So, let's hear from you with just about any story - I'll try and use all I receive. Anonymity is yours for the asking.
Bob Z
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 53 of 53 known posts recovered
Bob Zambelli, 559 Mininger Rd, Souderton, PA, 18964 or <[email protected]>
I've really only had one bad incident. And it wasn't the stooge's fault directly.
Let's just say that if you're flying with a stooge, it behooves you to insure that there are no weeds sticking up that could catch the lines as the stooge releases.
It just never comes out well.
Good suggestion. I have made hundreds of flights and have only had one problem - I accidently stepped on the release line, which released the plane.
Since I was taught to walk the Down line out to the handle, the model simply nosed over and stopped right after it released. You don't have to worry about cutting your hands or anything. The model has very little pull until it accelerates.
My two cents,
Ron King
"What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us."
--- R.W. Emerson
Done it many times. Not as tough as it sounds. Use a screwdriver and the line reel as the peg. It is important to stay low and keep the airplane low so it does not Twang off the peg. Easier for a lefty. There was an article called "The better Mouse Trap" in some short lived mag in the 1970's (sport modeler?) Wish I still had it.
I have heard of combat fliers using a 55 gallon trash barrel and hand launching the airplane.... that takes guts
I first saw this scheme in the Sketchbook page of Model Airplane News.
The author advocated a wood stake driven into the ground. It later escalated into a fence post.
The 55-gallon drum is much easier in the lines.
This is a thing people do when nobody else is around. If some else was there, why wrap your lines around a post ??
Though often suggested ( hopefully in jest ), I've heard of anybody actually doing it. If I did, I would never admit it.
John Christensen
SAVE ALL THE PIECES-Phil Brown
Glen Wearden
Glen Wearden
Also.... this is a serious subject and this post is not intended to demean it in any way.
My primary flying for over 10 years has been on a stooge, hundreds of flights a year at least. Like using a table saw, you use care and thought to overcome any danger. The most damage I've ever seen at a flying site was when there were a bunch of people standing around, not when I was flying alone.
Perhaps it forces one to THINK just a bit more?
From somewhere near Parkville, Mo.
William Crane
AMA 6733
SAVE ALL THE PIECES-Phil Brown
"Straighten up and fly right"
Rog
The only stooge related injury I have had occured while a friend was helping me and I wasn't using a stooge. I had been used to flying off a stooge, and waking around behind the wing to reach under and unhook the battery. Well my friend holding the airplane was right where I was used to going to unhook the battery. So I reached for it through the prop.
Jim
One day I was doing some goodyear practice (that's a real difficult event when you are pitting and flying too!), when after the third pitstop I felt a tug on the handle (felt like 6 pound 13.369 ounce largemouth bass) when I picked it up. Well I thought one of my clumsy feet had tripped the release. I use a homemade stooge with two eye-bolts and a pin attached to a big nylon cord. It has worked many times for stunt, racing, and just plain fun flying. On the plane I use a 1/16 inch wire skid with a loop in it.
Well, when I ran back for fourth pitstop I was amazed and shocked to find the pin still inserted with 3/4 of tailskid loop. I was flying at a school without permission. Several kids were watching and there was at least a quarter of a mile of windows looking at me. So the situation could have been a lot worse.
Moral of Story: Check EVERYTHING!!! I never thought about the wire wearing through until it happened. Now I try to fly with someone else, it is safer and more fun too.
Guys, it's not a joke. Safety needs to come first and I know many of you practice and can't always get a hand, but please, whenever possible use the buddy system. A stooge is a great thing, but it can't have a conversation with you or tell you your clover wasn't entered at 38 degrees, or was that 45?...
Mary
John Thompson
Regards
Mike
Tony
From somewhere near Parkville, Mo.
William Crane
AMA 6733
Regards
Mike
You may not be able to drive to get help!
If you only fly when there are others to launch for you, it is not likely you get enough practice in to be a real threat at competitions. Serious practice is pretty much a solitary effort. Flying with other flyers is a nice social occasion but interferes with getting in all the practice you need each session to be competitive. I consider stooge flying much safer than hand launching, particularly safer for the airplane. I always walk out to the airplane ahead of the flying wires. The stooge release is on the other side, but then, I always fly off hard surface. Stooge techniques, and safety, like everything else, improves with practice. What I fear is that someone who flies less than fifty flights a year decides something is unsafe and he is the one to propose rules for everyone else to correct our practices to conform to his vision.
