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Fox 40 break-in

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glenwearden · Oct 07, 2004 09:41 AM

#0 source
This sort of goes along with the thread on fuel for Fox 35's. I recently bought a new Fox 40 (the one with the square venturi housing), and I've been looking for good break-in fuel. At a hobby shop in Houston, I found some Powermaster labeled "FAI, 80/20", and it was all castor. Question: Does this mean that the fuel has 20%, all castor, oil, but no nitro? I didn't get a good answer out of the hobby shop guy. I've got a gallon of Powermaster 10% nitro, 22% oil(castor/synthetic, but I don't know the %'s). Can I use that for break-in, at least initially when I'm running the motor real wet?
Seems like a nice engine, and I want to insure its future.
Thanks!!
Glen

Glen Wearden

jehold66203 · Oct 07, 2004 09:47 AM

#1 source
You will not find nitro in true FAI fuel. Later, DOC

shholt · Oct 07, 2004 10:05 AM

#2 source
I believe these engines came in both iron piston and ABC versions as well as with bushing or ball bearing shafts. This makes a difference in break-in procedue as well a fuel. Do you know which version you have?
Steve
The older I get, the better I used to fly!

glenwearden · Oct 07, 2004 10:16 AM

#3 source
It's the iron piston with crankshart bushing.
Glen

Glen Wearden

Pat Mackenzie · Oct 09, 2004 09:42 AM

#10 source
>You will not find nitro in true FAI fuel. Later, DOC
Partially true.
A can of Fuel labeled "FAI" probably means "No Nitro".
It might not mean 20% castor. Might not contain castor at all.
There are three FAI events that run 80 methanol/20 Castor: FF power (F1C), CL speed(F2A) and pylon (F3D?). Diesels are not restricted to 80/20 fuel.
In F2D combat we run 10/70/20 fuel. This is my "FAI fuel"
F2B stunt, C/L scale, R/C scale , R/C pattern and R/C helicopter ( did I forget anyone?) you can run whatever you want.

Pat Mackenzie

LeagueCityRalph · Oct 07, 2004 10:28 AM

#4 source
LAST EDITED ON Oct-07-04 AT 10:28 AM (CDT)
 
Hi Glen,
PowerMaster 10-22 is a good fuel base. For the Iron/Steel version Fox, add 3 oz Castor Oil to an empty quart can and top it off with the 10-22 mix. This will give you 28%+ oil and about 8.5% nitro. That's what I use for Fox .35s. Also what I use in my old OS .35S engines.

Where in Houston are you? I can't find you in the PAMPA "yellow pages".

Ralph Wenzel

glenwearden · Oct 07, 2004 10:40 AM

#6 source
Hi, Ralph:
Thanks for the info. I'll need to get some castor. I don't live in Houston, I actually live outside of Caldwell, but go to Houston pretty often to visit Daughter, Son-in-Law, and GRANDSON. I've made one flight at Scobee with my 'Twister'. Wonderful facility!
Thanks again,
Glen

Glen Wearden

tomB · Oct 07, 2004 10:37 AM

#5 source
Quick response:

1. Iron, lapped piston - run slobbering rich, 4-5 minutes at a time or longer. Continue to progress gradually with slightly leaner settings, until it can hold a steady 2 cycle. Just a guess, but probably 5-6 tanks (at 5 min. ea) is a good range to increase from slobbering rich to a slight, breaking 2 cycle. Make sure the engine completely cools between runs. Get to the point where you can lean it out without sagging - any time it sags, immediately richen up the setting. When you can lean it out with no ill effects, and it's about to pull off the test stand, it's time to put it in a plane. For a bushing engine (no ball bearings), double the tanks and runs suggested above.

2. ABC or other special, non-ferrous acronym - short runs of 2 minutes a piece. Never run it in a slobbering rich condition. A rich setting - breaking back and forth into a 2 cycle - is as rich as you should get. Again, make sure the engine completely cools between runs. A good, modern engine may take only 3 or 4 runs at this rate. However, you always take a risk that you'll get stuck into a lean run in the middle of a flight with no control. Therefore, continue to be cautious until you have a dozen flights or so.

Other points:
- Foxes always like Castor Oil, whether they're bushing, BB, or whatever. Personally, I would never run a Fox with less than 20% oil.
- FAI fuel has no nitro. If you don't use nitro during break-in, then the engine may not be broken in for higher speeds and temperatures if you use nitro later.

This works for me, unless it's a Fox 35 - then use at least 25% oil, and mulitply the times in #1 by four or more.

Tom B

glenwearden · Oct 07, 2004 10:44 AM

#7 source
Thanks, Tom.
Great instructions, and I'll use them. Is this forum great, or what?
Glen

Glen Wearden

spitfire1 · Oct 07, 2004 11:49 AM

#8 source
Glen, I have a gallon of PM 5/29. Call me. Dale

glenwearden · Oct 07, 2004 02:21 PM

#9 source
Dale, sent you an email. Thanks.
Glen

Glen Wearden

glenwearden · Oct 11, 2004 04:09 PM

#11 source
Hi, Tom:
Update:
Started the '40' for the first time, today, and ran two 5-6 minute really slobbery runs. Using some PM 5/29 that a friend sold me. I figure I should do about 4 or 5 more real sloppy runs, and then, per your instructions, I'll start to lean it out in stages. The engine didn't seem to get very hot. I hope that's OK. Only took about 5 minutes to cool down between the runs. Hope everything is normal.
If something doesn't sound right about this, let me know. Again, thanks for the advice.
Glen

Glen Wearden