Cleaning Engines

I did extensive testing on the following cleaning methods for model airplane engines: Water and dishwasher detergent, crock pot and antifreeze, Deamon-Clean, Z-Best, Perfect Model Engine Cleaner, Chemical dip types for carburetor cleaner, Spray-on choke cleaner, sonic and ultra sonic cleaner, Lava soap and toothbrush Spray-on oven cleaner and paint thinners.
The engines were soiled from light gummy oil residue to VERY heavy burnt on and aged oil and carbon deposits. Where possible, I ran several tests on each method
Safety: The most safe method was Lava soap and toothbrush. Next hot water and dishwashing detergent followed by (in order) crockpot and antifreeze, choke cleaner, sonic and ultra-sonic, paint thinners, the three specific engine cleaners, chemical dip cleaners, and last spray-on oven cleaner.
Hazards range From possible hot water burns to chemical burns and eye damage from splashes CAUTION, READ AND FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS where given.
For the VERY HEAVIEST of burnt on, caked oil residue, The crock pot and antifreeze worked best followed in order by Deamon-Clean, Z-Best, Perfect Engine cleaner, and chemical dips. All the others failed to remove more than half the hard baked on crud.
Light to medium soils, Virtually all of the cleaning methods worked very well when instructions were followed except the sonic and ultra-sonic methods which worked best on loose adhering dirts such as sand, filings etc that are difficult to remove from bearings and tight hard to get at crannies.
Some of the cleaning methods did damage to the items being cleaned. Oven spray-on cleaner turned the aluminum BLACK or dark gray and caused etching of the metal. Water and detergent, in every case, discolored the aluminum by turning it a light gray to medium gray mottled appearance that could not be removed. The chemical dips did the same thing, but only if left in the dip for over three days.
Speed. (For medium to heavy deposits) If time is a factor in your cleaning of an engine, Oven spray-on cleaner was quickest. HOWEVER SINCE SEVERE DAMAGE to your engine and physical well-being can occur VERY QUICKLY, I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS METHOD. Next speediest in order are Deamon-Clean, Z-Best, Perfect, hot water and detergent, chemical dips, crock pot and antifreeze.
Many of the chemical types are NOT environmentally friendly and should be disposed properly. Some emit fumes and/or are quite odoriferous so care must be used as to where you use the materials.
My personal choice is the antifreeze and crock pot- -- mix half and half with water set temp on low to medium (140 to 160 degrees) I used Prestone all metal approved ethylene glycol. I did not try the new environmentally friendly kind. It does emit a slight odor so you should use it out side the house. I t did also leave a loose adhering brownish colored film on the bronze bushings that was easily removed with a paper towel wetted with fuel or alcohol.
Removal of the cleaners all is by either rinsing with water or by just wiping and evaporating.
There are many more cleaning materials out there such as paint strippers particle blasting etc but are not usually tried by many people. Some of the methods that I tried here and got less-than-desired results are found to work very satisfactorily for others, so do not take offense it I said that your favorite method was not as good as you thought it was. It is just that it didn’t work for me. If you have a method that works to your satisfaction, for goodness sake stick with it. If it ain’t broke, don’t try to fix it.
I have many pages of data on these test methods, so if you want more or have questions, post them on the board or E-Mail me and I will try to answer them.
Marvin denny aka Bigiron

I just want to reinforce a couple of your cautions and, like your recommendations, from experience. When spraying choke cleaner, you'll find that engine parts are designed to return the stream directly into one of your eyes. Does it hurt? It will drop you to the floor like a poached egg but, if you're very lucky and get it flushed out ASAP, you won't have much permanent corneal tissue damage...only a little. Should we be wearing eye protection ALL the time we're messing with models? Of course. Will we? Probably not, but try.

When cooking parts in an antifreeze mixture, try to keep the pot outside. If it's in your garage, keep the door(s) up. DO NOT use this method inside your home. Fumes come out of the pot, and you cannot prevent them. They can irritate membranes in your nose, throat, sinuses and lungs. The least you'll get out of it is a sore throat. The worst? You will no longer need to stop and smell the roses...you won't be able to smell anything.

One thing is bothering me though, when you take apart a ringed engine should or should you not remove the ring before cleaning, and if you do remove it, what kind of ring compressor do you use for reinstalling or changing?

Helo City Jim

Evil stuff are the chemicals used in cleaning the house, emissions from vaccuum cleaners and the like.

See Ya

You've identified one of the very worst, the radioactive emissions from vacuum cleaners. The buildup in my body tissues may be what caused me to post my earlier message. Sorry.

One cannot overemphasise the importance of being careful. Denny and ALL the others, while making jokes about the hazards, are also drawing our attention to things that can and DO happen. I for one appreciate their statements and barbs. IT's one of MURPHY'S LAWS is common. I once was gluing some parts together with CA glue. I accidentally got too much on the parts and just raised the parts up in front of my face and took a deep breath and BLEWWWW the excess off. Now I am safety contious, and had on my safety glasses. Nothing happened---- until I went to take my glasses off. They were WELL glued to my nose. **%@@#$%&??+!!and&*$%%. Try sometime to use acetone to get something unstuck that close to your nose with acetone.
I will put the results of the crock pot tests on here if you guys wish. The times, temps, and solutions.
Bigiron

LAST EDITED ON Jan-09-01 AT 05:39 PM (EST)

> I will put the results of the crock pot tests on here if you guys wish. The times, temps, and solutions.
> Bigiron

Big, I think you should put all the results you have on the board, and I'll describe my setup, as well. My crockpot is very small. It cost less than $15 new, and it has just one heat, low. If you were just dumping in parts, it would probably hold two engines. However, I made a basket from aluminum screen, with handles of copper wire. It helps to pull small parts out of hot antifreeze, but it limits the setup to just one engine. No problem, I'm not running an engine shop.

I've only used a glycol type antifreeze, but I may give the "environmentally friendly" type a try at some point. I leave parts in the solution anywhere from ten to fifteen hours, according to convenience. I have noticed no corrosion or discoloration of any parts, so I'm not worried about the immersion time. Some engines (really gummy) get two dunkings, one partially torn down, then one after a complete tear down. Use a fairly stiff toothbrush to finish it off.

The only down side...the fumes. Use a lid, but still be careful. I like this method for gunked up engines. It's not perfect, and it's reportedly not as good as ultrasound, but it's a lot cheaper. If you don't like it, use another method. Marvin has described quite a variety of them. Evidently they all work.

Peabody and I WERE kidding just a little. You've done some very impressive work on this, Marvin.