All,
I have been flying electric planes since 1978. Yeah, they were really clunkers back then. Picked them up and put them down several times between then and now. Started really coming into its own maybe 3 or 4 years ago and really bloomed in the last year or so. Now electric C/L has become a real possibility. I would like to share some thoughts for those who have not been through the time, aggravation and $$ of electric modeling. These are in no particular order yet. Mike P., chime in here if I get off track.
-Log on to EZonemag.com and just start reading anything that sounds interesting, especially the Power Systems section. There are a BUNCH of highly knowledgeable people who, very much like this site, are quite willing to help just for the asking.
-EDIT: Electrics have a very well developed cottage industry for limited production high tech motors, gearboxes, aircraft as well as the various bits and pieces necessary to make things work. EZone is the place to find out about this. There is even a "vendors" forum so users can post the the good and not-so-good experiences they have had with vendors. They have a good search engine, and if all else fails find a likely looking area and post the question there. If the moderators think it belongs somewhere else, they will move it for you.
-Get a copy of Motorcalc from Motorcalc.com and learn to use it. You can download it free for 30 days, then you have to pay about $35. Worth every cent. It is great for getting a project vectored in to a starting place and throwing out non-viable set-ups. You will have to adjust for the plane being C/L, of course.
-Buy a good battery charger. Expect to pay $50 or so for a low end lithium-poly "LED status" Charger, around $120 for a very good battery analyzer type charger (Like an Orbit, a Triton or an Astro 109), up to several hundred for a charger for a high end, high cell count charger (like a Schulze). The battery analyzer type can tell you how much charge was put into the battery and what the voltages at the start and finish are. I use both types: an Orbit when I want detailed data about the battery under charge and an Apache 2500 LED status one when I don't.
-Get some type of current measuring tool and use it. Simulate the set-up with Motorcalc THEN test it to make sure. It is REAL easy to over prop a motor and blow the motor, ESC or the li-po battery pack, or even all three (we won't go into how I know THAT...). It is just as easy to UNDER prop a motor, not get the power you need and not know why (been there, too). Astro Flight sells a "Whattmeter" which goes in line with the battery and displays the voltage, current and wattage of the motor under test. I also bought a Sears clamp-on ammeter for $50 and it works well.
-Buy the best equipment you can afford. Big surprise here. There are a lot of "clone" motors out there and while they are affordable, they are not as efficient or as powerful for a given size. The German motors like Plettenberg and Hacker are some of the best made. They are also more expensive. Another big surprise. I think Mike went to a Plettenberg "outrunner" (more on that later) to get the most efficient set-up possible. The same goes for batteries. The industry standard is Thunderpower. There are a couple more companies that are starting to gain on them real fast, though, like Tanic. Buy good wire, plugs and connectors, like Deans Ultra, Sermos or Astro Zero Loss. High current operation puts a big load on the connectors and they need to be sized properly. I use Deans Ultra.
-There are two basic configurations of brushless motors. One is the standard motor which has the magnets inside the windings and can spin at 30,000+ rpm. Obviously, gearboxes (sometimes with as much as a 6:1 or more ratio). The other is the "outrunner", which has the magnets outside the windings and the outer case spins much like a rotary engine. Outrunners do not require a gearbox and are less flexible than the first type. They take more "fiddling with" but can give very good (and very quiet) performance.
-EDIT: Igor reminded me (THX!!!) in another post that I forgot to talk about props. Props for electrics are very different than those for nitro. Electrics seem to like bigger props with undercambered blades much like the four strokes. Also the optium blade shape is much different than tht for nitro. APC and GWS have some of the best generally available electric props, with APC having the most in a usable Stunt size. There are a number of other "specialty" props, mostly folding ones made for gliders that are highly developed and very efficient.
-A Mel D. "rule of thumb". A quick way to tell if you have an optium match for motor, prop, ESC and battery pack is that the the motor is very warm, bordering on hot, the battery pack is medium warm and the ESC is warm too. This means all parts of the system are working together and close to the limits of their respective performance limits. Which means you have the lightest possible power system. This is no surprise to this group, but the way to then get the most out of a set-up is to get a good match between the power system and the airframe. It is very interesting for me to say this to this community, because highly experienced C/L guys already KNOW this better than most electric hobbyists will ever understand it. It is just a question of applying that knowledge to electric power.
Wow, this is a lot bigger than I thought it would be. Sorry if it is too long.
later,
Mel D>
EDIT: And it just got a little longer.....-mhd