Nobler ARF

okay I know there has been other posts about this one and also believe I read an article in Pampa news but what exactly is everyone doing to improve the control system etc in the Nobler ARF I believe the one I got has a larger more sutable tank as there was a note in the box saying the tank had been changed because of requests from other flyers that sent in comments to Top Flite.
I definately know the pushrod connections need conversion as I have seen unlocked clevis connectors come undone and don't want to ruin either the Brodak 40 or the Larry Foster Fox 35 I plan on using by hitting the tarmac.

...... Dont Let them Grind You Down Keep keep on flying......

The simplest solution is to email Tom Morris. He makes a drop-in replacement for the entire control system - - bellcrank/leadouts, horns and pushrods.

www.tomsbuildingservice.biz

While I've only (just barely) broken-in a Brodak .40 and not flown it yet, it feels like way too much engine for a NoblArf. I know Len and others believe there's no such thing as "too much power", I think your L&J Fox will be plenty. After all, its finished weight will be 40 oz. max, right?

I bought the Morris replacement control system for the Nobler but wouldn't exactly call it a "drop in" replacement. The Morris unit uses a post mounted bellcrank while the stock unit was bolted to a ply platform. Thus, some modifications *will* be needed.

I don't own one yet, but Tom Dixon has a good start on improvements:
http://members.tripod.com/~TomDixon/updates.htm

I have heard of others (do a search on previous threads here) keeping the bellcrank and soldering in brass tubing and washers as bushings. Also, I believe many have mentioned using 4-40 clevis's and keepers.

Seems to me it would be prudent to make the wing removable, too. Two 6-32 bolts in the rear, and a couple of 1/4" dowels in the front would do it. You would need to add a couple of plywood anchors in the wing for the dowels, but that's no more invasive than changing the bellcrank. Add a small hatch at the elevator, and you will have the ability to constantly inspect the condition of the control linkages.

Everyone says it's too light anyway. Many recommend a 2/3 to 1 flap to elevator ratio to compensate for the light weight.

Just some of the stuff I've read ...

Using an OS .40 LA with tongue muffler, and all the recomended beefing up of the nose, mine weighs just over 44 oz. I also did a bit of beefing on the tail for stooge launching, and the C/G was very close to specs.

The, Tom Morris control system is beautiful but whoever decided to call it a drop-in replacement for the nobler ARF junk must be kidding!

I must have as much experience with control systems as anyone else but it still took me several hours to get mine installed and working properly.

You'll have to modify the original mounting plate, install a top mount for the bellcrank post, open up some formers for push rod clearance and a couple of other minor details.

Was it worth it? Yes. Can you do it? Probably, depending upon how much experience you have.

If you go over to the "Hangar Flying" web site, you can find a detailed description of what StuntMaster did to get his system installed and you can always ask questions.

From bitter experiance:
1. remove entire control system (except horns, which seem ok)throw in the trash on collection day!
2. replace same. Almost anything is better. The Morris system is a work of art, but any good setup with QUALITY parts should work. The things are lighter than many profiles so it's not like we're putting massive loads on them.

Also, I had a properly broken-in Brodak in one to build engine time, and it was way too strong. That's the one that died of control failure. I'm doing another as a back-up ship for next year and I'm going to put a Merco .35 in it. Before anyone fusses, that's a D.J.Allen Merco, the ones that actually run, and this engine only has about an hour on it. I have another with a thousand plus flights----may be the blackest RED head in captivity. Still run's but won't hold a setting. Lots of buildup inside.

Any moderate power .35 or stronger .29/.30 should be great. I hear guys saying they do well with healthy .25's. They are light enough and really do fly well. EVen at 4.3 lap times with the Brodak, the one I was flying was so easy to fly on the tight maneuvers and had so much reserve turning available that it was not tricky, though I sure wouldn't suggest learning the pattern at that speed.

Good luck

what pitch prop Jeff? the B40 will turn an 11/4 and fly comfortable 5sec+ laps if needed.

Phil:
I had gone from 10/5 to 10/4, both APC's, and would have tried a 10/3 except I was pushing the 90 @ 9' field noise limit. Mine has the newer large exhaust outlet. If I were seriously pursuing that combo, I'd trya a 10/3 and restrict the muffler outlet to the old size. L.G. length would have made it very tight or impossible for an 11" prop.

Nit picking slightly, with the lighter engine load of the 10/4 the needle needed to be set a bit leaner to get the same break point as the 10/5, and the speed ended up the same. With that setup the break was instant at the first twitch of control and it came back to 4 cycle as soon as it got near horizontal again. A joy to fly if you like fast stunt. Absolutly NO windup in maneuvers. I did one flight on a 10/6 and it was even faster but with more speed variation.

What it needs is more airplane. To that end, the new Tempest is covered and about to get primer. 610", 54" span. The covered airframe, no hardware or tank, weighs 23.4 oz. I'm shooting for 45 oz flying. On the old one, I added about 4 oz from this point on in finish. That would give me about a 42-43oz weight. I'll believe THAT when I see (!) but it sure would be fun.