>Hey Dave & Brett,
>
>How about a play-by-play next week so we get a look at the
>process? Don't know about the others but I'd like to know
>about this one.
Well, guess I staved off embarassment, this time, at least.
David and I met up on Saturday. The airplane was neatly built and reasonably straight. David was running it on very short lines - well under 60, maybe as short as 57. He had also cut the rudder loose from the fin and added about 15 degrees of offset. The leadouts were way far forward. And it was rather heavy, although "power" was certainly not an issue. He flew it and it didn't, surprisingly, look obviously yawed or rolled, nor did it grossly yaw in maneuvers. His hourglass was, as he had mentioned, not great, going way back behind his head and looking somewhat out of control. I figured that it had the "kit Twister disease", where a tremendous amount of offset, with the nose dragged back to tangent with the leadouts, was masking inadequate tipweight.
Then I flew it. Amazingly, no severe problem with yaw motion, and hinging indicating too much tipweright, pretty much the opposite of what I expected. It was very hard to fly level, as well. But, and this was the key, the cable handle with very narrow spacing was resulting in extremely "lagged" response to control input. I could nurse it around the pattern, but my hourglass wound up way beyond my head, too. It was a little hinky in inside/outside and straight/corner transitions, but the controls were so soft around neutral that it was being masked somewhat by the filtering action.
I figured that the problem was misdiagnosed as a line tension problem, when in fact it was a pitch control and stability issue. So we cut the rudder off and put it back straight again, took out about 3/8-1/2 oz of tipweight, put the leadouts pretty close to the center of travel. I also got the 60' eyelet-to-eyelet lines I use on the Skyray, and a solid contact handle. When I flew it again, it was *way* too sensitive for me, and cartainly vastly more sensitive than it had been when David was flying it.
But it was much better in terms of being able to make the maneuvers the right size, and it turned *right now* as opposed to "well, OK, I'll take your input under advisement, and get back to you later" like it had been before. It also wanted to hop in corners pretty signficantly. I figured this was the result of inadequate flap motion for the heavier-than-designed-for airplane, so I took a page out of Al's "Bearcat" article and added and ounce and a half of nose weight. And also narrowed the handle spacing a bit. Flew it again, and it tracked fine, went were it was pointed, and could do consecutive hourglasses as narrow as you would reasonably want. In short, we put the airplane back more-or-less as intended, got the pitch axis right, and fixed a mechanical control compliance issue. And sold a few handles for Carl Schoup!
On this topic, the controls were fairly slow inside the airplane, and the handle was also set to very narrow spacing. The result was that you couldn't get close to full control throws with the handle set. And, the very narrow spacing greatly exacerbated the compliance issue. The wider you set the handle, the less small amounts of "give" in the cable, and the lines, effect the response. If you are going to use a cable handle, make the controls slow in the airplane, and then make up for it with a wide handle spacing. This minimized the effects of compliance. The airplane was significantly tail-heavy, presumably in an attempt to get the response back. But that didn't do much in that regard, but did make it pretty unstable, and sometimes a little "wafty" on the line tension. It was plenty enough for me, but it wouldn't inspire a lot of confidence in the less-experienced.
I'll let David put in his observations on the topic, but I think he was happy with the changes. It was *much* more solid than it was when we started, to my hand.
A few more things I would do, given some time to practice. First, get a smaller venturi and/or more nitro, to minimize the super-aggressive breaking in the maneuvers*. Work up to longer lines, maybe as much as 64 feet, and adjust the leadouts accordingly. These were good ideas yesterday, as well, but with less than 4 hours of daylight left, it was just too much to try all at once. And refine the tipweight and leadouts. It was pretty close when we stopped fiddling with it, but it takes probably a half-dozen flights to make sure the tipweight is just right so that it "flows" through corners. If it was mine, I would also cut the fin off entirely, and put a new one on, straight, and with no airfoil, and the rudder hinged for fine adjustment purposes.
Pretty prosaic stuff, but simple things generally work out well.
Brett
*yes, you could drop the nitro and throw in some head shims, but that kills the overall "power" too much for my tastes.And this airplane is fairly heavy. A smaller venturi and enough nitro to get the "power" back would be much more effective.