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Line Ends

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 14 of 14 known posts recovered

jehold66203 · Oct 20, 2004 11:43 PM

#0 source
Just seen the thread on a tool for wrapping line ends. While at the Denver contest over Labor Day weekend, Carl Shoup showed me his line ends. If Carl sees this or somebody knows where I would like to get the swagging tool as well as the tubes used. It looks compact and he showed me with a jewelers loup one of the ends off of a plane. He does fly some high powered machines on this with no failures. Thanks ahead of time, DOC

Iskandar Taib · Oct 21, 2004 12:11 AM

#1 source
Nicopress?

Carl Shoup · Oct 21, 2004 01:43 AM

edited#2 source
I made a swage tool so I could do a better job of making up my lines I watched a cable company make up some lifting cables and all they did was run the cable through the sleave two times and swage the sleave down around the cable and they told me that the cable will break before the sleave will slip so I did a lot of tests and found out that on .015 cable only through the tubbing two times, you could use a sleave only .250" long .0625" copper tubbing and the cable will break and the sleave will not slip I use 3/32 copper for .015"-.027" cable and I have flown airplanes up to 69 oz as fast as 4.5 seconds on 70' lines center to center and I have never had a line break. I also hook the ends of the lines on the inside of the line reels.

CircleJerk · Oct 21, 2004 05:39 AM

edited#3 source
Well done. The bell end prevents a stress point which usually accounts for the failure of a crimped line.

Ben

Edit - Spelling!

gcb · Oct 21, 2004 06:01 AM

edited#4 source
Guess you couldn't beat it with a swagger stick, huh?

Ooooh...sorry...couldn't resist.

Looks like your modified needle nose do a great job.

George

Edit: Sorry, the answer was already there.

jehold66203 · Oct 21, 2004 08:58 AM

#5 source
I want to thank you Carl. We need more stuff like this instead of what is going right now. Later, DOC:+

ferocious · Oct 21, 2004 01:56 PM

#6 source
Nice work Carl. I've had similar results now, using steel swage fittings from fishing supplies.

I've been wrapping both sides of the loop out and around the tube to securely lock the loop from slipping. I'll have to try the tube crushing idea. It will make the final termination smaller diameter and neater.

Old Sourdough · Oct 21, 2004 05:18 PM

#7 source
Carl wrote:

"...I did a lot of tests and found out that on .015 cable only through the tubbing two times, you could use a sleave only .025" long .0625" copper tubbing and the cable will break..."
======================================================================
Carl,

I think the sleeve length you describe (0.025") is not an adequate length nor it that figure consistent with your pictures. 0.025"=1/40th inch. Perhaps you meant 0.250" (1/4"), although that seems a bit short as well, again judging from your pictures.

As your swaged connections look good, this message is not a criticism. It is only to clear up a bit of confusion for me.

Swordsman18 · Oct 21, 2004 07:53 PM

edited#9 source
>Carl wrote:
>
>"...I did a lot of tests and found out that on .015 cable
>only through the tubbing two times, you could use a sleave
>only .025" long .0625" copper tubbing and the cable will
>break..."
>======================================================================
>Carl,
>
>I think the sleeve length you describe (0.025") is not an
>adequate length nor it that figure consistent with your
>pictures. 0.025"=1/40th inch. Perhaps you meant 0.250"
>(1/4"), although that seems a bit short as well, again
>judging from your pictures.
>
>As your swaged connections look good, this message is not a
>criticism. It is only to clear up a bit of confusion for
>me.

Copied from Carl's message:

"I did a lot of tests and found out that on .015 cable only through the tubbing two times, you could use a sleave only .250" long .0625" copper tubbing and the cable will break and the sleave will not slip"

So somehow I think you misread .250" as .0250". He did indeed mean 0.250", since that's what he said. Perhaps he edited the message to correct this, but as it stands Carl's .250" dimension seems fine...
If you copied his message verbatim, then clearly he corrected his mistake.

Andy

Edit: Carl's correction showed up just after I wrote this...

LessGravity · Oct 21, 2004 08:39 PM

#10 source
great looking cimps. what diameter hole did you drill in your swage pliers ?

Carl Shoup · Oct 21, 2004 07:50 PM

#8 source
Sorry about the .025" it should have said .250" it was used in testing only to see how little tubbing is needed. I use 3/32 copper tubbing 1/2 long for my lines and leadouts.

Carl Shoup · Oct 21, 2004 09:33 PM

edited#11 source
I use a 3/32 carbide cutter.I only cut about a 1/4 of the cutter diamater in to the each half of the plyers.

jehold66203 · Oct 21, 2004 11:41 PM

#12 source
Carl: Just came up from downstairs. I went to the hardware store and got the 3/32 copper tubing. Not being a machinist I grabbed the old Dremel and started grinding on the needlw nose. First one didn't look right. So I ground a little deeper on the pliers. The second one looks a lot better. Will put the crucial test on the test line I made. It is 27 thousanth cable. Really I did pass typing 1 in high school. Thanks again for the info and the pictures. DOC

jehold66203 · Oct 22, 2004 01:17 PM

#13 source
Have done preliminary test on the test line I made. Using 1/2 inch long tubing. Need to find better clips as I have straightened out two so far. Line has not slipped or broken. Was well over 60 pounds. Don't use large Perfect slide clips. Really I know better, but, who can hang on to a plane that will pull 60 pound whild flying? My Class 2 Navy Carrier doesn't even come close even tho I have to pull test over 80 pounds. Thanks again, DOC