enya motors

I wrote to Jeff Green at Altech about the availability of Enya motors. Yes I know that some will say that they are too heavy etc for our purposes,however I like them and want to see them available and also some parts this is the response that i got concerning availability and support

Hi Dennis,

Yes we simplified the line in the states due to demand. We are adding some of the C/L engines, mainly 15, 25, 40 and 50 for right now. We are looking into the smaller engines but in the past I have been told they were more expensive than some other US available engines so Enya and MRC did not get into that market.

We do have venturis and NV assemblies for the C/L engines now including some of the older ones. Just let us know what you are looking for and if we do not have it, we can probably get it for you. If not we'll let you know. Our number is 732 225 6144.

Thanks Jeff

so if you want an alternative to the OS or need some parts for your older Enya give them a try. It seems that Jeff is really trying to do good things for the Enya line here in this country
incidentally the 50CX is a monster of a motor and what can I say the Enya line is certainly better made then current OS fare.
The last statement is my opinion only

I agree with Denlip. Enya makes some really fine engines that will, with minimum effort, do quite well in stunt planes. One complaint I've heard is that they require an unusually long break-in. True, but I've never had one wear out. The 5224 (.35) I bought in the mid 60's still runs like new. It lived in my green-box Nobler for many years before finding its way into many profile planes.
Also, don't underestimate the capability of the ENYA 4S line. I replaced an ST .60 with an ENYA .53 4S and it hauled a 77 ounce plane around quite well. Luciano Compostella, former European stunt champion from Monza, used the .53 with success.
Dan Banjock flew his Stiletto 660 with an ST .46 and then a Double Star .50. It now flies with an ENYA .46 4S and the performance is by far the best.
Bob

I didn't even know Enya still made two stroke C/L engines. Any pictures of them anywhere? Are they schnurle ported or loop ported?

My Enya 5224 .29 is indestructable.

Of course Enya still makes a full compliment of 2 stroke motors. All the way from .049 to .80. In Japan they also market many of their displacements as C/L motors.
I know that these boards have been filled with Enya threads so there is no need to go over their assets and faults they are pretty well known to anyone who has been in the hobby for a few, read that quite a few, years.
But since I believe in choice it really is gratifying that Altech is at least bringing in a few of the more modern offerings in the line. I'm going to see if I can get a 35X converted to a C/l motor. Just knowing that you might be able to get support parts mght be enough to get some of the older motors out of the closet and back on a plane.

I've looked at hundreds of swap Enyas, and have never encountered one that was worn out.

I'd rather fly than spend time at the break in bench, though. Yes, I am aware that Aldrich combined both.

I need a model to put a Sandcast Enya .63 in. Currell

Currell: I thought I was the only one with an ENYA .63. Have you ever run yours? According to the previous owner of mine, the word vibration takes on new meaning! What other odd ENYAS do you have?
Bob
ps - coming to the Musciano event?

>I wrote to Jeff Green at
>Altech about the availability of
>Enya motors. Yes I know
>that some will say that
>they are too heavy etc
>for our purposes,however I like
>them and want to see
>them available and also some
>parts this is the response
>that i got concerning availability
>and support
>
>Hi Dennis,
>
>Yes we simplified the line in
>the states due to demand.
>We are adding some of
>the C/L engines, mainly 15,
>25, 40 and 50 for
>right now. We are looking
>into the smaller engines but
>in the past I have
>been told they were more
>expensive than some other US
>available engines so Enya and
>MRC did not get into
>that market.
>
>We do have venturis and NV
>assemblies for the C/L engines
>now including some of the
>older ones. Just let us
>know what you are looking
>for and if we do
>not have it, we can
>probably get it for you.
>If not we'll let you
>know. Our number is 732
>225 6144.
>
>
>Thanks Jeff
>
>so if you want an alternative
>to the OS or need
>some parts for your older
>Enya give them a try.
>It seems that Jeff is
>really trying to do good
>things for the Enya line
>here in this country
>incidentally the 50CX is a monster
>of a motor and what
>can I say the Enya
>line is certainly better made
>then current OS fare.
>The last statement is my opinion
>only

Dennis, Is Altech an outlet for Enyas? Do they have a web site?

What is the propeller shaft thread on Enya .29 .35 ?

LAST EDITED ON Aug-07-02 AT 03:15 PM (CDT)

Ted, Altech is the name of the company that was once known as MRC in New Jersey.
They are the exclusive importer of Enya motors, have been for over 50 years.Yes,they have a web site, but I don't have it bookmarked.It does come up quickly on a search though.
Currell, It really is not a long protracted break in like the old 5224 and earlier series of motors They now brake in on average of 2-3 hrs and you can fly them in after a run or two to stabilize the fit. Just think of it as a Fox and you won't even mind . Perhaps they have that rod that your looking for. I'd give them a try and see.
Prop size for the older series of Enyas was 5mm for 09 6mm for 15/19 and 7 mm for the 29/35. You can buy these nuts at any true value or Lowes for about 50c each. They are aluminum though,not the old steel nuts but are perfectly adaquate for your needs Dennis

Site for Enya motors is:
http://www.modelrec.com/index.stm

BW:
I'm pretty sure it's 7mm dia x 1mm pitch
Bob

Bob on the Enya 63 typhoon i used mine in the late 60's. Airplane was an enlarged chief, it shook the plane apart in less then the season. Yes it vibrates big time. Dennis

I have an Enya .29 tha seems to run ok. I fitted it with a
muffler and have 3 heads and 3 square venturi inserts for it.

