AkroMaster

Instead of trying to post this in the thread where the subject matter was discussed I just thought I'd start a new thread.

After what seemed like an eternity I've finally finished the Akromaster that has re-introduced me back to building models again after 16 years away.

Would like to thank everybody that answered questions I had. The one thing that hasn't changed about the hobby is that the people are good to one another...for the most part

well here it is
Sig Akromaster
Blue is Monokote, red is rust-oleum, Canopy is a Brodak Bearcat canopy, because I melted the Sig one!
OS LA.15 standard wedge tank.
Bob Reeves scales (thanks for the help and tips Bob)
18.5 oz. with 1/2 oz CG wt. to the tail. total 19oz.
Came in much lighter than I thought it would.
Waiting for a calm day to FLY!

catdaddy

[photo not recovered: RicksAcro.jpg]

Nice! Can't wait to get mine done too.

Great looking little Akro! It really catches the eye, I like it!

Cool picture To bad we didn't have time to let the glue on the flaps dry.. This is a nice looking plane and should be a good flyer...

Nice one! I've just been to the LHS to get my replacement leadouts after I cut the originals too short! Looks like it should be fine. I doubt mine will look as nice as yours.

Did you put any of the silkspan on it at all? I'm not convinced that it'll be anywhere near strong enough.

Thanks and have fun flying! Let me know how it flies.
Jon

>Did you put any of the
>silkspan on it at all?
> I'm not convinced that
>it'll be anywhere near strong
>enough.
>
>Thanks and have fun flying!
>Let me know how it
>flies.

>Jon

Thanks for the compliments guys.
The secret to a nice looking plane is all in the photo (thanks Bob)
No Jon, silkspan was not used. I used Monokote to cover the Fuse and horizontal stab. Basicaly everywhere you see red is two coats of rust-oleum every thing else is monokote.

I will let you know how it flies...hopefully soon.

I was interested to see the engine choice and weight here. What is the average weight of an Akromaster? I'd like something to aim at while I'm building, even if I don't change anything!

I'm aiming to put my OS 10FP in mine, and maybe try building a lighter one for my PAW09. My last homebrew effort (which was a good bit larger, but built very slight) weighed in at 18oz and only the OS without the muffler really made it go well.
I guess the LA15 should be the right amount of power (are you using the muffler?)

The PAW when on a really good run did come quite close though. That was after I got it fixed back at the factory, and I guess it was struggling a bit with the dodgy main bearing before that point.

It'll be interesting to see how yours cope with the LA15. I might even try my new PAW 15 on my standard Akro if it's a go-er!

Clever color coordination. What with the blue LA and the Perfect tank painted red, even. Even matching numbers and a blue "OS" decal. You devil, you.

Like you're getting it dressed for a trip to Grandma's.

>I was interested to see the
>engine choice and weight here.
> What is the average
>weight of an Akromaster?
>I'd like something to aim
>at while I'm building, even
>if I don't change anything!
>
>
>I'm aiming to put my OS
>10FP in mine, and maybe
>try building a lighter one
>for my PAW09. My
>last homebrew effort (which was
>a good bit larger, but
>built very slight) weighed in
>at 18oz and only the
>OS without the muffler really
>made it go well.
>I guess the LA15 should
>be the right amount of
>power (are you using the
>muffler?)
>
>The PAW when on a really
>good run did come quite
>close though. That was
>after I got it fixed
>back at the factory, and
>I guess it was struggling
>a bit with the dodgy
>main bearing before that point.
>
>
>It'll be interesting to see how
>yours cope with the LA15.
> I might even try
>my new PAW 15 on
>my standard Akro if it's
>a go-er!
>
>Jon

Jon,
I have no idea what the average wt. for the Akro should be. I'm guessing that a stock no-mods version should probably be some where between 19-21 oz. Some one else might be able to give you a better idea. Mine came in a lot lighter than I thought it would. It being my first in 16 years I thought I'd be on the heavy side. Our flying field in Tulsa doesn't require us to use mufflers so I don't. I was a little concerned about putting so much power on this airframe, but if I don't like it I know my son will. He is just 16 and has very, very good reflexes and likes his flights HOT. We're going to try it on some 52'lines as soon as the winds and temp allow us to.

Currell,
I've got a really nice "Powered by OS MAX" decal on the inboard side. If this thing flys half as good as it looks I'll be happy...lets just hope it doesn't meet the big bad wolf on the way to grandma's.

My daughters Akro weighed in at 23oz, with an Enya 19 for power.
A porker compared to my son's Jr Streak at 17oz. Hey, it was the first plane I've built in 20 years, and weight wasn't something I paid much attention to until I started learning quite a bit here. I'm working on another one now, for my son. It's kit bashed a little, modified tail with rudder moved forward and solid elevator, like a Ringmaster. Just traced the stab and flipped it over.
I'll try to get this one a little lighter, now that I know better. Fox 15 slant plug for power on this one.
The Akro is a nice flying airplane. Enjoy!

