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New ARC from Brodak

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 19 of 19 known posts recovered

V12 · Oct 21, 2004 12:49 PM

#0 source
I am developing the new ARC Smoothie. It should be ready to fly in a few days. Overall so far, it's an excellent plane. It's OTS legal and, as shown, weighs 25 ounces with the tank.
As luck would have it, I came across a new Veco .35, the same as Mr Palmer used in the original. I will break it in and put it in the ARC.
Anyone interested in more information?

Bob Z

Steven Yampolsky · Oct 21, 2004 01:25 PM

#1 source
My I suggest using an engine that's easily available today? Chances of everyone who buys the Smoothie also have a Veco engone are slim to none. How about something like OS 25LA or a Saito 30S?


Steven Yampolsky

Remember, you really only need two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use the WD-40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use the duct tape

V12 · Oct 21, 2004 01:40 PM

#2 source
Hi, Steve - The Veco would only be installed for fun. I have a Brodak .40 that will probaly be used for the real evaluation.
Regarding the LA .25 - although I admire the series, I just don't believe in downsizing that much. It's just my preference but I like to use the size engine that it was designed around, 'specially the old time stuff. Also, I anticipate needing the weight up front for balance.
That other engine you mentioned - SAITO? I'm not familiar with it - can you elaborate?
Bob

Bill Little · Oct 21, 2004 02:17 PM

#3 source
Hi Bob,
Did you find an old "K&B Allyn built" Veco 35 with the "wrong side exhaust"?
When I rebuilt my Smoothie (after 40 years) I put one of those in it.
Nice wet 2 run.
Bill <><


When the character of a man is not clear to you, look at his friends.
Japanese Proverb

V12 · Oct 21, 2004 02:28 PM

#4 source
Hi, Bill - I'm not sure of the model - it has a 3-bolt backplate and a tiny, inboard facing exhaust stack. It also has an interesting glow plug - white ceramic insulator. I came across a .29 also - they both have to be broken in.
George Aldrich told me that he used one of these in his first Nobler.
Bob Z.

Bill Little · Oct 21, 2004 02:31 PM

#6 source
Hi Bob,
That's the one I'm talking about! Mine is a very good runner.
They look nearly identical to the Torpedos of the same period and, IIRC, were made by Allyn.
Bill <><

When the character of a man is not clear to you, look at his friends.
Japanese Proverb

fly123 · Oct 21, 2004 02:30 PM

#5 source
What happened to the "wrap-around windscreen?" Was that a later version only? It is probably harder to install, but is one feature that I really associated with a SMOOTHIE, and wouldn't build one without it!

Dave
LA_Flyer

dhutch · Oct 21, 2004 02:35 PM

#7 source
Is the glow plug a Champion VG-2? Has a small wire "idle bar" if very old, A more conventional one if later version. These were very good glow plugs back in the forties, probably still good ones.

Don

V12 · Oct 21, 2004 03:39 PM

#8 source
Hi, Don - I assume it's a Veco plug. I do so because I have a NIB Veco 29R that has the same plug. It came with it.
Make sense.
Bob

Bigiron13 · Oct 21, 2004 03:50 PM

#9 source
If it is not a Champion, then it is an old Veco Ceramic. I have two of them in my "Junk Box". (NIB) I did have three of them but recently gave one to a collector. (He drooled all over my collection of plugs). I needed some parts that he had and so we reached a mutual trade. Have some Fury plugs with the "Miracle W Element" and some Johnson plugs. I have one Champion Sparkplug that is Gold plated, along with a carton of short reach Champion Glow plugs.

Bigiron

Dr Spark · Oct 21, 2004 04:15 PM

#10 source
Bob's SMOOTHIE is an impressive model. I watched Bob fly his in Los Angeles in 1951. I'm pretty sure he used a Veco 29, set up to run so rich 4-cycle that I didn't think it would keep running. But it did, and he won (I was flying in Senior, so I didn't have to compete with Palmer).

Floyd

Tim McTigue · Oct 21, 2004 04:22 PM

edited#11 source
"What happened to the "wrap-around windscreen?" Was that a later version only? It is probably harder to install, but is one feature that I really associated with a SMOOTHIE, and wouldn't build one without it!
Dave
LA_Flyer"

The Brodak version comes with the canopy shown... you have to paint the canopy itself to get the "wrap-around" look...

Steve Fitton · Oct 21, 2004 05:27 PM

#12 source
>"What happened to the "wrap-around windscreen?" Was that
>a later version only? It is probably harder to install, but
>is one feature that I really associated with a SMOOTHIE, and
>wouldn't build one without it!
>Dave
>LA_Flyer"

>
>The Brodak version comes with the canopy shown... you have
>to paint the canopy itself to get the "wrap-around" look...

I asked Bob himself this question at Brodaks a few years ago, when the original kit prototypes were displayed in the shop. Actually, he volunteered the info as I was looking at the model. He said the old way was a pain, and that he had requested it be done with a painted bubble canopy to make it easier for the new kit. If I recall correctly, he also mentioned that the celluoid wrap around style was more vunerable to breakage of the overhanging balsa piece, and less likely to have a glue joint let go and let all sorts of junk into the cockpit and smear up the inside of the canopy.


Steve

Steven Yampolsky · Oct 21, 2004 06:41 PM

#14 source
Saito 30S is a 4-stroke engine that weighs roughly 9.5 oz. I've seen Dave Cook fly one of his OT planes with it and it was just a great engine.

Steven Yampolsky

Remember, you really only need two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use the WD-40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use the duct tape

Old Sourdough · Oct 21, 2004 06:07 PM

#13 source
Hey, Z-man,

For those of us familiar with the Veco version, how difficult would it be to modify the engine mounts for an inverted engine? (I know, I know! Here we go again, wanting to "modify" an ARF/ARC to death!)

V12 · Oct 22, 2004 08:29 AM

#15 source
Hi, O.S. The task you request would be a bit difficult but it can be done.
Remember, the fuselage bottom on the ARC is enclosed, so you must open it up. Then, with top and bottom open, you would have to saw out the mounts, gouging and "Dremeling" away the remnants. Then, you would cut out new slots in the firewalls to raise the mounts (Remember, you want to maintain engine centerline as original). Glue in the new mounts such that the engine centerline is as before - you can use the installed nose ring for location. And, by all means, you must insure that the thrust line is aligned as before.
Once all that is done, you can glue on the orgiginal top block or make a new one to blend with the nose ring. Finally, build and shape a new bottom block/engine cover.
Sounds like an evening's work!!
Or, you could commit an unnatural act - leave it stock!!
In any case, have fun - I do not know when the model will be available. I have to create some engineering drawings to document the changes and send them to China.
Bob Z.

V12 · Oct 22, 2004 08:55 AM

#16 source
Don, Bill, Marvin - this is the engine I will use. Looks like the cylinder fins are separate from the case.
You can see the plug I was writing about earlier.
Any idea what year this engine was manufactured?
Bob Z.

elmores · Oct 22, 2004 09:18 AM

#17 source

Tony

Bigiron13 · Oct 22, 2004 09:32 AM

#18 source
All I can tell you is that it hasd a Veco Ceramic plug.

Bigiron