Wing Jig for building on the rods

LAST EDITED ON Oct-01-06 AT 03:41 PM (CST)
 
This is my wing jig for rod building. Rather than have to make a new one for each wing I made this one fully adjustable. Using Melamine for the jig I made the bottom of the jig 6' long. I then took a Dado blade and cut slots in it. The uprights are from the same material and are secured with 1/4" carriage bolts and wing nuts allowing them to slide back and forth to accomodate just about any wingspan. The tops where the rods go are fixed in the front while the rear rest is on about a 3" slide. What I like about this set up is that the wing is elevated to where you can really get at it. Looks like I got a little carried away with the downloading and got my engines in there too. My thanks to Walter Umland and my wife for making this post possible.

Bill Morell
Ontario, California

I thougth the wing jig was cool until I saw all the engines.

Man you better start building on that jig and stop messing around on the k-puter.
LOL.

Paul Taylor

~I wish I knew everything you have forgotten about C/L.

Check out my Blog@
http://rootbeard.rcuniverse.com
A link to a slide show of a fun day: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-_sR0ZydSQ

I thought I was addicted to buying engines. I don't feel so bad now. I actually feel motivated to buy more but I've got to pay the kid's tuition instead.

The wing jig is great however, the 'plethora' of engines is the best thing anyone could have done for me !!!!!
I actually coaxed my wife to the computer for a look and now expect that as long as I live (which now might not be much longer), there will NEVER be another complaint about the amount of engines in my possession.
Thanks again - Tony.

OK Bill,
Lets see the kits now. You should get that Fox engine box away from the good engines before they get infected.
Dan

Dan, I agree. I have never been much of a "Fox kinda guy". That engine came in one of those "you buy all of it or none of it" deals. Only 2 fox engines up there on the other shelves, 1 more 40 and a 59. Pics of the kits? Soon...........

Bill Morell
Ontario, California

Hey Bill,
The wing jig looks real good. You will be happy you took the time to make it as it will produce the kind of wings you are looking for. STRAIGHT.....Grins

I used this jig on my Falcon. I measured a new set of holes from the 3/8th" hole from one rib. Marked it on the jig for future referance and in an hour here I am building my 1st. plane in my new shop.

--------------------
we never know how much time we have, we always know how much money: spend both wisely!!!!
Greg Hart <")))><

LAST EDITED ON Oct-03-06 AT 08:44 PM (CST)
 
Hey Greg:

What are you working on now?

Jerry

LAST EDITED ON Oct-04-06 AT 02:31 AM (CST)
 
I have just died and gone to heaven. That engine collection is off the hook!!

Now I know where to go looking next time I'm looking for an engine.

LAST EDITED ON Oct-03-06 AT 02:57 PM (CST)
 
Bill,

When you work on that wing a bit more you may find that you need modifications to your jig. Your center support is going to be in the way when you need to work on the bottom of the wing, particularly if you are trying to sheet the wing while it is held in perfect alignment in the jig. My jig vertical supports are all cut to 8" tall, as my standard height, until the wing is finished. The vertical supports are then cut to whatever heights required to mate the wing with the fuselage in its jig, usually about 3 1/2", but depends upon the height of the fuselage jig.

[photo not recovered: 452257de380ce96b.jpg]

Next, when you lay out the wing for construction on a tube type jig, you must take into consideration the location of the bellcrank, leadouts and flap pushrod. It looks like your front jig tube is going through the area where one would logically install the bellcrank.

[photo not recovered: 452256422cc382fc.jpg]

My center supports are cut well out to clear wing structure during construction and sheeting. When sheeting, these vertical projections from the center support extend upward through the lower wing skin through two small holes which are later patched. This is necessary to hold the wing center in alignment while it is completely sheeted. this photo shows the center support after it has been cut down to mate the fuselage. The center support began, like all of my vertical supports, 8" high, but always cut out for structural clearance, as shown. There is no need to cut out the tip vertical supports as they are always located outside the wing tips and out of the way of structure.