I am very uncomfortable with discussing stooges as a safety issue. There is always someone anxious to improve safety by legislating rules. Whatever hapens, people are always going to fly with stooges. Making rules against their use will only cost us our insurance coverage. The emphasis has to be on safe design and use.
Al
1. After a flight, never walk the model back to the stooge and place it on the ground near it, without hooking it up to the stooge. Do this immediately. Otherwise, you will (later, when starting) think that the model is in fact attached, and, when the motor starts...
2. Don't be lazy like me, and use a 70 foot stooge line to launch a model on 60 foot lines. This increases the liklihood of getting your feet tangled.
3. An aramid fiber line, such as the ones made by Sullivan, is an effective stooge line. They don't stretch, kink, and you can see them on grass really well.
4. My stooge uses a simple release pin made from music wire. On a profile, you have at least two choices for attachment:
a. Drill a hole through the profile. You can bush it with a little stub of brass (or aluminum) tubing if you like. This is the preferred approach, since less can go wrong.
b. Attach a small piece of flying wire, with a small loop for the airplane side, and a larger one for the stooge pin. Use a wood screw, and CA it into the wood. You do run the risk of the loop pulling out of the wood, although this has not happened to date.
5. As an obvious point, make certain that your pin release operation (if this is your type of stooge) is as smooth and interference free as possible. My earliest stooge design would occasionally allow the loop, upon release, to hang up on the stooge base, so the model would sit there precariously, motor chugging away. If you left the handle to investigate, there was the risk that the plane suddenly would free itself.
Currell
I might add that all stooges should be spring loaded in the closed direction to prevent accidental release.
Al
Now, I can begin to cut and paste to integrate the responses into my next article. Keep in mind that the real purpose of the colunm is safety so a few items may be edited or deleted but, beleive me, I'll try and use everything.
Bob Z
Choosing to go with a simple design, I didn't design in a spring release, however. My pin engagement is about 4" on the OB side of the model, so it takes quite a deliberate (and lenghty) tug on the release line. The pin releases completely, and, for the next flight, I have to fetch it and reinsert it into the base. Sometimes the pin is as much as 5 feet or so from the stooge base.
But you are right, and my next one will have the spring feature, retaining the longish pull that characterizes my present stooge.
Currell
SAVE ALL THE PIECES-Phil Brown
make sure the stooge line cannot blow back over the lines or airplane in any way after release. I use a leash on the airplane now rather than have the stooge lines close to the airplane.
Safety thongs are especally important when using a stooge.
stake the down line with a screwdriver at the handle if possible.
a 3 oz dandeline will win the fight over a 22 oz airplane almost every time. Take time to cut or mash the weeds!
On grass use 2 stakes so the stooge can't rock side to side.
Dave
How does a thong affect stooge operations, good or bad, and, for what its worth, having a stake in the ground near the center of the circle is just something else to trip over while flying. Logical, but over safe ideas aren't always good practice, either.
Al
Currell
The safety thong line doesn't hurt a dang thing while flying, but it does nose your airplane over on takeoff if such a thing occurs before you are out to the handle. I've never had that happen before.
It IS impressive just how small a weed is necessary to alter the direction of your airplane on takeoff. But being quick on your feet will take care of that and has happened on grass field takeoffs with a human stooge. The worst launch I had was from a guy who launched it into the circle so hard that the lines were touching the ground before it left his hands. Why he didn't just point it at me and throw I don't know. Looked pretty flying by my nose, smacked the ground on the other side of the circle.
From somewhere near Parkville, Mo.
William Crane
AMA 6733
I stake the down line with a screwdriver, and pull it out when I fly, I can't trip over that. I also back up 10 feet.
The safety thong is always a good idea. When you stooge, there are more things out of your control and the potential for a problem is greater. I had the stooge line get caught on a the tail hook. When the stooge line went tight, it jerked hard enough to pull the handle out of my hand. When I have a launcher, the lines are always tight and out of the grass, sometimes on a stooge, it isn't always so. That is why in my opinion that a safety thong is more important when you use a stooge.

I use a 2 piece stooge line. 60 feet with a line connecter and 9 more feet. So if I'm flying a smaller plane with shorter lines, I take off the extension.
When releasing the stooge line, I squat down so that the handle and stooge line are near the ground. I pull the stooge line and let the plane roll away 4 or 5 feet before putting down the stooge handle. Never had a premature release from a stooge with probably 300-400 stooge flights a year.
edit: typo
It works for me.
