Gary Weaver
F-Twister photos
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 25 of 25 known posts recovered
phantomflier · Oct 29, 2004 09:34 PM
#1 sourceNice work.
Round the nose as you have done the aft of the fuselage cover with fiberglass and epoxy, will look better, add strength, and weight. Move the engine as far forward as you can before cutting holes in the stab. If you still need weight an APC prop will weigh about 1 to 1.2 oz more than the wood prop.
With the longer tail moment you should be able to use a little more rearward CG which will save a few grams more.
Let us see the final results.
Carl
Very nice!!! I hope to start one this winter. So far I am winning one on ebay. I hope folks don't get clicker happy.
Can you email me a close up picture of how you attached the engine to the pads? Are they tapped?
Thanks
Paul
I am a retread, - I did C/L in my youth and did not know what I was doing then other then having fun. And not much has changed.
Why not cut the tips off and hollow then with a ball cutter, attached to a D-tool?. You can hollow the tips out till you can see light through them, w/o hurting anything.
Is your center sheeting overhanging the ribs? If so, sand it flush and save a few grams!
Also, round off the TE and flap tips to match the shape of the wing tip.
It looks as if you still have a BUNCH of sanding to do! If you're tail heavy now, every gram shaved off will help later.
You could also save some weight (More than you might think.) by cutting away the center of the fuse blank and, after adding a few ribs, sheeting it with 1/16th balsa or 164 ply. That will also stiffen up your fuselage a lot.
Check out "Building a better profile" On the PAMPA web site for more details.
BIGS
PS: Did you weigh your wood before starting this project? Sounds like substandard materials to me but maybe you started with too short a nose for that engine. You could allways swap to something a bit heavier.
>Very nice!!! I hope to start one this winter. So far I am
>winning one on ebay.
Sorry I ran the price up a few dollars. I bid $25.00 on that twister kit when it was first listed. I bid $25.00 on every twister kit I see haven't won one yet. Thats okay I only got about $10.00 worth of wood in this scratch built airplane so far.
>I hope folks don't get clicker happy.
>Can you email me a close up picture of how you attached the
>engine to the pads? Are they tapped?
The engine is attached to aluminum plates. The aluminum plates are 1/4" x 1/2" x 2" long. Engine holes are .555" center to center tapped 4-40. Aluminum plates are attached to the fuselage with 4-40 by 1" long SHCS (bolts).
>
>Thanks
>Paul
.
Gary Weaver
>picture. It is a little bit tail heavy. I placed 4 pennies
>on the nose to make it balance on the spars. It is balanced
>on the wooden blocks you see in the picture. The wing tips
>are solid balsa and a lot heaver than I wanted but I had to
>scrafice looks for weight. I would like to cover it with
>something other than monocote but I don't know what to use
>other than silkspan. I am not sure how much weight the
>monocote will add, 3/4 of the weight will be behind the spar
>so I need to cut some holes in the elevator and stabilizer
>and try to reduce the weight a few ounces. All balsa is not
>created equal the 1/4" balsa on the elevator, stabilizer and
>fin are as hard and heavy as #2 pine, its all I had so I
Gary;
38 ounces less finish is getting a bit heavy for the LA 25. After flying my FT with an FP 25 and an LA 25, I am rethinking what should go in the nose. The LA 25 will work if you keep the ship very light and the weather is right. Throw in some wind, elevation, etc, and it gets a little challenging. My next FT will have something with a little more grunt in the nose. Me thinks either an FP or LA 40, or perhaps a Brodak 40 will do the trick nicely.
You are faced with a plane that is already tail heavy. It will get worse as you finish. You will have to add weight to the nose to get it to balance up right. If you have to add weight, you might as well add power. So, why not look around for a used LA 40 to put in the nose, and use the LA 25 in something like a Flite Streak or something else you might build in the range of 400-450 sqi (and kept light).
The longer tail moment means that you need to keep your stab/elevator/rudder as light as possible. I would also suggest keeping control movements to a minimum while trimming.
