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Nylon hinges

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 6 of 6 known posts recovered

Crash2much · Oct 11, 2004 08:01 PM

#0 source
Is it still the accepted practice to secure these hinges with toothpicks after placing them? With the use of CA glue is this still neccessary? I have been using cloth hinges for so many years that this will be a new adventure.

Bill

I build more planes than I fly, collect more kits than I build. That about says it, right?

Hemlock · Oct 11, 2004 08:56 PM

#1 source
Be very careful if you are using the dubro style hinges with the metal pin through them when using CA glue. It is a major bummer if you glue the hinge in and find out that you not only glued the hinge to the wood but also locked the hinge solid on the pin! I have had this happen a few times and discoverd that it is a lot less work to use a tightbond type wood glue, then running the risk of locking the hinge and having to spend several hours removing the hinge if possible or replacing the part completely in some cases.

Robert

Max1998 · Oct 11, 2004 09:20 PM

#2 source
Hello I have never had a nylon pinned hinge come loose in a surface and I have never tooth picked them either.I have also never used CA glue on a nylon hinge.I only put nylon hinges in with epoxy and I also scuff the flt surfaces with a coarse sand paper block before inserting with glue.

Dennis Pedersen

GLBahrman · Oct 11, 2004 10:01 PM

#3 source
LAST EDITED ON Oct-11-04 AT 10:38 PM (CDT)
 
>Hello I have never had a nylon pinned hinge come loose in a
>surface and I have never tooth picked them either.I have
>also never used CA glue on a nylon hinge.I only put nylon
>hinges in with epoxy and I also scuff the flt surfaces with
>a coarse sand paper block before inserting with epoxy.
Bill,
I do all of the above. Some builders recommend you warm Vaseoline and put it on the hinge pins. I found that to be to messy etc. I just put a little drop of 3-in-one oil at one end of the hinge and then work it back and forth and watch the oil go down the pin by capillary action (slick).
1. First sand the hinge to roughen it up. All four surfaces. Do all the hinges and a couple extra.
2. Oil the pin as mentioned above.
3. Clean all the flat surfaces with alcohol.
4. I work epoxy into the hinge slots with a piece of thin ply the same size and thickness as the hinge.
5. Insert the hinge and check all the hinges to be sure the pins are parallel to the trailing edge and on the same centerline.

P.S. I do one side of the wing at a time. As its setting up I check each hinge to make sure it remains free. Keep Q-tips and alcohol close by if you have a problem and to clean things up. If you get one with epoxy in it don't even mess with it just pull it out and toss it. You can come back to installing a new one when you do the other side of the wing. or at a later time. The problem arises when you try to save it. B.S. toss it.

EDIT: Be careful: do not push to much epoxy in the slot. You don't want epoxy dripping on the inside on your silkspan because it will show from the outside. Ask me how I know!!! Most hinges have holes in them that the epoxy flows into making the toothpicks not necessary. Although some still do it.

Greg L. Bahrman

Sparky12366 · Oct 11, 2004 10:47 PM

#4 source
LAST EDITED ON Oct-11-04 AT 10:48 PM (CDT)
 
>>Hello I have never had a nylon pinned hinge come loose in a
>>surface and I have never tooth picked them either.I have
>>also never used CA glue on a nylon hinge.I only put nylon
>>hinges in with epoxy and I also scuff the flt surfaces with
>>a coarse sand paper block before inserting with epoxy.
>Bill,
>I do all of the above. Some builders recommend you warm
>Vaseoline and put it on the hinge pins. I found that to be
>to messy etc. I just put a little drop of 3-in-one oil at
>one end of the hinge and then work it back and forth and
>watch the oil go down the pin by capillary action (slick).
>1. First sand the hinge to roughen it up. All four surfaces.
>Do all the hinges and a couple extra.
>2. Oil the pin as mentioned above.
>3. Clean all the flat surfaces with alcohol.
>4. I work epoxy into the hinge slots with a piece of thin
>ply the same size and thickness as the hinge.
>5. Insert the hinge and check all the hinges to be sure the
>pins are parallel to the trailing edge and on the same
>centerline.
>
>P.S. I do one side of the wing at a time. As its setting up
>I check each hinge to make sure it remains free. Keep Q-tips
>and alcohol close by if you have a problem and to clean
>things up. If you get one with epoxy in it don't even mess
>with it just pull it out and toss it. You can come back to
>installing a new one when you do the other side of the wing.
>or at a later time. The problem arises when you try to save
>it. B.S. toss it.
>
>EDIT: Be careful: do not push to much epoxy in the slot. You
>don't want epoxy dripping on the inside on your silkspan
>because it will show from the outside. Ask me how I know!!!
>Most hinges have holes in them that the epoxy flows into
>making the toothpicks not necessary. Although some still do
>it.

I do the same thing as Greg except I use Tightbond glue. It won't pull out.

Robert Storick
AMA 12366
Saint Louis,MO.

Crash2much · Oct 11, 2004 10:49 PM

#5 source
Thankyou to everybody! Sounds like good advice all the way around.

Bill

I build more planes than I fly, collect more kits than I build. That about says it, right?