Talc for Filler

Also, it is completely odorless.

Might be worth a try.

When I was a lad, I bought a container of talc at an Army-Navy
Surplus store in Spokane. As I recall, it was a round tubular cannister about 2.5" dia, very generic looking, and cost me $.99 plus tax. Funny what I remember from 40 years ago, and dismaying what I forget from yesterday. Anyway, you might try the surplus stores near you. Steve

Another source that I used 25 years ago was dive shops, e.g. scuba diving shops. One of the old ways of preserving a neoprene wet suit was, after the fresh water rinse, was a sprinkling of talc. The dive shops sold unscented talcum powder.

Its been a while since I squeezed into a wet suit. And, you may not have any dive shops in your area. But, if there is bulk unscented talc to be had, possibly some of the old time divers would know.

Be sure to replenish before the wife catches on. Don't ask me how I know about that one.

>Bob: What proportions of dope and
>cornstarch do you use?
>I used about 1 1/2
>teaspoons to an ounce of
>dope. I thought that
>it would be too thick,
>but I was really surprised
>how fulid it remained.

Has worked well for me. I wasn't too scientific. I mixed up some dope (Randolphs butyrate, about 20 years old now...) and thinner, and thinned it by eye. This stuff is real thick, so I really don't have a comparsion. Total amount was about 12 fluid ounces. I then mixed in about 3 or 4 tablespoons of corn starch and stirred. Went on with a brush. A little tedious, but Santa hasn't brought the air compressor yet...

After applying and sanding, I sealed the surface with a last coat of clear before color (lightly sanding afterwards with 320).

I am a pitiful finisher, and admit it. I only made the recommendation because it worked for me. Leonard and his son Matt, on the other hands, are masters, as evidenced by their Stuka scoring very highly in appearance points in this year's Nats. I am glad that you like the corn starch, but listen to Leonard for finishing - he and Matt know what the heck they are doing. I am a duffer.

The filler can be brushed on even if you are spraying everything else. Put it on relatively thick. Then sand it off (when it is dry. With SIG dope that means a week. With Brodak you can sand after a day.) You sand until it is almost all off again, leaving only the filler that fills the grain. Remember, the filler is heavy. Matthew has learned to do this quite well, and his total weight gain on a 630 square inch ship--from BARE WOOD--starting with the silkspan, going through the filler, color coats and final clear coats is only about 7 ounces. But you could add 2 or 3 ounces of filler if you don't sand it down until just the grain is filled.

Another good filler that Matt has used on his last couple of planes is the zinc stearate (sp?) based filler supplied by Randy Smith. This is a bit more expensive and, perhaps, not something that the "average Joe" would go for. But it is another choice. You don't have to add as much of this to the clear, as may, also, be the case of the corn starch.

But, whatever you use. Be sure to sand, sand, sand. That is the key to a good finish. If the base is not perfect, the top coats will show it. Ever see a car painted by Earl Scheib (or MAACO)? They "forgot" to sand the paint chips, didn't they? And it shows.

Leonard:
Thank you, once again, for your generous and helpful comments.
In the test that I did, I started with raw wood only out of impatience. Since I was looking for only a rough comparison, I do not think that the results were invalidated. Certainly on a plane I would never start using filler on a surface that had not been properly prepared. Your admonition, nonetheless, is appreciated. Being reminded of the basics - - many of which I am still learning - - never hurts.
Your suggested proportions for using talc were especially appreciated. Frankly, I would not have thought to use color as part of the formulation. This just shows how much of the basics I still need to learn. Having read that suggestion, however, it makes sense.
By the way, I did take your advice and visited a billiard supply shop this morning. I purchased their last can of unadulterated talc, specially formulated for pool players, of course. Your suggestion was, as usual, right on. It seems different from the baby powder talc that I used for my "test." It seems heavier by volume and, although slippery/slick as can be, it does not have the slightly oily feel that the baby powder type did. Its density makes obvious the need, as you put it, to SAND, SAND, SAND. In a similar vein, on another forum someone used as his signature: "The difference between a good ship and a great ship is sandpaper."
Finally, I want to echo the appreciation expressed by others in a different thread for your unselfish efforts in running this forum. It sure is a great help to duffers like me.
Be well!
Peter Hess

Fills better, paint sticks to it and a lot less is required than talc.

See Ya

1. Mix/thin dope to brush consistancy.
2. Stir and shake in 1/3 vol. of talc.
3. let sit for 1/2 hr.
4. Pour off top into a fresh jar.
5. THAT is your filler!
6. Allways stir/shake before use and you'll do fine!

PS
Remember! Its not how much filler you put on! Its how much you sand off that counts! Sanding filler is a huge pain-in-the-arm but necessary for that hot-rod-pretty paint job.