Enya .29-B IV break-in problem solved

Flex-hone makes a 12.7mm hone in 320 grit that fits the front case of my Enya .29 like it was made for it. The Enya crank measures 12.7mm hmmm.

The .35 is probably the same crank size. (I don't have a 35 so I'm not certain).

You can buy them from MSC industrial supply (about $20 plus shipping).
Ask for the free booklet about Flex-hones that is available when you purchase the hone. Follow the hone directions for surface feed/rpm and oil type.

Remove the the venturi/needle valve assy.

Using the correct screw driver, remove the four screws that fasten the front case. Gently remove the front case and the crank. The whole assy will come right off, careful not to muck up the gasket.

Remove the gasket.

Screw the prop nut on the end of the crank shaft so that it is even with the end of the shaft. Gently rap it with a plastic hammer and the tapered drive washer will come free.

Remove the nut and the crank will come out of the front case.

Clean the parts with hot soapy water and check the fit of the crank in the bushing. Mine was fairly tight. I couldn't even get it to spin one revolution when I snapped it between my fingers. Hold the case vertically and let the crank "Fall" into place. My crank would not fall home on it's own.

I chucked the hone in my lathe but you could use a drill press or even a hand drill if that is all you have.

I dipped the hone in 10w30 motor oil and ran the hone through the case.

IT ONLY TAKES ABOUT 3 SECONDS, DON"T OVER HONE YOUR CASE.
The flex hone will cut faster than you think it will, GO EASY

Clean the parts, Fit Check.

If you can get the crank to spin a couple times when you snap it between your fingers "It's Done". If you hold the front case vertically and the crank falls home "It's Done".

Clean all the parts throughly, there's still grit in the bore of the front case and on the crank.

Oil the parts and give the crank a spin. "Nice"

Assemble in the reverse.

My engine is starting to 2-4, I'll bet it gets better after it runs-in a little longer. I have mine in a Brodak ARF Oriental.

You can repeat the above procedure until you ruin the engine.

But Hey, It's an Enya. I like the one I have better already.

Great tip.
Other than by damage, I have never been able to wear out an Enya from running it properly.
Bill <><

I think thats why they (mine) run hot. The crank is just too tight. The little piston is working its A$$ Off trying to push the crank around in that tight bore.
You just gotta love the way the front of the case comes off. You don't have to disturb the piston/cyl.

Can you substitute the ball bearing case for the plain bearing piece? This would eliminate the problem you're addressing.

I too have been unable to wear out any of my Enyas, even burying them in the mud hasn't stopped them.

The hone was cheaper...(smiles)
Regards,
John Jolley

You can just substitute the front case with the ball bearing version plus a new crank. Just what I did after a friend crashed his Enya 29 into the asphalt and broke the crank. Granted that was in the early 70's when the parts were easy to come by.

>You can just substitute the front case with the ball bearing
>version plus a new crank. Just what I did after a friend
>crashed his Enya 29 into the asphalt and broke the crank.
>Granted that was in the early 70's when the parts were easy
>to come by.

I'm trying to stay away from ball bearing engines. I live by the ocean and the salt air ruins them if I store my planes outside in the garage.
I just Fly for fun so plain bearing engines work better for me, but thanks for the tip. I'll remember that option.