I pulled out my Akromaster with and old OS 15 baffle piston and 1/2 oz of tail weight and got 18 oz on the chihuahua scales. This with ultracoat and dope. Sounds like everybody is in the ballpark. Its a super flyer at this weight on .012 X 52s and 8/4 APC.
Jim

LAST EDITED ON Jan-29-02 AT 02:03 PM (CST)

LAST EDITED ON Jan-29-02 AT 01:57 PM (CST)

I have two akro's the first one was built about nine years ago
it is a stock kit effort covered with aluminum Micafilm and
finished with dope and talc over sprayed with several hideous
coats of aluminum polyurethane..powered by a SS 2.49 diesel..
It weighs 17.5oz's with spinner and prop..this is a five oz.
engine..it has a 10oz/sq' wing loading..putting it in the
mini-elefant category..it will fly the full stunt pattern..
but not crisp..it's a great fun flier for lazy kick-back days.
my other Akromaster was scratch built about two years ago..
same dope/talc prep.. airbrushed aluminum lacquer finish and the
wing is covered with clear Micafilm...powered by an MP-Jet 1cc
diesel..total weight with prop is 12oz's which is 7.1 oz/sq'..
this Akro's flight performance is vastly better than the 17oz
one...my suggestion is to use an engine with sufficient power
to pull the model..and try for an 8oz/sq' wing loading or less..
I think this means that your PAW .09 will work very well.. so
would any strong 1cc-1.49cc glow or diesel engine..and of course
the early Fox .15 is a legendary powerplant for the Akro...
Xain please save your PAW 2.49 for a Flitestreak...or you will
end up with a PAW powered mini-elefant too...Tony

Just took mine down to weigh it at the post office and it came out to 18.3 with the old baffle Fox 15. Looks like you did a bit better than I did considering you have an ounce+ heavier engine and 1/2 OZ in the tail. Yours ought to really move out with the modern 15 up front. Maybe it will be warm and calm enough on Feb 3 to get eveybody out and we can see it fly. The field was still a little soft on Feb 2 from all the recent rain.

Are those of you who are running the Fox .15 baffle engine on your Acromasters using a stock muffler, muffler of another type, or no muffler at all? Did you have to add tail weight to the plane? Just curious as I am getting an Acromaster ready to go and will probably use a Fox .15 with stock over and under bolt on muffler......T.Durrill

>Are those of you who are
>running the Fox .15 baffle
>engine on your Acromasters using
>a stock muffler, muffler of
>another type, or no muffler
>at all?

Terrence: I don't have my Fox .15 baffles on an Acromaster (mine are on a Streak and Ring Jrs), but, anyway, I don't bother with mufflers. I have a crabby guy, near the flying field, who bitches about unmuffled .35 or so Foxes, but these little .15s really don't make that much noise.

This is what makes the old baffle .15s such a good schoolyard choice.

Ever heard a modern FAI combat .15? Oh my ... Currell

Hey Elwyn,
I was wondering if you guys made it out to fly Sat. I had to work. I'm suppose to be working right now but I thought I'd take a break and let every body know that Dakota and I test flew this beast Friday.

I took off work early and picked up the boys from school and headed for the baseball field here in Skiatook. We let Tucker fly his Skybaby first and he did his first loop, it was a sight to see.

We launched the Akromaster next and launch is an understatement. Blast off would be more appropriate. 3.7 sec laps 52' lines 8x6 prop. It turned very quickly and I managed a fair begineer pattern with the exception of the square loops. This thing was just to fast. Dakota loves it though. His flight started off with a takeoff wingover! It looked pretty cool, I gave him 39.5 points for it

Can't wait to fly with you guys again the boys and I miss you guys. Maybe next weekend!

later,
catdaddy
p.s. anybody have any suggestions on how to slow this thing down with out going to a Fox .15 baffle. It just looks to cool with the LA.

Try an 8x4 prop to increase your lap times. That's what I use on my Fox .15 powered Akromaster. It flies very well on .012" x 52' lines so equipped.

No Muffler on mine either & no tail weight used.

LAST EDITED ON Feb-03-02 AT 08:24 PM (CST)

Here is a picture of my "Fancherized" Akromaster. We have had several stock at our field and all have been extremely nose heavy with their OS 15, Fox 15BB, and even the Norvel 15. Hope the picture turns out!--hmmm, just the link!

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/User_files/3c5dee157824e572.html

At the time I was starting a Fancherized Twister, and thought I'd practice on the Akromaster.

Power for this is an OS10 FP, with a Brodak tank (has "Fox" stamped on it though!). Prop is an APC 7-4.

I have also run an old Fox 15 baffle, but the vibration was tremendous. I think this will be the last time I put a tripler on a profile. For me at least it seems to move the resonant frequency right up to where the engine wants to run!

Covering is Mica Film and Rustoleum on the fuse. I have flown it a few times before the winter closed in. It has a slight warp that I need to take out, but otherwise it flies great on 52 foot line (12 thousandths).