V/r
Bob Kruger
Tim McTigue · Oct 30, 2004 09:52 AM
#7 source
>12-5 prop. Should be enough power... I'm assuming mine will
>end up on the heavy side, but hopefully not as porky as my
>Smoothie. I'd have some more pictures up by now, but I did
>a dumb thing... I made the outboard flap the same size as
>the inboard one... forgot to continually consult the plan...
Tim;
Fahgetaboutit. The stock Twister has identically sized flaps and flies fine. The flap is a little "tweak" that most folks just won't need.
Put the plane in the air (or get it ready for spring).
V/r
Bob Kruger
It will be PLENTY of power...but I suspect that over time, you will learn that the 12" prop will do funky things on that small a plane.
The thrust will get you out of alot of jams however. When you get to the point of trying to smooth out the rough edges of your pattern is when you will notice the problems of the gyroscopic effects of that big prop.
FWIW
Curt
Gary Weaver · Oct 30, 2004 03:29 PM
#8 sourceI just came from the hobby store. Econokote is $8.99 a roll, Monocoat is $22.99 a roll. I think I am paying for the name. They have the color I want only in Monocoat so I did not buy anything.
Gary Weaver
jehold66203 · Oct 30, 2004 04:12 PM
#9 source>because that is what it shows on the plans, others have used
>this engine and it works, and I have a Sterling Ringmaster
>and Flite Streak that fly good with this engine. I also
>have an OS 25 FX that I can use. I have 3 new OS 40LA
>engines, 2 OS 46LA engines, 1 torpedo 40, 2 Fox 36X one new
>with a muffler, all possibilities. It might be fun to try
>the Torpedo 40 on this airplane. I am hoping I can make
>this airplane fly very slow and do the manovers like
>something is holding it up.
Gary;
As I did the plans, and I have flown a couple of the ships, I can tell you now that your unfinished weight is pushing the max as to what the 25LA can haul. Add a finish, and you will have trouble. My scratch built FT with a 25LA came in at 37 ounces - finished. On windy days I had trouble. I put an LA 40 in it, retrimmed, and was able to keep tighter lines. I ended up using an APC 12.25 x 3.75 trimmed down to 11.25 inches. You might as well set yourself up for success now.
But, what the heck. You may just need to find out for yourself.
Best of luck.
V/r
Bob Kruger
>I just came from the hobby store. Econokote is $8.99 a
>roll, Monocoat is $22.99 a roll. I think I am paying for
>the name. They have the color I want only in Monocoat so I
>did not buy anything.
Gary;
While I hate to pay the price for Monocoat, I have learned the hard way that for a colored film, it is about the best that's out there. Back when I lived in Clarksville (about 50 miles west of where you live now)in the early 1980s, I built a couple of Twisters and covered them with one of the lower cost films. It was all right in cool weather, but we know just how hot it can get in central and western Tennessee in the summer. To say the film sagged is an understatement. It also peeled, delaminated, and did everything else short of self immolation. I ended up pulling the covering off and going with silkspan and dope.
Hard lesson learned: If you are going through the effort to build a ship, you might as well spend the additional $10 and cover it with a good film (if film is your choice) that will hold up. I have found nothing with color in it that comes close to Monocoat.
Perhaps someone else has a better colored film covering. If so, I am always interested in finding out what it is.
V/r
Bob Kruger
The std. Twister I flew had a Fox 35 with standard heavy Fox muffler, and certainly did not lack power. I read that a 25 FP or LA is equal to or better than a Fox 35, so I'm a bit puzzled about now hearing that the 25's may be a bit marginal.
Steve Scott · Oct 30, 2004 08:49 PM
#12 sourceFinish is fiberglass cloth on the fuse/vertical fin with LusterKote rattlecan spray finish and UltraKote on the wings and stab/elevator.
I've been flying it with the stock OS muffler, a Tornado 9-4 prop and Sullivan 4oz plastic R/C tank on uniflow. I added a Prather 1/2oz prop washer to achieve the desired CG.
I've not flown it in heavier winds but on 58'x.015" lines in light to moderate stuff it does commendably well. Engine runs have been VERY consistent. I think I was getting 4.6 to 4.7 lap times.
