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larry cunningham's New Mexico Universal Engine Mounting Syst...

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 3 of 3 known posts recovered

the_elmores · Nov 08, 2000 10:15 AM

larry cunningham's New Mexico Universal Engine Mounting System#0 source
What is this and how much does it cost?

I am thinking of building a U-key 35 and would like to try it with as many different motors as possible - I was going to do this by botlting the motors on a 'standard' 1/8 metal plate which was in turn bolted to the model!

Cheers

VolvoBird · Nov 08, 2000 12:02 PM

RE: larry cunningham's New Mexico Universal Engine Mounting System#1 source
I do not know whether these are commercially available. Others who are much more knowledgeable than I might be able to let us know.
After trying unsuccessfully to make them myself out of 2" wide 1/8" aluminum bar stock, I took a dimensioned drawing of what I needed to a local machine shop. With the stock provided by me, I paid $8 a piece for them.
If you want to read about them, see the terrific article by Larry Cunningham called "Constructing Fuselages for Strength" in the March/April 2000 issue of "Stunt News" (pp.46-50).
I decided to try the NMUEMP because I, too, wanted to experiment with different engines on my three reengineered Skyrays that are, after a very long time, nearing completion.
If you decide to try these to be able easily to interchange engines, you will quickly find that you will have to cope with different engine case widths. My solution to this was to size the NMUEMP for the narrowest case in the selection of motors I intend to use. It is relatively easy, then, to then file say 1/32" off of each mounting arm just where the engine case sits in the "U" to accomodate an engine with a wider case.
I hope that this is somewhat helpful.
Peter Hess

Steve Helmick · Nov 09, 2000 01:25 AM

RE: larry cunningham's New Mexico Universal Engine Mounting System#2 source
LAST EDITED ON Nov-09-00 AT 01:28 AM (EST)

There are a couple of ways to do this. The way Larry C came up with was to countersink flathead machine screws on the back side of the plate, and put washers/elastic lock nuts on to hold the engine to the plate. The plate is then bolted to the airplane with "blind" or "T" nuts in the airplane. An earlier version used by others simply tapped the 1/8" aluminum plate for the engine screws, but this is not enough thread by any engineering or machine shop rule of thumb, particularly in soft grades of aluminum. Nobody makes these as commercial items, as far as I know, but you might call Windy U. If you have to buy the tools to make one, it will cost more than $8, for sure. Steve