Chinese Silk (from RSM)

" Chinese Silk
The finest quality with a much tighter weave than ordinary silk. This means that you will use less dope to fill this silk which will result in a lighter finish."

Anyone out there have experience with this?

LAST EDITED ON Oct-06-04 AT 08:22 PM (CDT)
 
Silk seems scary to use, but it is actually pretty easy. Prep the wing as if you were going to silkspan it. Be sure to give the dope a light sanding with 600 grit to remove all burrs and snags before trying to cover it. Just a touch to get rid of the sharp bits.

Cut out your silk and lay it in place dry.

Spray it lightly with water and then pull it out tight. Bond it down with very thin dope through the cloth at the root end of the wing.

Keep the silk wet with your spayer.

Work the silk out over the tip and bond it down as you go.

Keep it wet and repeat on the other side.

It is crucial that you let both sides dry together, but that isn't such a big deal.

Now, the next key is how to paint it without runs inside.

Thanks to George Aldrich, there is a trick! Use a disposable foam brush and only dip about 3/16" of the brush into the dope. If you do get a run, turn the wing upside-down and brush that area repeatedly. You can suck the dope right back out of the wing!

I prefer to do the clear coats in alternating directions at right angles.

If you want a spectacular transparent finish, start with colored silk, and use Higgins fadeproof dye in the dope. Just a bit does wonders.

I have a little plane called "Frite Streak". That is a 1/2A model silked and overcoated with epoxy! It still weighs only 6 or 7 ounces (can't remember exactly).

I still fly that plane in shows after 5 years!

Thanks for these exellent and extensive instructions. They have been printed and hung up beside the plans for the Intrepid XL i am working on. I already ordered the silk and the fadeproof ink a few days ago.

I did not order colored silk. There were no options for that on RSM.
I'll make a few test frames to find out how the ink colored dope works out on the white.

Try some of the ink in your spray water, that should get the color started early in the process. Lots of newspaper on the floor and very old clothes, of course.

On my baby Magician, I pre-dyed all the wood with ink in alcohol. Came out beautiful deep transparent color starting with colored wood and then the transparent colored dope over it.

Ok i'll give that a try
Norvald Olsvold

Some final hints:

Get one of those Olfa rotary cutters from a sewing store. I have used mine to cut fiberglass and it STILL will cut silk!

Also, the vinyl cutting mats are well worth the investment.

Even though they don't compare to the old blue blades, modern double edge razor blades are great for final trimming of silk. Cut them with a shear type paper cutter. (the old blue blades could be broken, these just bend ) (You can often get the old blades on e-bay)

Thai silk

http://www.thaisilks.com/

You want the Habotai 5MM $2.10 per yard takes Rit dye well, they take credit cards over the phone. I have used about 40 yards over the years. Some kind SAM member told me about them years ago.

How much silk would you need for a normal-sized wing, say... 48-52" span, 8-9" chord?

Tim

One thing that Larry forgot but is very important. Silk has a grain to it. You want the grain going span wise,from the center to the tip if you go the other way it will dip between the ribs really bad.If you look at the silk you can see the main direction of the thread.Pull the wrinkles out cord wise just so the wrinkle is gone, Then do the span as tight as possible.

Gordy

When the man is right, he is right. Thanks Gordy! Howz the kid?

Larry,

Cassidy has 12 or so flights on her little wizzard. And thanks again for sending the engine.It runs great.

Gordy