BRUCE
BGM
Gary Weaver
SAVE ALL THE PIECES-Phil Brown
When the character of a man is not clear to you, look at his friends.
Japanese Proverb
SAVE ALL THE PIECES-Phil Brown
On the lighter side.
There was a guy that was so strange ? he wouldn,t let any one hold his plane.He used a Jim Walker handle that allowed one to crank the lines in or out while the plane was in flight.
He would hold the plane by the inboard wing and reel out the lines
to fly his fox 35 powered smoothie by applying and releasing the handle brake.
One day he had about 10 ft. of line out when the handle jammed.
The resulting flight was best described as a mad bee.
From then on he let someone hold his plane
Charlie Pate
He flying using his modelbox as a restraint he had a loop of string tied to the tailwheel and just looped it through a wire hook with a pullout pin to release. this worked well until one day when he forgot to step back after launch and destroyed the outside wing of his Nobler by hitting the model box on landing.
The second was using a more conventional flate plate and release mechanism fo use on tarmac. he was walking out to the plane when he felt the lines pull against his leg. When he looked round the plane was towing the plate and had turned in towards the centre of the circle. It continued to rotate until prop met lines and wrapped them around the front of the plane.
[photo not recovered: brian_at_impington.jpg] | [photo not recovered: brian_at_impington2.jpg] |
Regards
Mike
Even though I was there to launch for him, one day he insisted on using the stooge to show me how well it worked. Well, just before he pulled the release, the thrust of the prop overcame the coefficient of friction between the steel block and the asphalt (my theory is that the pebbly asphalt texture lubed with castor created a very slippery surface). After the steel block started sliding, the model accelerated and arced into the center of the circle toward my friend. I chased after it but it moved a little faster than me...until it caught the lines in the prop and jerked the handle out of his hand. That stopped the engine, but pulled the lines across the wing fast enough to cut through the leading edge.
This episode reminded me of the time I watched a mechanic do a runup on a full-size twin Beechcraft, apparently parked on an oil spot under the left main tire. Suddenly the airplane spun around the locked right main tire and hit a fence. It happened very fast, and I remember seeing that mechanics face in the window as the airplane whipped past me...he had the same expression as my modeling friend did as his steel-block-towing stunter arced toward him.
Bill Groman
"There is no such thing as the wrong way to enjoy a hobby"
Letting go of handle --- NO PROBLEM .
Suggest you study 35-pound Radio Control with 5-cubic inch engines and gasoline fuel.
Possible problems;
1. Pilot error.
2. Radio Interference.
3. Mechanical failure.
4. Crashing miles from protected area.
Much more pay dirt here. Sub-topics,,,,
1. Why the 35-pound limit weight was made fuzzy.
2. Legalizing turbo-jets.
Had tried not to jump into this one, but couldn't resist...
Key things mentioned, with some additions, tho scattered throughout the thread.
1) Lay out the stooge line BEHIND the model and flying lines, and 10-15' further away than the edge of the circle you intend to fly. (I use RC glider towline cord, on a large yellow line reel, and only unroll enough to reach the handle when model is on the stooge baseplate. Spike or weight the reel to ITS position.)
2) MAKE SURE the stooge release pin IS ENGAGED before heading for the handle.
3) CLEAR the lines from weeds AND when on pavement from the small snags and whiskers that are usually present, by raising the handle so you can see the lines are off the ground all the way to the model -- BEFORE reaching for the stooge trip-line.
4) Squat, pull the trip to let 'er go, then DROP the stooge line. As the model takes flight, do what racers do from their pit stops - circle back to the intended center. (Mark it some way, if on an ad-lib site. One friend squirted an X of fuel on pavement as a marker. I usually fly on paved and striped parking lots. E.g.,pick a parking space stripe intersection for flight center, and place stooge w/regard to that.)
5) Keep the stooge reel in mind as you fly. It is safely far away, particularly if you check it occasionally to be sure.
6) When you land, safely away from the stooge, put -preferably stake or weight- the handle with the stooge line reel. Walk the lines off the ground to the model. Then carry the model back to the stooge baseplate area.
I generally walk/wipe/untwist the lines back out to the handle, next, and place the flying lines and stooge line as in 1), above. I also usually start the engine out of the stooge, for a bit more flexibility with plug cord/battery, etc. Then placing the model's stooge loop into the device - a bit awkward, yes - is a powerful reminder to make durned sure the stooge release pin IS ENGAGED.
\BEST\LOU