Making Leadouts exit 1/8 below wing tip center line.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to make a wing tip so that the LO exit 1/8 below the wing tip center line. The reason for this is that I'm building a piped ship. The extra weight of the pipe and coupler being so low would cause me to lower the LO to balance the model "vertically". I was thinking of just tipping the wing tip plate down 1/8. I'll be using the "hole and eyelet" method of adjustable LO. Thanks,
Crist

Crist,

Why the hole and eyelet method when the slider method works so well? Since the hole and eyelet method kinda needs a complete or simi built up tip just lower your slot and holes to the desired exit location. I just put my slider bar 1/8" lower and make the exit on the tip in the lower half of the carved tip. With the slider you can either mount it on the last rib or on a platfrom just inside the tip. I'm in favor of the platform just inside the tip. That keeps the leadouts from dragging on the tip exit hole. I guess that might be what your after too?

Construct a solid tip from 3 pieces, an 1/8" center piece sandwiched between 1" blocks on the top and bottom. Tack glue the whole thing together and carve it to shape. Once it is shaped, the 1/8" center sheet will be the center line for you to follow. With a slider, the bottom of the sheet becomes the top of the Lead-Out exit slot. For you, you can center your holes 1/16" below the 1/8" center sheet.

Maybe I off base here But I don't think that lowering your eyelets at the wing tip is going to make any difference. (Except in another trimming problem). If you had dihedral in you wing that you cause some problems with eyelet exit. I built two pipe ships now, and even with some extra weight below the vertical CG it's minimal. I would like to hear some more input before I would make a change. Could be wrong though.

Scott (been wrong once) Riese

Jim,
I used both the eyelets and slider. The eyelets are lighter (I know, I'm splitting hairs), and really simpler. I fly Intermediate and I don't feel I can take advantage of an "infinately" adjustable LO. I feel that 1/8 or so adjustment per hole is fine.

LAST EDITED ON Jan-18-02 AT 00:11 AM (CST)

Scott,
I'm building a fuse without a turtledeck and the pipe is completly within (just barely) the fuse. I'm using a Brian Eather #5 pipe for 40 to 60 engines on my OS 40 VF. The #5 pipe is rather "large" compared to just a "40" sized pipe. This suggestion came from a very experienced flyer. I would do well to heed his advice.

Look in the latest issue of SN there is a cool little alignment jig for getting the wingtip on straight. You could easily use this tool to line up the LO guide just below center.

The guide I use is 1/4 basswood strip drilled and tapped for 4/40 threads. Then it is split and embeded in the tip. Much the same the eyelet method. Since it is tapped I use 4/40 nylon screws with hole drilled in them for the LO to pass through. This really holds in place well. I have seen those little come loose at the wrong time. The plane doest crash but it sure does mess up your second official on Wednesday.

CHRIS. Let us know how this works. This is why I LOVE this forum. Something new.

Scott(I like it)Riese

Thanks for the suggestions. I most likely will just put the basswood piece below the wing tip plate, then just fair in the sheeting, sand to smooth. I'll let ya all how it works out.

LAST EDITED ON Feb-10-02 AT 08:43 PM (CST)

Guys,
I made the LO by using a 1/32 ply plate, then added a 1/4 thick basswood piece to the bottom. I then used 1/4 balsa for the filler on the bottom and the top. It worked out real well. Since a pic is worth a 1000 words........

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Each tip added only 10 grams to the weight of the wing. I could have used smaller pieces of 1/4 balsa but that will be next time.

Thanks guys,
Crist

LOOKS SUPER!!!!!!