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Medic and Doctor Areas

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 23 of 23 known posts recovered

Larry F · Jun 09, 2006 07:19 AM

#0 source
Shareen Fancher's Medic and Doctor plans are 300 miles away from me. I wanted to steal the stab, elevator, and wing areas from both, and incorporate them into another flapless profile.

Anyone out there got the numbers? Wing area? Stab area? Elevator area?

Larry Fulwider

Kreth · Jun 09, 2006 07:55 AM

#1 source
Well, how would anyone know where you are since you are hiding in your profile.

Kreth McKee
AMA 22004

Uncle Mikey · Jun 09, 2006 08:04 AM

#2 source
I'll bet Shareen will be surprised to find out she designed the Doctor and Medic.

Mike Keville
Aero Images

Larry F · Jun 09, 2006 09:38 AM

#4 source
Uncle Mikey --

It is widely known that Ted Fancher is a master builder and flyer. It is also widely known that Shareen is the designer and financial brains behind their operation. Ted basically follows orders.

Larry Fulwider

Uncle Mikey · Jun 09, 2006 09:40 AM

#5 source
Larry:

Y'know, now that you mention it, many would probably agree.

(Hi, Ted!)

Mike Keville
Aero Images

Larry F · Jun 09, 2006 12:08 PM

#8 source
I am not sure what you mean by "hiding". Like Popeye, I yam what I yam! And that's all that I yam!

Larry Fulwider

bikemike · Jun 09, 2006 08:20 AM

#3 source
LAST EDITED ON Jun-09-06 AT 09:02 AM (CST)
 
Doctor Wing 586Sq"
Elv 80
Sab 57 Span 21 3/8"

Medic Wing 501sq"
Elv 69
Stab 56 Span 19 5/8"
I got the plans on the floor of my kitchen right now so if theres any thing else you need to know ask.
Here's my doctor.

You don't stop flying cause you get old
You get old cause you stopped flying

Kim Mortimore · Jun 09, 2006 11:39 AM

#6 source

>Here's my doctor. bikemike.

Nice paint scheme! What engine are you using?

It's interesting to me that the Doc/Medic use an 18% airfoil, same thickness as a Flite Streak, but much blunter LE and forward high point, plus turbulator spars. Has anyone ever tried a really thick airfoil on a flapless plane? This would help reduce the need for ultra-lightness and the lack of line tension that sometimes results on ultra-lites. More power required, of course.

Kim Mortimore

bikemike · Jun 09, 2006 11:51 AM

#7 source
LAST EDITED ON Jun-09-06 AT 11:52 AM (CST)
 
As for the paint It's clear dope over silk on the wings with trim sheets cutout for numbers and letters and rustolium on the fuse and tails. I first put a PAW 35 plain bearing which made it fly better than the pilot realy could but then replaced it with a LA 40. The 40 couldn't pull it around so it came to it's end. Still have half if the wing in my shop. Wished I could figure out how to send a bigger and better pic.

You don't stop flying cause you get old
You get old cause you stopped flying

Kim Mortimore · Jun 09, 2006 12:12 PM

#9 source

Silk and clear dope is my favorite, too. Interesting that you were able to use it on a wing structure as light and floppy as the Doc--so floppy that Ted designed in a trim tab to help chase warps caused by sun on monokote--without having the wing end up looking like a huge potato chip. What brand of dope did you use? Any plasticizer added?

Kim Mortimore

bikemike · Jun 09, 2006 12:21 PM

#10 source
LAST EDITED ON Jun-09-06 AT 12:23 PM (CST)
 
Dope used Sig nitrate mixed 50-50 no plastsizer to fill then epoxy clear paint.When I put the dope on I always put it back into its building jig till I get the epoxy on. It's kinda hassle cuse of the fuse but it stays strait. I put the built in adjustible flap and never had to adjust it. I flew it all thru the summer and it never warped in the sun.

You don't stop flying cause you get old
You get old cause you stopped flying

Larry F · Jun 09, 2006 02:19 PM

#11 source
Wonderful response! Thanks much!

Larry Fulwider

Kim Mortimore · Jun 09, 2006 03:17 PM

#12 source
LAST EDITED ON Jun-09-06 AT 03:19 PM (CST)
 
< I flew it all thru the summer and it never warped in the sun. bikemike

Another advantage of doped fabric/paper over iron-on films is that if you can keep the wing straight while finishing it like Bikemike, then the fabric provides extra strength. A classic example is I-beam wings, also typically floppy before covering, which gain much rigidity when covered and painted.

