water-based paints

We have been working up a class on model building to teach local teachers. Problem is that they can't use solvent-based paints in the class room. I have used the polycrylics for clear-coats in place of clear dope, but need some recommendations on what would work for color. It must be hot fuel proof.

Thanks for any help you can provide,
Scott

>We have been working up a class on model building to teach
>local teachers. Problem is that they can't use
>solvent-based paints in the class room. I have used the
>polycrylics for clear-coats in place of clear dope, but need
>some recommendations on what would work for color. It must
>be hot fuel proof.
>
>Thanks for any help you can provide,
>Scott

Ron B.
F4Fguy

We were faced with the same problem in our "Young Aviator's Academy",a summer program for 9-14 yr. olds. We found that artist's water based acrylics worked very well.The one we used was "Ceramcote" by "Delta"It thins and cleans up with water,and is fuel proof to, at least, 15%. All our planes were brush painted,but I see no reason it couldn't be sprayed.the color selection is limited, but all colors are compatible, so you can mix 'most anything you want. Opacity is excellent,one coat is usually sufficient. Gloss is not the greatest,so,if you want shine, a clear poly top coat will be needed.

The Spitfire shown is one of the models from this program.

Nelson Hobby Products has a water based paint that becomes fuel proof if you add the "crosslinker". I don't know if that makes it more hazardous, but it seems likely, if you're spraying. Somebody here uses it, but I haven't seen any actual reports on it (poke, prod). I'm interested. Minwax PolyCrylic is wonderful stuff! Steve
http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html

I've used the Nelson paints.I had a similar idea as yourself to inspire youths to get into the hobby.I can say this about the paint,I had great results and horrible results.Both results were from the same batch of material.Our first trial was a full sized stunter using a Os .46 and Sig Koverall.I mention the type solely based on the fact that high nitro wasn't going to be used here.The manufacturer recommends the crosslinker for nitro over 10%.We used SIg nitrate for base coats then applied the water based per instruction.They tell you in their instructions not to sand with anything finer than 320.I had extreme peeling (sheeting).I contribute this to the nitrate base,although Nelson claims compatibility with this particular method.All water based was applied with sponge brush.Koverall has a very large weave pattern which is the reason we elected to fill with nitrate.A total strip was then the solution in which we used their 2 part water based epoxy primer.Now,cost is getting way beyond anticipated,not too mention time.We encountered no problems after the fix.As for the product on a scale of 1-10 I rate it an 8 even after problems encountered.It does have an odor.I was able to do this indoors a big plus.It dries quicker than any paint I ever used.Itis expensive,so plan your usage.A little goes a long way though and can be returned to original container provided NO CROSSLIKER has been added.The clear works extremely well and I've used this over white house latex paint with 25 % nitro and no crosslinker on 1/2 a ships. The crosslinker has a short shelf life and is marked clearly on the bottle of its termination date.The crosslinker brings a bit more to the cost of the finish.You only use like 4 drops for a full size ship.I elected not to use it .So far no problems.After the paint job with sheeting problem I used the product directly on the raw wood with no base coat.Its a must to paint both sides equally at the same time(rudder and stabs) because warping occurs almost immediately.It dried perfectly fine though.To my surprise,I built a .15 sized ship using Koverall with the water base applied directly over the weave.It worked terrific.I later used an iron to shrink any loosed spots in the Koverall which shrinks tremendously. Good luck,Ken