Brass tubing and What Glue?

Thanks

Paul Taylor

~I wish I knew everything you have forgotten about C/L.

I glue the tube in with 30 min. epoxy after soldering a washer to "one side" of it. Usually on the side where the tank is so that ther is a little more glue surface. CA always seems to fail when I have tried it for securing tubing..... Silicone is good for sealing it up.

I am not sure why you need to run a fuel line through a profile fuselage. Normally, the tank and engine are both on the outboard side of a profile. However, you didn't just fall of the back of a turnip trip driving through town, so you likely know what you are doing.

Gears in profiles normally require a brass tube stuck through. I loved Bill's idea of soldering a washer to the tube before gluing it in! That is an idea I will certainly steal! Never thought of it myself.

In general, I prefer epoxy to CYA when adhering metal to wood or anything. Where is my data? I have none, except that in building golf clubs I never had an epoxied golf club head follow the ball. That is not saying CYA is not OK.

Larry Fulwider
"Notes for Blonds -- Mt. Rushmore is not a natural phenomonen"

Well I am not sure I know what I am doing, but I am sure I borrowed this idea from someone.
My problem is that my fuel tank mount broke last week and I just happen to have another one for the SkyRay. Only problem was this old mount was for a metel tank. I now use a clunk tank. But it will not fit up right, but will fit laying down. This makes the vent tube now at half the tank. So I want to put a brass fill tube above the fuel tank so the tank thinks the fill tube is above and I can get a full tank. Also the tube will face clean air from the prop and will add a little air pressure to the tank.
Attached is a dirty drawing to explain it I hope.

Thanks for the help. Expoxy is it.

Paul Taylor

~I wish I knew everything you have forgotten about C/L.

Fixing radiators-Paul Harvey will be proud of you!

J.B. weld works great I pluged a small hole on a gas tank the hole was the diamitor of a 16 penny nail on my YAMAHA RD 400 had no leaks,and I was mixing 2-stroke oil also I have no oil pump so I pre- mixed .J.B. weld will work..
RUBBERTOE

Any of those will work. Since its going to get a lot of fuel on it I would use 5-minute epoxy/

...and as Bikemike mentined, rough up the surface at least in the gluing area. I generally roll the tubing between a pair of sanding blocks mounting 60 grit. Go for an even, brightly speckled look. It adds a lot of texture and gluing surface area.

It might swell the tube diameter, like knurling does. For the use you indicate, that should be no problem. If it is, the bends you show can serve as a 'crank handle' to work the tube through.

5 minute epoxy, as Brett says, is just fine for it. Remember the fairly short working time, though. Make sure no glue - whatever you use - loads up in an open end of the tube. You could slip a telescoping size short length of music wire, or tubing, or even a dowel like from a bamboo skewer in the open end to plug it to prevent glue entry. (Pop out whatever plug *before* the glue cures, of course.)

(edit to add) - Or you could just fuel up with the model's nose pointed down, venting out the fuel pickup line to the needle valve. Surely your flopper tubing isn't so floppy the pickup will fall far from the back end??

The pictures below show the type of tank I have. Mounted upright the fill tube is at the top of the tank. Klunk in the pickup hole. The other hole is not open. I have to fuel the plane with the nose pointed down. I now have the same tank mounted sideways. This puts the fill tube at half a tank. I will run a fuel line from the fill tube to a brass tube running thru the fuse above the tank. This way I can fill the tank to the top.
I hope this helps.

Paul Taylor

~I wish I knew everything you have forgotten about C/L.

What you call the fill line is the vent line. I have these tanks used in both positions. I fill through the pickup line. If the tank is in the sideways position and you fill through the vent line when the fuel hits the pickup level at the inlet it will start trying to put fuel into the engine. There is no vent except the needle valve then. The air is compressed and will force fuel through the pickup line. I run a loop as high as the top of the tank from the vent and then to the muffler if I am using the tank in the sidewise position. It must have this or else it will siphon itself to the level of the vent inlet otherwise. You can run a tube as you are suggesting to keep it from siphoning onto the ground if using without muffler pressure. I fill both upright and sideways tanks with the tail of the airplane down.

I don't think that'll work, yet. Since the air above the "fill" (vent?) tube is prevented from exiting the tank, adding the extra tubing to the vent isn't going to work, either. Fuel will be forced out of the tube once the tank is half full. You'll have to fill the plane standing on its inboard wingtip with the nose pointing slightly up. (Hope you don't use solid leadouts!)

Which is, incidentally, how I did it when I used this type of tank in my last attempt at Slow Combat. The vent tube makes for a natural uniflo vent, being near the outboard wall of the tank. I do this, also, for my 1/2-A "stunters" with the foam wings and profile fuselages. There, I use the 1 oz. or 2 oz. Sullivan Slant tanks, with the vent tube up the "bubble". The bottom of the tank sits against the fuselage, so it's "sideways". Incidentally, I use the plastic tubing provided, rather than the brass.

Clean it (degrease) of course, but leave it smooth.

Bill Adair