Tips on a Walter Umland Magician (35)

Would like any helpful info from you guys that have built this kit.
The print says you can move the stab back 2" for better turning and for more stability. Would it be highly recommended to do this or does it fly good enough where it's at. I have been flying for a year and starting to practice the beginner pattern for local contest. I would rather leave it where it shows but if it's considerably better I will move it. Thanks in advance.

If your going to fly for fun and practice go for it. Otherwise if you are going to use it as a classic plane, build as per the plans.DOC

Back when beginners flew the full pattern, I learned on a stock, flapped Magician with Fox 35 and came in second at my first contest in '78. The two changes I would suggest is to install close spaced adjustable leadouts and an adjustable tip weight box. I've seen non-flapped Magicians fly very well. I'd suggest you make fixed flaps and leave the stab where it is.

I built one off of Midwest plans with flaps. Flaps ore an option on the Midwest version. I have only built this one so can't say how the non flapped version fly's. I put the stab where it shows on the plan and it was a very fine flying machine.

Hi Henry,
It's true, moving the stab to the rear 1 1/2" to 2" will increase help it's characteristics.
But, if you build it to plan, you can use it double duty: PAMPA and Classic.
I think I would lengthen the tail moment on it, though. We built one that way, with flaps, and it wasn't as "touchy". You can always build a Classic plane when the time comes for the full pattern.
Bill <><

I have two, one with flaps, one without. I can't compare them as apples vs apples except for the flaps, but the non-flapped one is a very capable flyer. Of course, it doesn't turn quite as tightly.

The Midwest Magician was one of my first stunters. I messed around with several different engines.

The weak point was the horizontal stab. If I built one again, I would make it at least twice as thick and add some spruce. It was always on the verge of failure. Plane needs tail weight anyway.

A great memory was flying the Magician on the race track at the Michigan State Fairgrounds at midnight. We were teenagers, waiting for a traffic jamb to clear. The floodlights were still on. So we unloaded and took a few flights.

I agree that it needs tail weight. A friend built one and slotted the fuselage to put the controls inside. He added two sides of sheet balsa that mated exactly with the nose doublers, and completely hid the controls. It added strength, a little tail weight, and less drag. For a final touch, he added a red-head McCoy 35, to match his red paint scheme.

It was a very smooooth Magician.

Make the stab out of 3/16" hard balsa instead of the 1/8" sheet provided in the kit. This will add strength and also allow you to use pinned hinges. 1/8" is just to weak and warps to easily. The Umland Magician I built flew fine with the stab in the designed position. My only issue is the extreme offset on the wing. It always seem to make the plane fly strange when the one wing panel is so much longer.

Funny you should mention... I finished a Magician last spring. Largly from a Golden State Kit (As I understand it, Walt has taken over that line). I made many mods. If you're interested check out the post Magician II modifications(it's finished) in the archives ~April 23, 04. I listed all the mods and included photos of the construction. I really like the way it flys. Hope this is helpful. If you have questions you can contact me and I'll try my best to answer them. Good luck with it.

I built a W.U. Magician same time last year and found it to be a very well done kit. The only change I made was to change the Stab from 1/8 balsa to 3/16 balsa and use pinned hinges. I opted not to install flaps due to the fact that I am just getting back into this and I had a Midwest Magician in the mid 70's and it flew pretty good without them.