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TT 25 ENGINE CONVERSION

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 8 of 8 known posts recovered

EI67 · Nov 04, 2004 10:34 AM

#0 source
Vincentzo
HAPPY LANDINGS EVERYBODY

I have a TT 25 RC motor
I bought the OS 25 venturi and needle assembly but the TT motor
has the pinch bolt type of fixing, so I made a slot in the
OS venturi and flew it . It works, sort of , but getting
changes in engine run during the flight.
Is there a venturi I can buy which will fit ? The needle assembly
needs to be higher than the joint with the crankcase body like on
the RC carb. ( I would rather deal with Leonard but need it immediately )

Thanks in advance for any suggestions

Vincent

Mike Alimov · Nov 04, 2004 11:24 AM

#1 source
Vincent,

I run the TT25 (converted from RC) in my speed limit combat ships. It runs flawlessly. However, notice a few important things that can affect engine run:

- a custom-made venturi is seated tightly; any air leaks will give you problems with run consistency;

- needle valve used is Super Tigre assembly, also tight fit - it goes into the place that used to accept RC carburator mount bolt; this NVA is high quality and allows for smooth mixture adjustment;

- I run bladder tank, so there is no question of plumbing problems, tank leaks, fuel pressure, venting, fuel foaming;

- I use an APC 8-4 prop, which lets engine spin at over 12k RPM, which is where this engine "likes" to run; any attempts to get it to run at typical old-fashioned 8k - 9k RPM are futile without serious timing and other engine modifications;

- engine is mounted firmly using two F2D-style aluminum machined motor mounts directly to the center rib / fuselage; this minimizes vibration amplitude and maximizes frequency;

To summarize, make sure there are no air or fuel leaks anywhere, the tank is uniflow and plumbed correctly, fuel line is minimal length, prop is low-pitch (9-4 sounds good) and is well balanced, and the fuselage nose is rigid.

Good luck.

tomB · Nov 04, 2004 03:20 PM

#4 source
>
>- I run bladder tank, so there is no question of plumbing
>problems, tank leaks, fuel pressure, venting, fuel foaming;
>

Actually, with a bladder pressure tank, none of the other stuff matters much. You don't need a venturi (just the case opening), and you don't even need a spray bar in the needle valve assembly.

Tom B

Lawrence Williams · Nov 04, 2004 12:14 PM

#2 source
Greetings Vincent:

I'm not sure if this is the right part for you, but it is listed as a Thunder Tiger GP25 Venturi:

http://www.ehobbies.com/rc-ttr-pn1081.html

Only five bucks!

It may be more difficult to find the original NVA. The e-Hobbies site has no photos of parts. It might be this one:

http://www.ehobbies.com/rc-ttr-pn1054.html

But who knows.

I highly suggest using the ST NVA. You can get one from our host Leonard, Eric Rule at RSM, or Virginia Hobbysport. I bet you can get Virginia Hobbysport to drop one in the mail imediately if you call them. See http://www.virginiahobbysport.com/index.htm

Regards,

Lawrence Williams
Yorba Linda, CA

LNeumann · Nov 04, 2004 03:02 PM

#3 source
The OS needle assembly is a .135 diameter and the hole where you are mounting the needle is a .155. A small Super Tigre needle assembly is the proper size and will fit, as will the original TT needle if it is still available. The needle for the OS 35S will also fit, by the way, if you want an OS needle. You should get one of these or something similar.

The OS 25 FP venturi, if this is what you got, is .257 and made to be choked down by the needle. It is really too large for the FP, and without the needle passing through it is way too large for the Thunder Tiger. With the FP needle passing through it gives a choke area of about .017. With that size engine what you want is something closer to .012 to .013

The stock Thunder Tiger venturi is WAY too large for stunt. It is .173 and gives a choke area of .0235

What you want is a venturi with an opening of about .125 to .129 giving you a choke area of .012 to .013 (The equivalent of a .238 venturi on the 25 FP with the OS needle passing through it.)

So, although an aftermarket venturi may cost you more, you will be much happier with a venturi that is properly sized for stunt, unless you are planning on using it for combat with pressure.

Leonard Neumann

EI67 · Nov 05, 2004 03:44 AM

#6 source
Vincentzo
Hi Leonard
Thanks for your hi tech reply, as always!!
I now have to confess that with an inverted landing I damaged the
RC carb , bought the parts from Tower and modified the venturi
and here I am. I have both the OS and S/T needle assemblies
and am now looking at the Tower venturi to see if it is suitable
.......in the meantime what I have is still flyable
Keep your tonlegee
( In Irish 'tonlegee' means '##### to the wind' ! )
Vincent

R Bush · Nov 04, 2004 04:00 PM

#5 source
Hi Vincent,

Have you tried using the stock RC carburetor, adjusted to stay in the full open position? I've had decent running PROFILE stunters with OS 20-,25-, and 40FP-RC engines on uniflow suction. This gets me into the air sooner and gives me a starting point for testing, trimming, and tuning.

Is your Thunder Tiger a current "Pro" or a plain bearing, or one of the earlier models?

Randy

gcb · Nov 05, 2004 07:21 AM

#7 source
The TT PN's for GP-25C/L engine # 9002 are:

Venturi inlet body (part # 15 on drawing) is PN1081

Needle Valve assy. (part # 13 on drawing) is PN1085

These can be bought as an assembly (part # 19 on drawing) is PN9254

The TT uses a true venturi with a sprinkler system so the hole size is the whole size.

I would trust Leonard's judgement on this. Perhaps running muffler pressure would be a good plan B. I have only bench-run mine, not yet in a plane.

Choices, choices...

George