BRODAK ARES QUESTION

Hello again everyone. On my ARES ship. the inboard & outboard wing length difference is about 2 inches. Whats this all about? Is it an alternative to outboard wing weights? Is the idea here that the longer inboard wing provides more lift and pushes the plane away from you? I am trying to get at the reasoning behind it and if it useless, can i build the outboard wing to match the inboard? Thanks for a little knowledge thrown my way. Take care, Todd

Someone else would be better to explain it but it's there for a reason follow the plans & dirrections.

LAST EDITED ON May-07-06 AT 02:03 PM (CST)
 
>Hello again everyone. On my ARES ship. the inboard &
>outboard wing length difference is about 2 inches. Whats
>this all about? Is it an alternative to outboard wing
>weights? Is the idea here that the longer inboard wing
>provides more lift and pushes the plane away from you? I am
>trying to get at the reasoning behind it and if it useless,
>can i build the outboard wing to match the inboard? Thanks
>for a little knowledge thrown my way. Take care, Todd

Build the airplane as the plans state. When it was designed Billy he didn't use much tip weight (clay on the bottom) if I am not mistaken. The extra 2 inches gives inboard wing the right amount of lift. Mine flies great!

Robert Storick
AMA 12366
Saint Louis,MO.

Thanks, I'll keep it per plans. Nice plane. Thanks, Todd

Just a note. Make sure the outboard and inboard flaps are about the same area. In both the Cobra and the Billy Werwage USA-1 I've built(both with considerable asymetry), the original outboard flap was considerably smaller than the inboard. This will cause the plane to roll away from you on control. While not a horrible thing, it is frustrating. I had to compensate on the USA-1 with a rather large tab on the outboard flap. With the Cobra, I compensated while building it and increased the tip chord of the outboard flap to make both the inboard and outboard flaps roughly the same area. If flew flat right off the board.

Good point Randy, Could I just shorten the inboard flap by cutting it at the tip 2 inches and taking that portion and leaving it fixed to the wing and having the remainder control surface match the outboard flap? Todd

Wish I hadn't seen that picture. I may never finish mine now. It will never look that good.

John Thompson

John,

You couldn't use those colors here. The plane would disappear.

And the reasoning is that the inboard wing is flying slightly slower than the outboard (smaller radius flight path) so the inboard wing needs more area to be equal to the outer panel.

Many current designs have settled into about 3/4"-1" of assymetry.

Think of it as simply placing the fuse into alignmnet of the center of Lift (which isnt in the center because of the speed gradient)

Makes sense capt. I appreciate "most" of everyone's replies. Have a good one. Lotsa help. Todd

Todd,

Not withstanding smarta$$ comments, the method you suggest will work fine. I've always just increased the chord of the outboard flap at the tip to increase the area. Cutting off the inboard flap to match the outboard and just attaching the piece to the wing is also a good method.

Sounds like a plan. Thanks Randy, Todd