little hot. It'll also be too fast on lines
>shorter than 45ft. A 6x4 is too much prop for the Norvel.It
>won't allow the engine to rev enough to develop full
>power,and it will cause overheating and erratic needle
>settings.
>
>You can make adequate bushings by nesting the appropriate
>sizes of K&S aluminum tubing.
>
>Ron B.

The biggest prop I use on my .061's is a 5x4; they're happier with a 5x3--really like the rpm's. Never tried a 5x2; it may well be too light a load. Remedy for the too-large hole is so simple: Stick a short piece of fuel line on the screw behind the prop. Self-centering. I'm surprised no-one else mentioned this; it is just an .061. (Telescoping tubing indeed.)
--Ray

>>>>I'm surprised no-one else mentioned this<<<<<

Didn't get a chance too. Fuel tubing is the way to go, is a field repair and doesn't require you to have 11.9" of wasted telescoping tubing at home. But I'm not critical, I used to cut the brass to fit, till common sense prevailed. That and I have an innate ability to put a small bushing on an exact portion of my flight box during a prop change, only to have the tubing run and hide as soon as I divert my attention. It'll take the prop stud with it I tell ya!

Ron B,
I'm surprised that a 6 x 4 is too much prop for a Norvel 061 as its fine on a TeeDee 049. I would have started with a 6 x 6 or 6 x 5. I use 6 x 5 on a PAW 80 (.049).

>Ron B,
>I'm surprised that a 6 x 4 is too much prop for a Norvel 061
>as its fine on a TeeDee 049. I would have started with a 6 x
>6 or 6 x 5. I use 6 x 5 on a PAW 80 (.049).

Ron B.
F4Fguy

Dave:

It's a matter of torque/horsepower curves.The Norvel is a powerhouse,even the Big Mig version,but it develops it's power at relatively high RPM. It will run OK at, say 14/15k, but it's (the Big Mig) really happiest at 17/18K. By the way,if you underprop, you go past the HP peak and waste power,you don't get any higher performance,you only get a lot of howling dogs.The C*X and PAW are entirely different animals,especially the PAW. The power curves are very different from not only the Norvel,but between the C*X and PAW. Most(not all) so called "diesels" have very high torque for their displacement and have relatively low RPM HP peaks.They will not only handle large prop loads,they require them to take advantage of the torque.The Norvel will run on a 6-4 or 6-5,it just won't run at it's best.As a matter of conjecture,I'd expect the Tee-Dee to run better with a little less pitch and/or diameter than you're using.

Paul,

The reason for the odd hole size is due to it being the smallest hole the fibers molded in the prop can pass through while being made. The fuel line or brass tubing idea works well. I make aluminum adaptor hubs myself.
The APC 5x2 is too small for the Norvel. The smallest I would use is the Cox 5x3. The APC has alot less blade area than other props. An APC 6x3 would be a good prop. It will give the thrust you need while letting the Norvel rev like they like to! But don't worry about losing a blade as the APC 5" prop has a limit of 38,000 rpm and the 6" APC is 31,666 rpm which you will not see with the Norvel.

I just cut a spacer from a meduim fuel tube.

I used masking tape the last time I had to do this. Just wrap it around the shaft 2-3 times.