Hello fella's,
Just thought I'd pass on a little something that I've been using for the last couple of builds.
I've not been a real big fan of getting close to wood work with the mini torch, or soldering iron. I like the torch with it's quick to heat operation, but close in work next to wood kinda turns me off. The soldering iron is somewhat slower to use. So what to do? Enter Loctite 609 Retaining Compound (liquid). I should mention that this stuff will not work with the standard "washer install" (I don't think anyway?, never tried it.) on the 1/8 rod as you would normally use in a solder install. I've worked around that problem also....automotive replacement brake line material (the steel brake line tubing).
Automotive hydraulic brake line stock has 1/8 I.D. that is perfect for sliding over your piano wire rod, ...check the i.d. before you buy. It cuts easy with a tubing cutter. And can be used for making up the required shim spacers to ensure the bellcrank runs in the correct position (top to bottom) on your 1/8 mounting rod. The brake line stock works great for this use as it's got a larger wall thickness then standard modeling tubing. It will not need extra surface area for a general install, as might be the case with K+S Metals thin wall stock. The only place that the extra large surface of a washer will be needed is at the interface between the bellcrank bushing (the nylon one if using SiG or Brodak b-cranks) and the brake line tubing shim.
What I do: I cut the 1/8th piano wire to correct length so that I've got approx. 3/16 or 1/4 excess at each end that protrudes through the mounting ply gussets at the top and bottom of the wing. In my case these ply mounts are located above/below the double spars which run along the top of the wing and along the bottom side of the wing. With a tubing cutter I then section off two pieces of brake line material approx 3/16 to 1/4 inch long, these will be the end caps that hold the rod in place top and bottom. As with any tubing cut with roller cutter, you will have to be-bur the cut ends, ..but only do one end of each of the caps. The bur you leave behind will make a nice "stop" so the cap will not slide all the way down the rod, ..that's if you would not like it to do so. If you opt for the closer fit, de-bur all cut ends as needed. I've found the 1/8th inch drill bit in the "Bat Drill" (battery operated drill) does this very nicely.
Position the 1/8 inch rod, bellcrank bushing (nylon), bellcrank bushing washer, into the mounting gussets and measure the distance for the needed shim. Measure from the top of the bushing washer to the underside of the top ply mounting gusset. Cut this measurement from the brake line stock with the tubing cutter. De-burr the ends of the shim tube.
Take the Loctite 609 and put a drop on the end of the 1/8 rod, and slide one of the end caps (brake line material) over this drop and let it set. Go back to sanding on the fuselage at this point. When you come back in 20min.s or so it will have set up like a weld.
With all the control main pieces ready to go for the final install, slide the parts together. It may go something like this: 1/8 rod with cap, slide through bottom ply gusset,...next install b-crank bushing (nylon), ..next goes on the bellcrank, ...next comes the b-crank bushing washer, .. next is the shim tube, ....now push the remaining 1/8 rod length up through the top ply mounting gusset, ..then a drop of 609, then the final brake line end cap, ...done. Let the last drop of 609 setup.
Give it the 20 min. set time (approx. time, as I've never timed the process) and your done. No heat, rock solid install using your basic hardware kit. Only change is the brake line stock. This 609 has a high temperature operation range, as it's suited for engine moving parts. It will not break down in the mundane use in a c/l model control system.
Other uses. Cut small brake line caps as above, put a drop of 609 on your 1/8 landing gear legs, and presto, "NO Nut" wheel retainers.
Some may be using C.A. to do a similar install, ..It may work the same but I've never tried it, don't trust it in a nitro environment. 609 I know will work. 609 also comes in two different sizes that I've seen. A small 1/4 ounce (?)tube packaged in a rack mount blister pack, or the larger 1.69 oz's bottle. The small tube will be enough to do many control systems as it only takes a drop for what we need. Regards.
Tony
. Fellow model dude, r/c boat racer, a.k.a the "Hydro-King" and I are planning to take in the meet in your neck of the woods, ..Owosso, MI. He relates that there are lots of neat stuff to be had here. Not sure of the c/l content but.... Details follow: