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Spinners

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 27 of 27 known posts recovered

Larry F · Dec 31, 2000 10:43 AM

#0 source
Any tips on spinners? Do the cheap plastic ones work OK? I don't want aluminum $$$ spinners because of both the color and the cost. Anything that doesn't work?

You guys will go where you want, I am sure, but I am only interested in spinners for two bladed props. (You guys scared me to death in the three blade discussion).

Any tips on using them? Forget the Kiwi backflip using the spinner, just normal propping.

Larry F

Scott Riese · Dec 31, 2000 12:41 PM

#1 source
I use plastic, metal. It really dosen't matter However, some flyers use the spinner as nose weight. Some are alot HEAVER then others. The back plates are what I look for. DU-Bro has a flatback plate and Carl Goldburg has a recessed back plate. ALWAYS make sure that when you build your plane that you have the right distance to the back of the back plate. AS for BACK flipping LEARN to do it. TAKE time to see how wet you need to get you engine before it starts. BACK fliping IS the only way to go when you flood your engine. My McCoys, Foxes, even the PA-51 all start easaly by back flipping. I prime the engine flip the prop about ten times(to get the front bearing wet) hook the battery, hold the prop and turn it over to see if you have a bump, if you do put the prop at the top when compression starts and hit the prop BACK against compression IT should start.IF you flood your engine DO NOT put a starter on it or you will bend a rod. BACK flip it!!!! Scott

Nils · Dec 31, 2000 01:25 PM

#2 source
I prefer the plastic ones with allen bolts rather than the snap together type. I have several really great looking chrome spinners that I've been wanting to use but they're heavy. I already have to add tail weight to every airplane I have & I can't bring myself to add even more weight so I can have a shiney nose. One advantage to plastic spinners is they make a great impact absorber. I don't think I've ever bent a crank in a crash when I had one on the nose & I've had some dandy crashes.
Nils

Mike · Mar 18, 2001 06:38 AM

#21 source
Scott, when you say back flip are you talking about counter clockwise flipping your prop? Then you hold the prop and turn it till you feel the compression and "pop"? Only then give it a quick flip on the next stroke?

The Kiwi · Mar 18, 2001 01:30 PM

RE: Spinners and back flipping #22 source
>Scott, when you say back flip are you talking about
>counter clockwise flipping your prop? Then you hold
>the prop and turn it till you feel the compression
>and "pop"? Only then give it a quick flip on the next
>stroke?

Elsewhere today I mentioned Back-Flipping. I use the word "bump" when I describe the FEEL of a combustible mixture trying to ignite. You turn FORWARD to feel that, and flip backward. But something similar has been done by some modellers with just a thumb and forefinger hand-spinning a spinner backward. Personally, I've never tried that version and I don't know that any of the native Kiwis in the land of my birth are doing it.

The starting method that I use is the NORMAL routine in the combat circles, and has been for many years. There are a few innovations in that event that I'll claim I used before anyone else (at least among Texas Combat folks) did, that caught on, but none are named as a Kiwi method.

The electronic handle got started with CB's in the early 1970's, and almost no one around the combat circles knows me that way -- fact is, among the youngest of those folks I've lost my first name and am known as "Mr.," or worse yet, simply as "Jeff's Dad."


Kiwi

._.

Larry F · Dec 31, 2000 01:55 PM

#3 source
Gang --

I was too vague. I want a 2" yellow spinner. Du-Bro has them. Goldberg has them. Tatone and Great Planes have red, which I could live with if you think Tatone or Great Planes are better than the Du-Bro and Goldberg. I don't know of anyone else making colored spinners. If you do, jump in.

Now, if we go yellow, would you choose Du-Bro or Goldberg? If you like neither for quality / ease of use / reliability reasons, would you choose Tatone or Great Planes?

Thanks,
Larry F

Jim T. · Dec 31, 2000 02:51 PM

#4 source
I think Sig has spinners also. I've used both Goldberg and Dubro with good results. I'd go with the Dubro with the bolt-on front cone because snapping a Goldberg on can result in damage to the airplane if you are careless. They will also come apart if you run them at too high RPM (1.5 in spinners on TD 049).

Jim

Jake · Dec 31, 2000 03:38 PM

RE: Spinners (just dye your own!)#5 source
I have always prefered aluminum spinners to plastic. However, if you are set on the plastic jobs (and all of the current crop are nylon far as I know) , why are you worried about the color? Just buy the white ones and dye them ANY color you like using plain old RIT clothing dye. Works great, weighs nothing, the color goes all the way through, and you can mix shades to create whatever color you want. What more can you ask for?

Jake

mcm · Mar 18, 2001 04:24 PM

RE: Spinners (just dye your own!)#24 source
I had no idea. Great idea.
I prefer the plastic spinners with the flat aluminum back plate and single screw through the nose that goes into the thrust plate nut. You usually have to carve the prop openings a little, but I have more confidence in these than either the goldberg or DuBro type. Now, I can make mine yellow!!

Mel · Mar 23, 2001 11:00 PM

#26 source
The latest SIG catalog has plastic/nylon(?) spinners from 1 1/2 inch to 3inch diameter. They show white, yellow, red, blue and black. They say they are made to fit APC brand propellers without alteration.

Mel

LNeumann · Dec 31, 2000 04:22 PM

#6 source
We have used both DuBro and Goldberg. The DuBro is a little easier to take on and off if you are changing props a lot (or breaking them). The Goldberg works fine and doesn't have any screws in it to mar its looks, but can be a little more of a pain if you have to change it a lot. Either can end up being slightly unbalanced (out of round) if that bothers you. This, more than anything, is why we have now gone to aluminum spinners. But the plastic spinners are MUCH lighter, and less expensive than the aluminum spinners. One thing you need to watch out for it not to overtighten the screwed on spinner (DuBro) as you can distort the backplate. (OK, so there is one plus, and one minus on this onbe)

There are plastic spinners with aluminum back plates which give you a little of both worlds, but these, again, add weight...and cost. It is all a matter of what you want. If you are planting planes into concrete then you will definitely want to stick with plastic.

Leonard Neumann

kdheath · Dec 31, 2000 10:22 PM

#7 source
I don't know, Leonard, is a Tru-Turn really significantly heavier than a same-size DB or goldberg? They are certainly more round, infinitely better balanced, and more durable. I would have to be hard-pressed to use anything else. Besides, I never have found a plastic spinner that was a decent color match with anything I did in terms of covering or paint. (BTW, love the Nobler kit that Santa left!)

LNeumann · Dec 31, 2000 11:55 PM

#8 source
Can you say, "Twice as heavy"?

A 2 inch Goldberg weighs .70 ounces while a 2 inch DuBro weighs .85 ounces (heavier because of the two bolts holding it together.)

I don't have a TruTurn spinner to weigh, but I do have a Randy Smith aluminum which should be very comparable--maybe even lighter. You have to weigh everything--including the adapter nut--to compare these. The 2 inch round nose with the lightweight aluminum back plate and lightweight adapter nut weighs 1.59 ounces. Add two grams for the needle nose version. You can shave about .15 ounce off of that with the Titanium back plate and a little more even with the carbon fiber back plate, but the latter flexes, and I am not real happy with that. We have used these, though, to adjust nose weight (and give us an excuse to test the product), but it all gets a bit pricey for the "average Joe". No way around it, they are heavier. But they are a better product and you pay for it.

The top competitors will probably use the aluminum. The sport flyer and lower class competitors will probably (and should probably) stick with plastic--unless, of course, you need the nose weight.

Leonard Neumann

Larry F · Jan 01, 2001 08:51 AM

#9 source

>
>The top competitors will probably use
>the aluminum. The sport
>flyer and lower class competitors
>will probably (and should probably)
>stick with plastic--unless, of course,
>you need the nose weight.
>

I love built in excuses! Thanks! I can imagine the Monday after a contest in Phillipe, WV, and having this conversation with a co-worker"

"Howdja do at the contest?"

"Came in last."

"What happened?"

"Had a plastic spinner."

Just funnin' with you, you know!


Larry F

kdheath · Jan 01, 2001 04:06 PM

#10 source
Didja include the prop nut and washer under the plastic spinners? Evens it up some, I guess. I still prefer to sacrifice a little weight for the balanced running. Everything is a trade-off.

LNeumann · Jan 01, 2001 05:23 PM

#11 source
OK, you are correct. I weighed the thrust washer and nut from an FP and it weighs about .25 ounce. There are heavier ones, but there are, also, heavier back plates and adapter nuts for the aluminum spinner as well. So make it .95 for the Goldberg with all the hardware and 1.1 ounces for the DuBro compared to 1.6 for the lightweight aluminum combination (without using the Titanium backplate or the carbon fiber version). I agree that the aluminum ones are better when we are looks, for durability, and for balance. But the plastic will give one the absolute lightest spinner if that is needed, and it will certainly be cheaper for the flyer on a budget or the one who, occasionally, will pound it into the pavement.

Leonard Neumann

Nils · Jan 03, 2001 03:00 AM

#12 source
I went out & weighed one of the shiny chrome "Magnum Brand" spinners I have ($15.99, aakk!) The 2" one weighs 1.65 ounces (47g), counting the nut. The adaptor nut weighed 11.5g. (Maybe it's plutonium??) I weighed the stock nut (ST.46) & it weighed 3.2g, 8.3g (.29 ounces) difference right there. Does anybody make a titanium adaptor nut? That looks like the place to save weight to me.
Nils

LNeumann · Jan 03, 2001 08:32 AM

#13 source
The ones I get from Randy are obviously considerably lighter. The lightweight adapter nut alone is 4 grams or .15 ounce. With the washer for this adapter nut it weighs 7 grams, or .25 ounce. these are machined round on the upper end so you only have the hex for the wrench at the very bottom. If this whole assembly were made of Titanium, it would weigh .07 ounce less. A lot of the weight (same with the spinner) is saved by simply making things as thin as needed for the strength that is needed. Sort of like people. We gotta get rid of those excess pounds if we wish to stay healthy (been there, doing that.)

