McCoy Red Head Question

Just how critical is the need for the nylon button that goes in the end of the crankpin? I have several great running RHs but some have lost that little button.
If it is a really critical part, is there a substitute available?
Thanks
Bill <><

Bill: I should be able to find one. I think you should run it with it in. Give me your snail.

Redheads accumulate like Cox reed motors. Piles of parts.

LAST EDITED ON Nov-16-04 AT 08:03 PM (CST)
 
Thanks, Currell!
I was just not sure about the "necessity" of it.
Bill <><

LAST EDITED ON Nov-16-04 AT 09:05 PM (CST)
 
I believe it serves the same purpose as the "stuffer" backplates sold for the Fox .35; i.e., it lessens conrod wear by restricting movement on the crankpin. Just my opinion . . .

By now they probably are all very brittle from age and heat. I had one just crumble when I tried to remove it.

>Thanks, Currell!
>I was just not sure about the "necessity" of it.
>Bill <><
>
>When the character of a man is not clear to you, look at his
>friends.
>Japanese Proverb

Parts sent......

Thanks, Scott!
Bill <><

If you can find one the nylon button on a K&B Stallion 35 fits perfectly. I think it its use is to keep the rod from digging into the backplate and to keep the rod on the crank pin.

Those buttons used to be made of brass on the early engines. Go to the hardware store, buy a #6 brass round head wood screw (it might be a #4 or #8), file down the head until the slot disappears, then cut to the proper length. Voila, a McCoy button.

OR

Cut out a brass disk the same diameter of the backplate disc. Then JB weld it on the backplate. This will "stuff" the crankcase and help the engine run. And hold the rod on the crankpin.

OR

Install a series 21 backplate. That stuffs the crankcase also.

Hi John,

Anyword on turning the inside of the RH 40 cases to fit the Series 21 Sleeve? I did one myself by hand. Haven't had a chance to test it yet.

Thanks for the tips on the brass parts, and series 21 backplate. I have a few of those.

Thanks for all the other replies, too, guys!
Bill <><

Bill,
I don't believe you need to machine the S21 backplate to fit into a RH. In any case I would be very cautious about butchering a RH 40 case. Best to make the other parts fit the RH case. If you goof up, you still have a good RH case.

Hi John,
You and I had a discussion about using series 21 jugs and pistons in RH cases. Of course in stock trim the S21 S/P doesn't fit in the RH 40 case. I already have some parts built RHs that have series 21 back plates.
Thanks
Bill <><

Similarly how important are the washers between the crankcase and drive washer on OS Max's?

Tony

Same thing TONY

The washer between the crankcase and the driver is to prevent the crank from hitting the rear cover when using an electric starter. Hand starting the engine is not a problem. Except when the engine back fires!!LOL

Bill, I bought a package of nylon screws (2 to the package) at the local Lowe's or Home Depot store, ground the head down until it was pretty thin, cut to a length that wouldn't back out, and slipped it into the hole in the crank pin. Looks good, doesn't scar the backplate, and seems to do the job. Don't know how long it will stand up to running heat. Some of my old Veco engines had brass ones, but that may not have been standard. Some of the backplates were pretty scratched up.

Bill: On the way today. It is on a piece of cardboard. Currell

Thanks, Currell!
It will find it's way into a very nice 40.
Bill <><

>Bill, I bought a package of nylon screws (2 to the package)
>at the local Lowe's or Home Depot store, ground the head
>down until it was pretty thin, cut to a length that wouldn't
>back out, and slipped it into the hole in the crank pin.
>Looks good, doesn't scar the backplate, and seems to do the
>job. Don't know how long it will stand up to running heat.
>Some of my old Veco engines had brass ones, but that may not
>have been standard. Some of the backplates were pretty
>scratched up.

Thanks, Walt,
I started looking in the back of all my McCoys, and over half no longer have a button. I did find a brass one in a bunch of parts from trading, and will see how it works. Currell and Scott have come through with some, John also gave the tip on using brass screws filed down.
Seems the nylon screws would last as long as the original pieces.
I believe my problem is solved, thanks guys!
Bill <><