First 'big' plane

Hi there all. I plan to start building my Sig Banshee this week and have a couple of questions, as all I have built and flown were profile .049's until now. I would like to put adjustable leadouts on this plane, but don't know how to do this. I have an idea of how to make them, but I don't know how to install them on a wing that does not have a solid wingtip. Also I was wondering what to use as leadout wire. Should I use a wire kit, or would straightt steel rod be better, and what size should I use. A big thanks to all who help, and reply to my post.

You will have to change the construction of the tip. If you wish to retain the tip shape (outline), you will need to laminate three pieces of 1/8 inch balsa in the size and shape of the tip. They should form a large "C" shape like the present tip, but cut out the inner section, leaving the "C" with about 1/2 to 5/8 ths inch width.
As you laminate them, cut away the section of the middle "C" where you want the leadouts to pass through. On the inner side of the tip, leave a sholder for the ends of the adjustable guide to be glued to, so the inside of the "C" will not be smooth, but have a couple of lumps on it. Have I confused you enough? After installation, sand to a smooth rounded shape.
I would use flexable cables for leadouts and BUSH the belcrank where they go through it, Wrap the ends at the belcrank the same way you would your line ends per the AMA recommended way.
What engine are you intending to put on your Banshee? You need to shorten the nose at least one and a half inches for a Fox 35, and even more for any engine heavier than that. Lengthen the motor mount beams rearward back to the wing leading edge.
If you need more, don't hesitate to ask.
Bigiron

The photo below shows approximately what is done to install adjustable leadouts in a tip that's not block balsa. Happens, it's a Banshee, even. I just made duplicates from 3/32 sheet, and made a perimeter of soft 3/16, wider at the LE and TE. The die-crushing was so terrible that I decided to add cap strips, but it just got to be way more trouble than it was worth. I wish I'd just made new ribs. As for the leadouts, I've used solids, but prefer cables. You can get the adjustable L.O. guide and cables from Brodak, and probably RSM.

Next, a question. What power will you use? The nose on the Banshee is very long, and they will come out very noseheavy. I would suggest moving the wing forward 1.5" (or more, depending on power choice), rather than cutting off the nose. It's not that difficult to do. Draw a good centerline before you start. Steve

You will find alot of info on this site concerning Banshees. According to most, modifications are a must in order to get a good flying ship. Shortning the nose, lengthening the tail etc.
With regards to the adjustable leadouts. All of the instructions with Brodak kits, that I have seen, have a detailed page on installing them, pictures and all. The first one's that I installed were a little confusing, even with the pictures. If need be, ask some one to scan the page and e-mail it to you. I dont have a scanner or I would. Hope this helps.

Thank for the help and pics guys, I appreciate it. The motor being used will be an older Fox 35(if I get a muffler), or a new Fox 35 stunt.

LAST EDITED ON Nov-28-04 AT 09:26 PM (CST)
 
If you don't want to get fancy, just build a slot on the bottom of the stock wing tip sheet with a piece of 1/8" front and back and one below. make it long enough to blend into the shape of the tip and it will almost hide the hole. Theoretically, the fact that the exit point is 1/8" below the vertical center might be a factor, but I've done them centered and below and in the real world it won't matter.

If you were building next years world champion stunter, it would be a good talking point, but not on this one.

Be sure to secure the nut(s) holding the slide. Having that come loose is usually fatal. Use only self locking and if the bolts are short, stick a piece of silicone tubing on the end to make sure nothing falls off while adjusting. Also, be sure to reinforce the rib you attach the slider on. This takes a bit of strain during flight; at least more than you want to trust to un-reinforced 1/16" sheet.

Good luck,

LAST EDITED ON Nov-28-04 AT 10:12 PM (CST)
 
Congratulations on stepping up!

The Banshee is one of my favorites...better than the Twister in my opinion! Check forum archives for some of the great changes you can make to get this plane to be a fine performer...

I believe the best thing you can do for this plane is build it straight. Shorten the nose to establish a good CG. Finish it light! Dont go nuts with heavy coats of paint. And reinforce the fuse (with a dowl) where the landing gear goes thru.

If you do go with adjustable lead outs take the advise of making sure that it never comes lose in flight!

I have one that I have retired but it flew great. We shortend the nose by nearly 2 1/2" to fit and OS FP .40, fitted it with CF gear and pushrod, and finished the nose with a cheek cowl. That plane, and some great coaching, got me through the Beginner Pattern and learned the standard pattern. After two crashes the plane is repaired but is retired from competition and I will save it as a trainer.

Olive you keep
on flyn'