LAST EDITED ON Feb-03-02 AT 11:11 PM (CST)

>Here is a picture of my "Fancherized" Akromaster. We have had
>several stock at our field and all have been extremely nose
>heavy with their OS 15, Fox 15BB, and even the Norvel 15.
> Hope the picture turns out!--hmmm, just the link!
>
>http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dcforum/User_files/3c5dee157824e572.html
>
Alan, that wasn't the valid graphic address. It points to some html code of some sort that didn't "read" as regular HTML when I clicked on it, more like the foreign langage versions, such as what you see on a Japanese web site that our systems don't understand properly. Graphics files on the net end in a different suffix, such as "GIF" or "JPG". Next time, try this: right-click on the actual picture you want to paste an address from and choose "copy address", then you can paste that in, or stick it in a Notepad document for a couple of minutes if you're fearful of dropping the copy out of the clipboard area.

>At the time I was starting a Fancherized Twister, and thought
>I'd practice on the Akromaster.
>
The Akromaster is relatively "small" and a small engine weight difference can make for a comparatively far forward nose-heavy balance. I personally would be much more likely to move the empennage further away than to lengthen the nose, if I felt that I had no choice about an "overweight" engine, but the various OS 10's like the FSR and FP are nowhere near as bulky as the larger OS Max's from 15 to 40 have been compared to old baffle engines.
>
>Power for this is an OS10 FP, with a Brodak tank
>(has "Fox" stamped on it though!). Prop is an APC
>7-4.
>
>I have also run an old Fox 15 baffle, but the vibration was
>tremendous. I think this will be the last time I put a tripler
>on a profile. For me at least it seems to move the resonant
>frequency right up to where the engine wants to run!
>
Actually, I can't recall ever noticing any small engine (I think of 15's or smaller as "little", sorry about that, Larry Renger!) that vibrated much. I've had 2-3, maybe 3-4 of the various 15 size Fox baffle type engines, mounted on Jr. Streaks, Midwest Warbird-15 designs of various sorts, a couple of Jr. Ringmasters, and some of Midwest's mini-Matadors called the Firefly.

I've run a variety of props with them, a variety of fuels, and a variety of fuel systems. My kids would enjoy going flying if they had planes with 049's and 15's on them to fly themselves, so I always had several of those apiece on hand.

It never seemed "necessary" to add a tripler or cheek cowl, although I did whip up a Shoestring or Buster style cheek for one or another of those planes, and put a Mustunt-style upright mount on another . .

Kiwi

P.S. Elwyn, what was it you are looking at when you answered this thread? Would I see something different with IE instead of Netscape?

LAST EDITED ON Feb-04-02 AT 05:33 PM (CST)

Nice looking ship! It's probably just the way colors come out on my computer, but it looks like the the engine(except for the head) is painted to match the fuselage.
Kiwi- I'm using Internet Explorer.

The link worked fine for me using IE ... I don't use Netscape so can't say.

I've got *another* question for you all. What do most of you do to finish the fuselage? Over the years I've gone from dope, to tissue to nylon. Tissue was okay, but not very strong, whereas nylon was brilliantly strong, but really fiddly to get round the edges.

On this model I've fitted the wings before covering anything, and it's got a lot more shapes to work around, like the dowels and the plywood doublers that step down to the balsa. I'm wondering whether it's worth putting a material down or jut doping it and painting it. I'd like this plane to look nice, but I also don't want to keep putting off the job if it seems hard, and it's probably going to have a very rough life while I learn the pattern.

It seems most of you just put Rustoleum on the solid parts. Does anyone know a UK equivalent of Rustoleum? Hammerite Smooth? Laquer? Cellulose?

Cheers
Jon

>I've got *another* question for you
>all. What do most
>of you do to finish
>the fuselage?

Jon,
I used Monokote and Rust-oleum on this Akromaster and I'll probably use the same thing on every model I build from now on.
Part of the reason is my nose. Too much of the dope fumes did I breath when I was a teenage builder and I can't be around it now at age 45 without sneezing my head off. While monokote is expensive it is very easy to work with and easy on the nose.

I'd also like to add...to any young builders out there reading this, If you are going to use silkspan and dope please do it with the proper equipment, (mask) and in a well ventilated area. If you don't you may regret it as I do. I've had two nose operations and a butt load of sinus problems, all of which I attribute to my stupidity in working with these highly toxic materials.

Okay, so was it Rustoleum *over* the monocote for the fuse?

>Okay, so was it Rustoleum *over*
>the monocote for the fuse?
>
Sorry not very clear was I?
Here is my finishing process step by step.
Sanded entire model
cleaned
Rust-oleum over the areas that are red (nose, wing center section, flaps, elevator, vertical stab and rudder.)
sanded painted areas
cleaned
second coat of rust-oleum
Monokote over wings, fuselage, and horizontal stab.