Leonard Neumann

Joe bellcrank · Jan 03, 2001 10:48 PM

#14 source
Good looking light weight spinners are hard to find. I've used the plastic spinners on many planes in the past. As noted, they make good shock absorbers in the event of a crash.

For big bucks, I've seen some gorgeous machined magnesium spinners from on of the former Soviet block countries. These are absolutly beautifully machined, fitted, and weigh about the same or a little less than the plastic spinners.

Recently, I believe I've found the best and lightest spinner made. I recieved a Stalker spinner from Modusa with my new ST .40RE. It has the Veco shape, is made from CF with either an aluminum or magnesium back plate. I believe the Nut assy is made from the same material. The shell of the spinner is gel coated white, and the metal parts have a nice smooth black anodising type of finish.

The best part is that this 2" spinner complete weighs in at .6 oz's on one of those great digital scales.

I highly recommend these for those who want to lighten up the front end.

John

LNeumann · Jan 03, 2001 10:57 PM

#15 source
We have a couple of these and they are nice looking, light weight spinners (They have a glass, epoxy one that is almost just as light). The trouble with these is they were made for the Stalker engine which has a longer threaded shaft. They need a longer front bolt or adapter bolt to fit the FP, Magnum or PA engines (which is what we have tried them on).

But if you have a Stalker, they are nice. I am not sure about the balance on them, however.

Leonard Neumann

mcm · Mar 18, 2001 04:28 PM

#25 source
>Good looking light weight spinners are
>hard to find. I've used
>the plastic spinners on many
>planes in the past. As
>noted, they make good shock
>absorbers in the event of
>a crash.
>
>For big bucks, I've seen some
>gorgeous machined magnesium spinners from
>on of the former Soviet
>block countries. These are absolutly
>beautifully machined, fitted, and weigh
>about the same or a
>little less than the plastic
>spinners.
>
>Recently, I believe I've found the
>best and lightest spinner made.
>I recieved a Stalker spinner
>from Modusa with my new
>ST .40RE. It has the
>Veco shape, is made from
>CF with either an aluminum
>or magnesium back plate. I
>believe the Nut assy is
>made from the same material.
>The shell of the spinner
>is gel coated white, and
>the metal parts have a
>nice smooth black anodising type
>of finish.
>
>The best part is that this
>2" spinner complete weighs in
>at .6 oz's on one
>of those great digital scales.
>
>
>I highly recommend these for those
>who want to lighten up
>the front end.
>
>John


Where do you find these? How much is cost?

Flyin_Again · Jan 04, 2001 01:41 PM

#16 source
Has anyone weighed the Tatone brand of spinner? I've been using those for some time now. I'm curious how they match up to some of the other brands. Thanks!

Bill

Steve Helmick · Jan 06, 2001 02:30 AM

#17 source
LAST EDITED ON Jan-06-01 AT 02:34 AM (EST)

You have to watch out for the design of the plastic spinners, as most seem to have recessed backplates. This would require different clearance than an aluminum one. Goldberg's spinners are
flush designs (pretty sure, looked at one in the package last night). There are lots of designs, but you would want to pick a brand that you can get if you need to purchase a replacement after a prang. Either a plastic or aluminum spinner will do your engine some good in case of extra-low flying, by absorbing some of the impact. G'flyin', Steve

LNeumann · Jan 06, 2001 02:25 PM

#18 source
The Goldbergs I have are recessed about equal to the DuBros. With just a little gap you can interchange them quite easily. The DuBros are a little easier to get off, but require a screwdriver. The Goldbergs are lighter and do not have the screw openings to mar the looks.

Leonard Neumann

jimd22 · Jan 09, 2001 09:36 AM

#19 source
So far, a GOOD 1-1/4 dia spinner capable of 25,000 from a Norvel AME or VA has eluded me. Most competition spinners stop at 1-1/2 in - just a little too large. George Brown (speed guy) makes them but I just can't justify $50 for it. What do the 1/2A pattern guys use?

LNeumann · Jan 09, 2001 10:48 AM

#20 source
We had picked up a couple of cheap plastic spinners at a local (60 miles away) hobby shop, believe it or not, but I can't remember the brand. Maybe I can stop off one of these days and see if they still have any and find out who makes them.

Leonard Neumann

Steve Helmick · Mar 18, 2001 04:00 PM

#23 source
LAST EDITED ON Mar-30-01 AT 10:14 PM (EST)

LAST EDITED ON Mar-30-01 AT 10:11 PM (EST)

For small spinners for 1/2a, take a look at Hobby Lobby, I think Graupner makes some that are suitable, bigger sizes too. Different designs than all the rest, maybe will work better (or maybe worse?), but worth a shot. Steve

EDIT: I was kinda right, kinda wrong. Graupner and Robbe both make spinners of 30mm dia (about 1.18"), but Hobby Lobby doesn't show them in their catalog. However, if you check under "props and adapters" at http://www.newcreations-rc.com/index.htm, they do. But no pictures. They also have both Graupner and Robbe glass/nylon props. I think you'd like the Robbe 10-5, 10-6, 11-5, 12-5, and 12-6, good wide blades. This is a hobby shop in Texas that specializes in electric R/C stuff. I got the props I ordered from them in good time. Steve