Stuka Stunt Control Line Forum
Archive, 2000–2021 · recovered from the Internet Archive
Forums › Stuka Stunt Main Forum

fuel

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 13 of 13 known posts recovered

Old_Harley Man · Oct 25, 2004 11:18 PM

#0 source
Hi All....Anybody have a formula for a good "sport" fuel.... I mixed up a batch a few years ago and it worked very well and cost about half what I could buy it for....It had a couple of other ingredients besides methanol, castor oil and nitro methane but I can't remember what they were and I've lost the formula.

Tnx, Mike, the "Old Harley Man" [email protected]

"As a young man I started with nothing and still have most of it"

LeagueCityRalph · Oct 25, 2004 11:31 PM

#1 source
Hi Mike,
I just had a couple of gallons of "Fox .35" fuel mixed up today by Randy Ritch. 15% Nitro, 28% Castor, 1% Klotz, as recommended by Larry Foster for his "Hi Zoot" Fox .35s. $10.85 per gallon.

This would be a pretty good sport fuel for any lapped-piston plain-bearing engine. His price was $10.85/gallon. And the price would be tough to beat anywhere. Shipping would add to your cost, of course.

PowerMaster makes good fuel, too, and it's widely available in various formulations. SIG makes good fuel, also, and is available in many hobby shops. The main thing is to make certain that the fuel contains enough Castor Oil for old Fox/McCoy/K&B engines.

Ralph Wenzel

Old_Harley Man · Oct 25, 2004 11:49 PM

#2 source
Hi Ralph...I was looking for a formula so I could mix my own fuel. I did it a few years ago but have since lost the formula.

Tnx, Mike, the "Old Harley Man" [email protected]

"As a young man I started with nothing and still have most of it"

LNeumann · Oct 26, 2004 12:14 AM

#3 source
The only other ingredients I can see to add are maybe 2% lubricin to help the castor and polypropolene oxide, but the latter is now on the carcinogin list and I would not recommend it. Mostly it is being banned.

You could run a 50-50 blend of castor and synthetic of you are using ABC type engines or some of the ringed engines, and here I would recommend about 22% total oil.

All in all your cost savings are going to be mostly in shipping, and if you have to ship the nitro you may be just as well off to have it mixed for you. If you are willing to get 6 cases or more (we usually get about 10 cases at a time) it is cheaper to ship by truck than UPS with their hazmat charge.

Leonard Neumann

Old_Harley Man · Oct 26, 2004 01:00 AM

#4 source
Hi Leonard....The other two ingredients were to reduce or prevent foaming and an ignition enhancer....When I mixed the fuel I was living in a metropolitan area where all the ingredients where readily available. Might not be worth the trouble now... I can't use 24 gals...was only going to mix up a 5 gallon batch....Nuts! It seems like nothing is ever easy anymore...

Tnx, Mike, the "Old Harley Man" [email protected]

"As a young man I started with nothing and still have most of it"

LNeumann · Oct 26, 2004 08:24 AM

#5 source
>Hi Leonard....The other two ingredients were to reduce or
>prevent foaming and an ignition enhancer....When I mixed the
>fuel I was living in a metropolitan area where all the
>ingredients where readily available. Might not be worth the
>trouble now... I can't use 24 gals...was only going to mix
>up a 5 gallon batch....Nuts! It seems like nothing is ever
>easy anymore...

The propolene Oxide was probably the ignition enhancer. That's a bad guy now. A defoamer is defnitely a good idea and I thought of that as soon as I posted the last post. Even with the commercial fuel you sometimes need to (or should) add a couple of drops of defoamer. I remember when I used to get my fuel mixed at Red Max (which I no longer do due to their poor castor) they would normally add one drop to a gallon and I would have them add two. But two drops of Armor-All will usually do the trick. Do not add squirts, ou are adding water into the mix. We have it in a little drop applicator bottle. One 2 ounce bottle is probably a life-time supply, even with the amount of fuel we use.

