Vulcan paint update-(edit: maybe a better pic)

LAST EDITED ON Dec-01-04 AT 01:01 PM (CST)
 
Well I posted about the paint problems I had when I was in the home stretch of finishing this ship.
I pretty much figured out what the problem is/was.
1. too much reducer
2. too much flexative
3. not letting the red cure long enough
4. see #1 & #2 & #3

I hope th epics come through of the "fix" I am doing. A LOT of "craters" to fix.

Bill <><

HI Bill. I can truly feel your pain on this. I am doing the Ambroid version of the Ares and with all the rain, painting has become a real challenge. Peeling primer, blushing, spot peeling down to the wood, etc. So now it is just sitting there while I try to finish three others. At times I think it would be quicker and easier to strip it and start over. I know why it is doing what it's doing, but trying to prevent it may take a course in chemistry, or alchemy.!

LAST EDITED ON Dec-02-04 AT 07:50 AM (CST)
 
Hi Ty,
After much soul searching ( ), I decided to see if I could affect a "touch up" instead of getting out the paint stripper. The substrate is as smooth as I ever got one, and the thoughts of doing all that again really didn't appeal to me.
So. I shot a coat of fresh lite coat on it and let it set for two weeks. Zinc stearate in clear wasn't going to do the job of filling the craters, so I did a spot check using Dynatron Glazing and Spot Putty. The test spot was very promising so I applied it to all the bad spots. Let that dry for two days then sanded with 400, then 800.
While I was at it, I sanded the rest of the red areas with 800 since I am going to have to hit the red with a light coat all over, anyway.
I have one white panel to reshoot, and one yellow area. Then I can put on a light coat of red to blend and hit it with clear!
I have started adding the black outlines with a brush already, and so far no more "pull ups" of paint.
I also noticed than a light cover of the Dynatron helped the fillet areas hold paint better. The paint seems to get a better "bite".
As I work on the Argus and Cobra for a client, I will continue to finish this one. It will be ready by KOI, but I don't think the other two will.
Hope to see you there!
Bill <><

Bill My red Juno that I sold at Brodak was refinished three times before it ever flew. It even rolled off the hood of the car one time and broke most of the ibeam ribs on one side. I had more problems with that plane than all the twenty that came before it.I was in a apartment for one year and didn't want to start a new project.

Hi Bill and Ed. It seems that "I" beamers are like "gorgeous" wimmin. Great to look at, fly, but the repairs are a real heart tug.

I've always found it interesting that some planes are just recalcitrant when it comes to finishing. Sometimes it's the weather, sometime the exact mix of paint, sometimes I think it's the phase of the moon. I've seldom had a plane that the finish just worked from the wood up. One or two memorable ones that went smoothly from wood to clear. Seems there is usually at least a minor irritation. The last plane I painted has all manor of finishing headaches. Paint cracking (never had that before), sand throughs (much like "pilot error") and endless bleeding problem even though I used 3M blue vinyl tape and thought I'd prepped things well. Pulled substrate, you name it. The one before that had endless clearcoating problems.

I think I've just adjusted to the idea that few plane finishes will just work from the wood up. Be prepared for something to happen and just deal with it and move on. I have hopes that eventually I will find a finishing system that is relatively effortless and works every time regardless of external factors. I also am looking for the Holy Grail. Probably find it first.

by any act, error, or omission, I have, intentionally or
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to get over it.

The ultimate finishing system for me was Hobby Poxy paint and Clear. It was so easy that I became almost a master at it. Shame that it dissapeared, On the other hand GlassKote is about the same and if so then for me as a non competator and not too anal about an extra ounce of weight then happy days are here again.

>The ultimate finishing system for me was Hobby Poxy paint
>and Clear. It was so easy that I became almost a master at
>it. Shame that it dissapeared, On the other hand GlassKote
>is about the same and if so then for me as a non competator
>and not too anal about an extra ounce of weight then happy
>days are here again.

I agree. Hobby Poxy was great stuff. I liked SuperPoxy, too. There's nothing like a good coat of epoxy to care of all that rubbing out junk I could never manage.

>>The ultimate finishing system for me was Hobby Poxy paint
>>and Clear. It was so easy that I became almost a master at
>>it. Shame that it dissapeared, On the other hand GlassKote
>>is about the same and if so then for me as a non competator
>>and not too anal about an extra ounce of weight then happy
>>days are here again.
>
>I agree. Hobby Poxy was great stuff. I liked SuperPoxy,
>too. There's nothing like a good coat of epoxy to care of
>all that rubbing out junk I could never manage.

It goes deeper then that for me tom. Dope might be the lightest finish that you can put on a plane but once your done that soft finish will be your worst friend. You'll spend time polishing,buffing,and touching up your rub throughs and in the end it will either crack or fade.
I have 2 planes that are over 20 years old done with Hobby Poxy and they are as bright and shiney and non faded as the day the paint was applied.
I know that the serious competator if he hasn't moved up to a more modern, read that less labor intensiive, finish and is still using dope then your not going to convince him to use anything else.
Me I have better things to do with my time then dope,buff, and polish. Epoxy and Urethanes are really my choice of finish.
Dennis
I won't get 20 points but it's not a high priority to me.

Dennis,

It's the main reason I stick with auto finishes. Urethane and catalyzed clearcoat. The colors are light and if you don't get too heavy-handed with the clear, the finish is light and holds up very well to nitro and sun fading. Besides, with auto paint, you can ANY color you want.

Agreed, not to mention the fuel will make spots unless you stick with about 5% nitro. There's still the problem with the base on an open framework. I wonder if any attempts have been made to really refine thinned Elmer's. It's mostly an issue with dope availability, but all the mass-market kits (Guillow's) are recommending it.

Unless Monokote is used, which you normally don't paint, seems like the choice is still dope for an open framework - at least to get the covering on and seal it. Everyone says Coverite is way too heavy.

Hi Tom,
Up to the color coats, use you're regular finishing techniques. Then you can apply the two part auto paints like Dupont ChromaClear/Chromabase. It takes a ridiculously small amount of color paint with these systems to cover. I used less than 5 oz. of mixed light green to cover my Argus.
Only problem is that dope will eat the base coat up. Doesn't seem to bother the clear. (??)
Oh yeah, they sure don't give it away, but it does go a long way!
Bill <><