>At even an Inermediate stage these
>adjustable features are not critical.
>Build or fly the plane to the origional
>specs and you really do not have to
>muck with these items. The plane will
>pretty much fly as advertised. The
>pilot still has enough to learn and
>worry about without having to meddle
>with another set of adjustments...
>
>My advice and it's the same
>I'd give anyone, is to
>build a regular profile something
>easy to build and not
>obsess over adjustible this or
>that. Learn to fly it
>in the envelope that the
>designer intended it to fly.
>Most fly quite well as
>is out of the box.
>
>
>One you get past the performance
>envelope of the design and
>are ready to move on
>then, You will have found
>that you really did not
>need those features earlier, and
>will be ready to decide
>whether you wish to incorporate
>them in the next airplane....
>
>Right now just build and enjoy
>the hobby. And leave the
>ajusto-plane for the future.
I am going to take the other side of the argument. I would much rather have the adjustables and never touch them than not have them and never have the plane in trim. Once you get over the fear of crashing, you will learn a lot faster and be a lot happier with a plane that is in trim than with one that is not. In the "good old days" we had adjustables, but we had to use a knife to do it. Not enough tip weight? Cut into the tip and add some. Leadouts in the wrong spot? Cut into that tip and move them. Trouble is, you couldn't make fine adjustments, and in the end you flew a compromise--sometimes a big compromise.
It is nice, if you don't have enough line tension, to add some tip weight. Or if the tip is dropping, to be able to take some out. But the amount of tip weight you use will be dependent, not only on construction (heavier wood on the outboard wing, leadout weights, etc.) but on the diameter and length of your lines, and even such things as your power and lap speed. Leadout location is definitely determined by speed, line size, CG location, yaw, etc. No matter what the plans say, it is a compromise, even if you could duplicate the designers plane exactly.
Now if you fly your plane and are able to move your leadout position just slightly and improve things, won't you be happier? The key is to make one adjustment at a time. Did it improve, or did it go the other way? If it improved things, how about tryhing a little more? If it hurt, go back, and then maybe go back a little further. If you have an adjustable rudder, it is much better than gluing in a half inch of offset because you think you need it. Now you will never know how much better the plane might have flown if you hadn't put that rudder offset in.
Even for a beginner or intermediate flyer, make your plane as adjustable as you can. Then try out each adjustment one at a time. You can still fly a practice pattern while you do this. And when you do that, you can see how much better you can make the plane by doing the finer things that make an airplane a super flyer.
Learning to build and learning to trim are all a part of this hobby. It is not just buy and fly.