You are right about nothing being easy. If you don't have a local hobby shop who can order what you need, you can go to a mail order supplier, and some of these will mix exactly what you want. We get ours from Rich's Brew and he will mix it exactly the way we want it. Buy it in a case of four gallons and pay the hazmat charge. Some places will sell it in quart bottles to avoid the hazmat charge, but, would you believe, the additional cost of packaging it that way more than exceeds the hazmat cost savings. Compute your total cost on the basis of the amount of product you are receiving and the total cost of shipping. You will see.

Leonard Neumann

Fred Krueger · Oct 26, 2004 09:57 AM

#8 source
I use 1/2% ether as an ignition inhancer. I sport fly with diesels so I always have diesel fuel ingredients around. I seems to help,
plus the competion falls asleep!

Your mentioning Red Max's poor castor oil made me recall a recent experience. I purchased fuel (normal SIG Champion, 20% 1/2 castor, 1/2 synth) at SIG for the Oct. 3rd Jerry 'WHO' Memorial sport race. We run Fox 35s so Glenn Lee added castor oil, from a pristine can of 'Francisco' castor oil, to each gallon of SIG fuel . This had to be 1960's vintage oil. The castor oil was CRYTAL CLEAR! I have never seen castor oil that clear, except perhaps medicinal grade.

Fred

Too many airplanes - too little time.

glenwearden · Oct 26, 2004 09:45 AM

#7 source
Last Saturday, I ran PM 10/22 with the 50/50 oil blend in my OS46 RC engine. I had some trouble with idle and had to make two "dead-stick" landings. I took it home and replaced my OS A3 plug with an A8. That seemed to solve the idle problem. It also helped at wide open, so we who run OS 40's & 46's for CL might need a fairly hot plug for high oil content fuel.
Glen

Glen Wearden

Steven Yampolsky · Oct 26, 2004 08:45 AM

#6 source
Some folks add 1% acetone to keep gook build up on the engine.

www.control-line.org has fuel mixing spreadsheet that may be of help to you. It's in the documents section.

Click Here to get fuel mixing spreadsheet

Steven Yampolsky

Remember, you really only need two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use the WD-40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use the duct tape

dirtydan · Oct 26, 2004 01:41 PM

#9 source
Mike,

VP Racing Fuels has a distributor in Spokane. I generally have competition-oriented motorcycle shops order nitromenthane and sometimes methanol along with race gas for the bikes.

Shipping can be a killer, but if they incorporate my needs into a gasoline order, it's manageable.

You might want to simply drive on over and buy it direct. Or not...

Wait, there's a drag strip in the Tri-Cities now, right? There ya go, start calling speed shops.

Incidentally, somebody listed PAMPA members in your area, this including my father Dean Rutherford. Dad no longer flies CL models.

Dan

wright45 · Oct 26, 2004 03:25 PM

#10 source
I got some propelene oxide for the Jet Speed flyers recently. I had to store the jug in an ice bath overnight because it was bulging so much. It has a high vapor pressure and evaporates real fast when you open the can. Over $40/gal. Maybe for speed if you add it just before you fuel the plane, but not for sport or stunt.

John Wright

Giffy · Oct 26, 2004 08:41 PM

#11 source
For max power you need 1% propylene oxide for every 10% nitro but, you don't need any untill you get up to about 40% nitro.

70% nitro,10% propylene oxide and 20% 62RM is the hottest fuel you can mix and, makes a great 1/2a fuel.


Giffy

Al Rabe · Oct 26, 2004 09:55 PM

#12 source
Mike,

I have flown hundreds of gallons of home mixed fuel, not only to practice, but for competition as well including the World Championship where I took my own home brew.

Mix equal parts of castor, synthetic (Klots), and Nitro. This mixture I called "concentrate". It is a 10% nitro, 20% oil mixture. To mix fuel put 36 ozs of concentrate in a gallon container and top off with methanol. I tried prop, lubricin and other additives but consider all of them unnecessary. All you need for good fuel is oil, nitro and methanol.

Al