Polyspan Critique

Hello everyone!,

I very generous buddy recently gave me a pack of polyspan. I'm considering it for a Brodak Buster that's "in the jig" now.

And,if its good stuff I've a number of birds lined up for the building season....somehow, just I can't bring myself to put shiney plastic film on a stunt ship...there's always that interface with the dope or paint thing...I'd rather have a "seamless airplane".

Tom Morris sells the same (or similar) material, a heat shrink polyester. So, it is still available.

I'd like to open a thread here, on pro's and cons, application, finishing and repair using the stuff.

Thanks, as always, for your input guys!

Nitro (and dope) Fumes!!.....Hib

http://www.modelresearchlabs.com

All questions can be answered here

Scott(use the stuff) Riese

I like polyspan (or its equivalent). It is a little difficult to maneuver around wing tips and it does fuzz up a bit, but overall it is a great product.

The wingtip issue can be addressed by taking your time and stretching gently. I suggest doing the tips all by themselves for your first airplane. The fuzz up goes away as you apply dope and gently sand it away.

The shrinking, sealing, and weight qualities are great.

I have also taken to using polyspan for hinges. Using the old over and under method, with 1.5 in strips, I get a completely gapless hinge line. The polyspan is so thin that it is easily blended into the rest of the finish. NOTE - You must be certain that the grain runs perpendicular to the hinge line!

Have fun - Ed (use the stuff) Culver

I have used Polyspan with varying degrees of sucess, and while it does not work well on wingtips, it's OK on the rest.

There is a product on the market now that works much better. It looks like Polyspan, but it is non-directional, so grain is not a problem. This makes it easier for it to confirm to wingtips. In short, it is what you always wanted Polyspan to be.

The product is called Thermalspan and can be bought from:
Harris Design
2000 NW 84th Ave.
Ankeny, IA 50021
(515)965-5942

It comes in two sizes. 14"x16' and 23"x10'. Each size is $10, plus $3 s&h for 1-3 packages.

Try it, you'll like it.

Mrwhiskers & Hib
I just finished covering a Ringmaster with the Thermal Span form Harris Design and agree it is better than Polyspan. It is much stronger and goes around wing tips a little easier. Sadly, we lost Ed Harris about a month ago while he was out flying slope gliders. I knew him for over 20 years and he will be surely missed as a modeler and a friend. His wife June is trying to fill any backorders and continue with the sales of Thermal Span.

This is a great product.

Could you be more specific? Does it comes in color, can it be painted, clear,gloss, etc? Thanks.

I have used it and other than not wanting to go around tips very well, I like it. Reminds me of silk as to texture and weight, but much stronger. There is a shiney side, top, and a bottom side, rough texture, to this stuff. If you sand it too soon, ie, before getting two coats of dope on it, it will fuzz up. I have four cats, fuzz I don't need:-). It goes on dry, it's water proof, pull it as tight as you can and then heat shrink it. But, be carefull, it gets tight quick and the first three bays I did, I caused runs in it from the heat. They cover ok, but they did cause me a little worry. The fourth bay went of perfect. Any new technique will have its learning curve, mine was steep thankfully. Any droop or minor wrinkles will pull out after the dope has dried. It seems to take less than silk. I used it on my Cardinal and sprayed a very and I do mean very thin coat of Brodaks white primer on the open bays. I sanded this after three days drying time, using 3M sanding pads. I used the fine grade. I have ordered more and will continue to use it on modern and classic planes.

I've used Polyspan on several planes, and swear by it. It is easy to use and incredibly strong. It doesn't have to be wetted like silkspan; just put it where you need it, dope it on (I always use nitrate for this), and let it dry. You shouldn't have any wrinkles to deal with, and if you do, just hit it with a heat gun and they are gone. The tips can be tricky, but patience usually wins out.

As far as having a hangup about putting a 'shiny plastic covering' on, get over it! This stuff is jsut too easy to argue with.

Good luck, Steve

LAST EDITED ON Dec-10-01 AT 04:00 PM (CST)

Mr. Moon,

Thanks for the words on the material, but, perhaps you misread. My noting "shiney plastic film" is a vailed reference to Monokote (etc.).

I don't see ANY argument with shiney iron-on plastic films and a high quality fine crafted doped finish over any 'span, silk or paper. My "preferrence" is for the dope job.

There is NO HANGUP here, rather, as a professional sculpure and
craftsman since 1973, I have developed a personal aesthetic and appreciation for that which is executed with integrity and a high level of facility.

Sorry but, I must reject your bit of advice ...... I won't be "getting over it" any time soon. A mindfull sense of "discernability" is all too important, and too hard won, to be tossed off with a tired cliche'.

Nitro Fumes!........Hib

Wha'd he say?

Think he likes glad wrap to tin foil!