The shape of the center vertical support, actually, the spacing of the two upward projections which hold the center of the full span jig tubes, is determined by the necessary spacing of that particular rib set. This results in center supports which are custon for that particular ribs set tube spacing. I must always replace all three vertical supports because they are cut down for mating the fuselage. Also, the jig tube spacing is nearly always different for each airplane. For my purposes, the jig base is usually the only piece of the wing jig which is reusable. Since I have to replace the vertical supports anyway, and the wooden parts of the jig tube are so cheap, I like to start with all new supports and base. This costs about $10 and takes only about a 1/2 houur to make.

You have a good idea, but maybe it needs a bit more work.

And, for what its worth, I originated this type jig, making the first one forty years ago in 1966 and publishing photos of it in the Mustang article in 1968. Needless to say, the jig too has evolved a bit over the years improving its practicality and finally becoming just part of an integrated jig system for complete airplane alignment.

Al, I thankyou for your advice. I called you several months ago when I was starting to put this idea together. I am in no way taking any credit for the original idea. Fortunately on this wing there is no sheeting so I am safe on that score. This wing is for Larry Scarinzi's Grey Ghost. That I would need to modify it somewhat is no surprise but I needed a starting point.

Bill Morell
Ontario, California

Hey Bill and Al; What are you guys using for tubes? Hardware store variety stuff?
Thanks a lot,
Dan McEntee

3/8" aluminum tubing with wall thickness minimum of .049". My present set has .065 wall. I get mine from a metal supply house. It is possible to get them shipped but I'd worry about getting them bowed in shipping.

LAST EDITED ON Oct-08-06 AT 10:30 AM (CST)
 
Dan, I bought mine from online metals. The first set did come bowed from shipping damage. They were very good about sending a replacement set and strapped these to a piece of plywood in a very heavy shipping tube, no extra charge. Mine are from 2024 alloy 095 thick and very ridgid.

Bill Morell
Ontario, California

So. I also use 1/4" rods for building wings. But I cut some blocks from 3/4" pine stock all exactly the same length. I glue them to my building board with white glue according to the wing plan where the rods will pass between the ribs. After building, the blocks are knocked off the board to wait until the next wing.

No need for fancy wing jigs! All you need are some blocks the same height. Quick and easy.

Floyd in OR

LAST EDITED ON Oct-04-06 AT 08:18 PM (CST)
 
Floyd, I am happy for you. But apparently you haven't looked very close. There is nothing fancy about my jig or Al's. Just very functional. No need to cut new boards or glue them down. You missed the point.

Bill Morell
Ontario, California

>Floyd, I am happy for you. But apparently you haven't looked
>very close. There is nothing fancy about my jig or Al's.
>Just very functional. No need to cut new boards or glue them
>down. You missed the point.

Hey Bill,

I've been looking at this rod jig and got to thinking since we all have didn't ways of building our models we often have a need for different ways of making them so if you could please send me the measurements of yours I think I'd like to give it a shot and make one.

Walter, not a problem. I have had to make a couple of adjustments but so far it seems to be working as intended. Al was right about where the front rod's location is in the ribs in the picture. I didn't have much control over this as that is how I recieved them from the cutter. Not really much more than a minor inconvience. I had hoped that this jig would have gotten a bit more positive responce. That I got a slam from one person came as no surprise as he has also called me a idiot for collecting kits. The money I have made buying and selling them makes me think otherwise.

Bill Morell
Ontario, California

>>Floyd, I am happy for you. But apparently you haven't looked
>>very close. There is nothing fancy about my jig or Al's.
>>Just very functional. No need to cut new boards or glue them
>>down. You missed the point.
>
>
>Hey Bill,
>
>I've been looking at this rod jig and got to thinking since
>we all have didn't ways of building our models we often have
>a need for different ways of making them so if you could
>please send me the measurements of yours I think I'd like to
>give it a shot and make one.

Walter,
I think we all need one if it was a kit?????

Very nice!

I enjoyed your engine collection photos as well.

[photo not recovered: 440deeec35ce0bef.jpg]
"If you would thoroughly know anything, teach it to others." -Tryon Edwards

Thankyou Larry!

Bill Morell
Ontario, California

Hi Crash2much,

That is a great looking wing jig that you have there.

Red Baron:9

E-Mail me at.

[email protected]