Kim Mortimore

edited for bogus removal

bikemike · Jun 09, 2006 05:00 PM

#13 source
I haven't had much time to build lately and so I covered a Banshee wit a plastic covering. I can tell you I will never do it again (I think I said that before). Me and plastic don't agree on much. It's probly me.

You don't stop flying cause you get old
You get old cause you stopped flying

Kim Mortimore · Jun 09, 2006 06:32 PM

#14 source

How long would a silk/dope/epoxy finish like your Doctor take, including drying time? (I assume the fuselage took less time).

Kim Mortimore

bikemike · Jun 09, 2006 07:01 PM

#15 source
LAST EDITED ON Jun-09-06 AT 07:05 PM (CST)
 
Well if I keep at it I can usualy fill the silk in 3 evenings brushing. As for the epoxy depends on what you use. One evening for automotive clear. I haven't tried Klasskote even though it's made here in MN. You just have to make sure the weave of the silk is filled. I usualy don't get mor than one night in a row to work on planes. Its realy more than that though. I'd say it takes 10 days from doping the bare wood to clear cote.


You don't stop flying cause you get old
You get old cause you stopped flying

bikemike · Jun 10, 2006 10:41 AM

#16 source
I was thinking (somthing that gets me in trouble) and as far as time to paint on the fuse as putting silk on the wing It's a wash about the same amount. When you consider dope then silkspan (glas cloth, carbon fiber, whatever). Then dope to fill. then primer. Then sand and fill all the pot holes. Then seal primer and touch ups. Then paint. Come to think of it maybe it's easer to silk the wings than paint. I usally put my clear over everything including decals, trim, and numbers. I spay the whole plane with clear not just the silk.

You don't stop flying cause you get old
You get old cause you stopped flying

Larry F · Jun 12, 2006 10:02 PM

#17 source
Thanks for the numbers. Not that I doubt you, but that makes for a huge Medic elev. As a rectangle, 3.516 chord (69 in^2 / 19 5/8) seems a little oversized. Did I misunderstand you, or is it really that big?

Your Doctor looks great! Do you like it?

Larry Fulwider
"Poor spellers of the world, untie!"

bikemike · Jun 13, 2006 08:57 AM

#18 source
Well I may have scewed it up so here goes. Span of stab 19 3/4" center cord 3 5/8" tip cord 2 1/4" one elevator span 9 5/8" cord near fuse 3 1/8" tip cord 2 1/8". I hope this helps. I really liked flying it it was better than I was at flying. It's a large plane it looks majestic in the air. Didn't need much trimming just motor stuff. With silk on the wing they were very strong they stood up to 2-# 9s the third one finaly did it in (Outside #9s). Keep it flying fast and it will reward you. Yes Im going to build a new one as soon as I save enough alowance the get a new PAW.


You don't stop flying cause you get old
You get old cause you stopped flying

bikemike · Jun 13, 2006 03:15 PM

#19 source
You don't stop flying cause you get old
You get old cause you stopped flying

Larry F · Jun 13, 2006 03:25 PM

#20 source
LAST EDITED ON Jun-13-06 AT 03:27 PM (CST)
 
Mike --

Thanks for the new numbers! Using your Medic dimensions, I calced 56.20 stab area and 50.53 elevator area. Check, and see if you agree. Drawing it out, it "looks right" with the revised numbers.

I subtracted out the area within the fuselage on the stab. The elevator area does need that adjustment, as it is a split design.

Hah! If I had not been such a fool as to give Shareen the design credit, Ted would probably have jumped in and helped us a little!


Larry Fulwider

Serge Krauss · Jun 13, 2006 04:06 PM

#21 source
>I subtracted out the area within the fuselage on the stab.

Although these areas are comparative, fuselage-blanketed area is normally included. FYI.

SK


Serge Krauss

Larry F · Jun 13, 2006 06:29 PM

#22 source
Serge

>Although these areas are comparative, fuselage-blanketed
>area is normally included. FYI.
>
>SK

Thanks! I wasn't sure. I calc 58.02 including the area in the fuse.


Larry Fulwider