Stuka Stunt Control Line Forum
Archive, 2000–2021 · recovered from the Internet Archive
Forums › Stuka Stunt Main Forum

Monokote over Monokote

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 5 of 5 known posts recovered

StuntDuster · Oct 13, 2004 03:13 PM

#0 source
I've heard of a technique to apply monokote trim over monokote using the "Windex Method". I have not tried this method and I'm curious if it really works. I think you spray the Windex (with ammonia) to the base monokote. Position the trim monokote and squeegee out the excess and any air bubbles. Let dry and tack down the edges with an iron. Supposedly you get perfect trim with no air bubbles. Has anyone heard of this technique?

--Stephen

tperry2054 · Oct 13, 2004 03:22 PM

#1 source
You can use the search function here to find more on this. Here's a recent thread that may help:

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/DCForumID1/8960.html

Tight lines,

Tom

dirtydan · Oct 14, 2004 03:20 PM

#2 source
Stephen,

Some of my RC Pattern buddies use and like this method, although I have never tried it. Ought to be real easy to experiment with scraps and on an old model.

Carl Shoup has a really good video on how he adds film trim to a film base, and I've got a review of it over in Product Review section.

For what it's worth, I'll be switching to Carl's techniques.

Dan

tomB · Oct 14, 2004 05:15 PM

#3 source
I've done it, and do it as standard procedure every time - just like using the iron. A light mist is all you need. You get two birds with one, too - it helps to "tack" the trim in position instead of sliding off like peas on a knife.

I don't know about tacking the edges, though - I always worked from the center out. Tacking the edges will promote more bubbles that can't get out. The iron turns the Windex to steam as you apply heat. The steam is vaporized, leaving no air to form a bubble. I think Windex has just the right formulation to keep it from leaving a residue, and it's in everybody's kitchen.

Proper temperature is important to keep from bleeding the edges, and a sock on the iron is basic. Small graphics can be printed on your computer printer, then use rubber cement on the back to stick it to the monokote. Get out your best paper doll scissors, and go to work. The small graphics (like the monokoted "Super Sportster" on the tail) can be ironed on with the paper still on. pull the paper off, and rub off any rubber cement that got stuck to the monokote.

Here's an RC job I did:
[photo not recovered: ssportster.jpg]

Tom B

builditright · Oct 14, 2004 06:25 PM

#4 source
LAST EDITED ON Oct-14-04 AT 06:41 PM (CDT)
 
I've heard of a technique to apply monokote trim over monokote using the "Windex Method". I have not tried this method and I'm curious if it really works. I think you spray the Windex (with ammonia) to the base monokote. Position the trim monokote and squeegee out the excess and any air bubbles. Let dry and tack down the edges with an iron. Supposedly you get perfect trim with no air bubbles. Has anyone heard of this technique?
--Stephen

>I've done it, and do it as standard procedure every time -
>just like using the iron. A light mist is all you need.
>You get two birds with one, too - it helps to "tack" the
>trim in position instead of sliding off like peas on a
>knife.
>
>I don't know about tacking the edges, though - I always
>worked from the center out. Tacking the edges will
>promote more bubbles that can't get out. The iron
>turns the Windex to steam as you apply heat. The steam is
>vaporized, leaving no air to form a bubble. I think Windex
>has just the right formulation to keep it from leaving a
>residue, and it's in everybody's kitchen.
>
>Proper temperature is important to keep from bleeding the
>edges, and a sock on the iron is basic. Small graphics can
>be printed on your computer printer, then use rubber cement
>on the back to stick it to the monokote. Get out your best
>paper doll scissors, and go to work. The small graphics
>(like the monokoted "Super Sportster" on the tail) can be
>ironed on with the paper still on. pull the paper off, and
>rub off any rubber cement that got stuck to the monokote.
>
>Here's an RC job I did:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi guys

the Windex method works great On either Monokote Trim to Monokote or Monokte to Monokte you may want to leave it dry/evaporate for a few days before sealing the edges.

On most Monokoted finishes I like to seal the edges using an automotive pinstripe.

check out some multiple color jobs
Photo 3,4 & 5 do not have pinstripe.

The Stiletto has a total of 9 colors(counting the letters & pinstripe) and all are trimmed with pinstripe

Thank You and God Bless
Walter Umland
aka / builditright
you can also e-mail me at [email protected]