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Lincoln logs for a half-A

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 10 of 10 known posts recovered

EbonBetta · Oct 19, 2006 08:32 AM

#0 source
I plan on ordering a set of lincoln logs for trying on my next half-a build. I am a little unsure of what size to have them cut out to. I'm thinking maybe 1/2 " both ront and back and I can make an insert for the v of the leading edge and for trailing edges I usually cut a 1/2 strip of 1/4" stock for the trailing edge. I then sand the t/e down till it smoothly meets the sheeting on my trailing edge which is usually a 1/2" X 1/16 piece top and bottom.
Does that sound right to any of you ?

perretar · Oct 19, 2006 09:03 AM

#1 source
This is my 1/2A Pathfinder in a Lincoln Log set-up. I made the blocks from 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood, dimensions are 2" x 3". I lay them down (2" high) for 1/2A wings, and stand them up (3" high) for 40-60 size wings. I cut different size notches for various stock sizes. The Pathfinder uses a 1/4" square diamond LE so I filled notch with balsa and cut in V-notch. I hot glue or CA only the TE blocks to glass work surface and use aluminum angle up against LE blocks to hold in place. This allows taking wing out jig to turn over and work from either side. I bolt all the blocks together with threaded rod while cutting notches with dado blade on tablesaw, this makes it easy to get them accurate.
Thanks go to Tom Morris..

Allan Perret

DW · Oct 19, 2006 03:14 PM

#8 source
>This is my 1/2A Pathfinder in a Lincoln Log set-up. I made
>the blocks from 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood, dimensions are 2"
>x 3". I lay them down (2" high) for 1/2A wings, and stand
>them up (3" high) for 40-60 size wings. I cut different
>size notches for various stock sizes. The Pathfinder uses a
>1/4" square diamond LE so I filled notch with balsa and cut
>in V-notch. I hot glue or CA only the TE blocks to glass
>work surface and use aluminum angle up against LE blocks to
>hold in place. This allows taking wing out jig to turn over
>and work from either side. I bolt all the blocks together
>with threaded rod while cutting notches with dado blade on
>tablesaw, this makes it easy to get them accurate.
>Thanks go to Tom Morris..
>
>Allan Perret

Ever had one of the moments when you want to smack yourself in head and say "DOH!" Great idea! I'm making some!...LOL
Thanks Allen
Dwayne

EbonBetta · Oct 19, 2006 09:15 AM

#2 source
LAST EDITED ON Oct-19-06 AT 09:17 AM (CST)
 
I have no access to a table saw so I am left with purchasing a set. Its the actual depth and size I am wondering about. I plan to have Tom Morris sell trhem to me once I decide on the size notch I need.
I have a Nice Tempered glass table top I aquired.

perretar · Oct 19, 2006 09:45 AM

#3 source
Notches should match the LE and TE of wing you plan to build,
or have them made larger and you can shim them with balsa sticks as needed.

Allan Perret

EbonBetta · Oct 19, 2006 10:01 AM

#4 source
Thats why I was figuring 1/2 " plenty of room to shim them to match

abborgogna · Oct 19, 2006 10:23 AM

#5 source
Andy Borgogna
I have heard of the Lincoln log jig but this is the first time I have ever seen one. I am assuming you make the notches with a router, if not how do cut them and keep them so accurate. I really like this kind of jig, simple and accurate.
Andy

EbonBetta · Oct 19, 2006 10:54 AM

#6 source
ibelieve he bolts all the pieces togetner and make the cuts with a dado blade on a table saw.

abborgogna · Oct 19, 2006 02:32 PM

#7 source
Andy Borgogna
Who do you have to know to get a set of these? I want one.
Andy

perretar · Oct 19, 2006 05:13 PM

#9 source
You must know someone with a tablesaw, that's all you really need.
Allan Perret