Big Country Joe · May 03, 2006 10:33 AM
#0 sourceJJ
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 24 of 24 known posts recovered
Leester
Leester
A BIG FREAKING BOX!!! Fills 1/2 the back end of a 88 Ford Ranger with little trouble. Be fore warned if you need to pick one up to take it home.
Tony Bagley
Sarnia, Ont. Canada
It looks like I ordered two. And got notice that two + two more will be shipped, with two different invoice totals. Well, if anybody local wants one or two, give me a jingle.
FWIW, I'd like to try these engines from inventory: T&L ST .60bb, T&L ST G.51, Double Star .60bb, Double Star .60 Lite SE, SSW Magnum/ASP .53, Magnum XLS .46, and possibly an XLS .52 (that one not in my stash). If this thing weighs 60 oz, the G.51 should work fine, but the only .46 I'd try is the Magnum.
Steve
Leester
Mine had the same leadouts. It looks like the bellcrank travel is intended to be limited by a plywood plate on a first rib inboard of the centerline. The bellcrank is limited by design to only move about 3/4 inches each way. So if the model is flown as designed, the leadouts would be of adequate length. I am thinking of flying the model as is for the first few flights to give it an evaluation in the stock form before hacking away at the control system very much.
At Texarkana Richard Oliver was flying an Arf that was built for RC as a control-line stunt plane. I don't remember the details off the top of my head, but I flew it and it has much potential.
Sounds like it'll need fairly narrow handle spacing, in that case..
Please repair all divots
Stan Well constructed, nicely covered.
Overall weight of all stock components: 50.6 oz.
This means that the LA 46 is out of the question, an ST 51 will definitely be required.
I checked to see if a piped 40 would work. Based on how low the wing sits in the fuse and the cowl spinner location it would require a lot of work.
A 4 inch bellcrank transplant will require cutting of another bellcrank access hole ahead of the main spar, and grinding of the plywood bellcrank stop. Not sure of the leadout hole spacing in the ribs.
I'm also curious about what kind of construction is inside the wing in regards to the landing gear clips.
I may cut open a couple of bays on the bottom to explore that and the ribs holes.
The tank is a 5 ounce plastic job of triangular shape.
When I get around to the bellcrank I may post pics.
Phil Spillman
The engine is offset 1/4 inch to the inboard side to no doubt compensate for the wideness of the nose and muffler spacing.
The flaps and elevators are sheeted built up structures.
The pushrods are anemic at around 1/16th diameter for the flap pushrod and 2 short pieces of threaded 1/16th and an aluminum tube with wooden inserts for the main pushrod.
I will definitely change out the control system to heavier materials and/or carbon/glass pushrods.
Now for the bellcrank, I changed mine out to a 4 inch Brodak unit, a Sig 4 incher will not work in this application.
The stock bellcrank and the rib stop inside the wing:
[photo not recovered: score1.jpg]
I used a dremel sanding drum to open up the rib for more bellcrank travel:
[photo not recovered: score2.jpg]
I cut a hole ahead of the main spar to gain access to the front of the rib and bellcrank, careful here with the sanding drum! I wound up catching the leadout wire and almost severing it:
[photo not recovered: score3.jpg]
Using a hemostat on the stock leadout to hold it in place while I used some medium CA and some kicker to attach the new leadout and fish it through:
[photo not recovered: score4.jpg]
The Brodak 4 inch crank installed, remember to drill out the bushing hole so the stock bolt will go through, and also to remove the nut at the platform otherwise the Brodak crank won't fit height wise:
[photo not recovered: score5.jpg]
It will be awhile before I fly mine as I have to order an ST51 and Adamisin muffler for it. Good luck with yours!
Phil:
Just openend the box and plan to do the STG51 thing. Do you have any idea how the CG worked out with the rather heavy Supertigre?
Jim
Please repair all divots
Another interesting note: the hole for the elevator pushrod in the flap horn and the hole in the elevator horn don't match up height wise. I will either be drilling a matching hole or using a Tom Morris adjustable horn at the elevator instead.