>muffler, and certainly did not lack power. I read that a 25
>FP or LA is equal to or better than a Fox 35, so I'm a bit
>puzzled about now hearing that the 25's may be a bit
>marginal.
Ian;
I have flown the venerable stock Twister with the Fox 35, Fox 36, Enya 35, OS Max-S 30 and 35, as well as the OS 25F and FP. All worked and had sufficient power for 58-60' lines, but I had the most trouble out of the Foxes due to vibration.
When I did the plans for the FT, I wanted to show an engine that is currently in production. None of those mentioned above are. So, after picking up a 25LA, I decided to try it on a FT, and added it to the plans. Since that time I have owned two 25LAs. My opinion of them is that they are a fine engine, but they don't have the ponies of the 25FP. My 25LA ship had some real trouble in the wind - even with 58' lines. So, I picked up a used 40LA, put a venturi and NVA in it, replaced the tank, retrimmed, etc, and went back out with 60' lines. Much better. Overall weight increase was 2 ounces, but the Twister wing can handle it. What it did give me was sufficient thrust for windy conditions. I could probably add a couple of feet of line length and still be fine.
The FT will pick up a couple ounces due to the nose doublers and lengthened fuse. That may push the ship over the threshhold of what a 25LA can easilly handle. BTW - unlike some here, I don't consider the 25LA to be as effective as a well broken in and good running Fox 35. That's a subjective call on my part - and it is based solely on feel. I have no dyno to test engines with, so it is probably a moot point to debate. Opinions are like backsides - we all have one.
I fully realize that most Brit flyers have far more experience with flying in the wind than us Yanks - that is just the reality of your weather patterns. So, you may find the 25LA fully sufficient for your needs. Me personally - I like to have the thrust to claw through the wind if necessary.
So, try both... 
V/r
Bob Kruger
When I added the 40 fp, I replaced the original elevator with a specially fabricated 4 lb balsa piece with a CF joiner, clear finish, and CF horn.
I was able to remove the balance nose weight and the plane now flies extremely well--even out to 64' lines.
Gary's plane, regardless of the finish chosen, will get more tail heavy when finished. And that is a weight-costly problem because of the difference in moment arms.
FWIW
Curt
Gary Weaver · Oct 31, 2004 11:43 PM
#20 sourceI have an OS 25FX. From what I can tell this is the ball bearing version of the 25FP. How do you think this will work on the F-Twister?
I had the 25FX engine on my Flite Streak. I tried it on my Ringmaster too. I can tell it has more power than the 25LA. Its a toss up when compairing it to the Fox 36X its hard to tell which one is best the Fox 36X is heaver but the 25FX will do everything the Fox will.
I tried a Fox 35 on my stock Sig Twister. I remember it flew and seemed under powered but that was a long time ago I don't remember anything else. I had an OS 40LA on the same airplane and it was too much engine but flew great until I ripped both wings off at 75 mph.
I don't want to over power this new airplane with too much engine and too much weight.
Gary Weaver
Gary,
NVA stands for Needle Valve Assembly.
DennisV
>flew and seemed under powered but that was a long time ago I
>don't remember anything else. I had an OS 40LA on the same
>airplane and it was too much engine but flew great until I
>ripped both wings off at 75 mph.
>
>I don't want to over power this new airplane with too much
>engine and too much weight.
>
>Gary Weaver
Gary;
You control speed with propeller pitch. If you are running a 10-6 or 11-6 on the LA 40 and running at a two cycle, you will get lots of speed. Put an 11-4 or a 11.25 x 3.75 on it, and you will slow it way down. What you will have is a reserve of useable thrust to get you out of situations you wish you hadn't gotten yourself into.
V/r
Bob Kruger
Circlepilot · Oct 31, 2004 10:28 PM
#19 sourceCredits: Gil Causey (Bi-liners, Baton Rouge) and Joe Bowman, Camden, AR and a few added touches by me.
You have already recieved alot of good info to lighten up your bird, maybe some of the things I did to mine could still be incorporated into your ship, especially the Ultra-Kote or Econo-Kote:
Circlepilot · Nov 01, 2004 12:27 AM
#22 sourceGary Weaver · Nov 01, 2004 08:29 AM
#23 sourceGary Weaver