Are you interested in another one. I had it in a fancy pants and
it was far too nose heavy.

Rex

As an alternative to OS? Well that remains to be seen. Past Experience with Enya engines, put them into the "More trouble than they were worth catagory" in my mind. Back when fuel was $4.99 3 or 4 hour breakins were no big sweat. But now that would equate to almost 2 gallons of fuel $30 just to break in an Enya engine. I have two buddies that both have Enya 35 engines that are every bit as cantankerous as I remember them. When they run they run strong (not much of a 4-2-4 engine) But when the do not run well, you can sit and fiddle with the engine for an hour and still not get a reliable run.

I discovered OS engines that did not need to be fussed over and I never looked back. Upright, side ways, inverted, so far OS engines have been the most consistant running engines I've ever owned. OS 40LA included. My enya was the only engine I ever owned that would at times refuse to start even with an electric starter. Especially after getting hot.

Hello There

Enya engines are very good engines. Some models are heavy. I am using various models in RC aeroplanes and they are great. I am using an ENYA 50 RING and it very powerful. Pulls a 6.25LB model using a modified master airscrew 11 * 7. Fuel 4:1 Klotz no nitro. idel no probs.

AN Enya SS40 was a pain, keept locking up, the crown of the piston would grow with heat, machined a wisker of the diam and presto. I do not think it will ever wear out.

Piston seal is very important on the ABC 45CX. Engine wears and looses piston seal after about 10 imperial gallons of fuel.

The 50 ring is lighter than the 45cx. I do not use enya plugs in enya engines. Try K&B 1L if they are still available or RoSSI red ones. R5 i think.

Regards John QUigley

>Currell: I thought I was the
>only one with an ENYA
>.63. Have you ever run
>yours? According to the previous
>owner of mine, the word
>vibration takes on new meaning!
>What other odd ENYAS do
>you have?
>Bob
>ps - coming to the Musciano
>event?

Bob: Yes, I will be there.

Haven't run the .63 yet. I had a similar .60 in the late '50s, though. Loud.

Why did Enya make both a .60 and a .63. Something to do with straddling two displacement classes for competition purposes, like Fox for the .19 and .201??

Regarding break-in. We used to "hand lap" Fox pistons & cylinders using a compound called rotten stone. It produced a near perfect fit and the engine was ready to fly after 10 or 15 minutes on a test stand. Anybody ever try this with an Enya? If it works as well as on the Foxes, it would accellerate the break-in. I have a few new (old) Enyas that I would someday like to use. By the way, I tried this method on one Max-S .35 and it was the best running Max-S I ever flew. Comment?
Bob

It really is not
>a long protracted break in
>like the old 5224 and
>earlier series of motors They
>now brake in on average
>of 2-3 hrs and you
>can fly them in after
>a run or two to
>stabilize the fit.

I should live so long.

What were the old ones? 5 hours?

That's why I like these Scheurles with the tapered bore.

Speaking of boring...that's what breaking in engines is.

E xpect
N o performance in
Y our
A irplane

Sorry, couldn't resist. Most FORD's Ive owned didn't really need to be:

F ixed
O ften or
R epaired
D aily.

I did have a GTO that:

G ot
T owed
O ften

Al, my FIAT was never
Fix
It
Again
Tony

Z-man

>Regarding break-in. We used to "hand
>lap" Fox pistons & cylinders
>using a compound called rotten
>stone. It produced a near
>perfect fit and the engine
>was ready to fly after
>10 or 15 minutes on
>a test stand. Anybody ever
>try this with an Enya?
>If it works as well
>as on the Foxes, it
>would accellerate the break-in. I
>have a few new (old)
>Enyas that I would someday
>like to use. By the
>way, I tried this method
>on one Max-S .35 and
>it was the best running
>Max-S I ever flew. Comment?
>
>Bob

Hand lapping is an art that can also result in hand wearing them out. If you don't know what you are doing, I would recommend staying away from it. Even then, it probably allows you to run it sooner, but can also accelerate the wear out of th engine. I always figured that an engine that takes a long time to break in will also take a long time to wear out. There is nothing wrong with having to spend a little extra time on the bench for the desired result of a good running engine.

LAST EDITED ON Aug-08-02 AT 06:15 PM (CDT)

>E xpect
>N o performance in
>Y our
>A irplane
>
>Sorry, couldn't resist. Most FORD's Ive
>owned didn't really need to
>be:
>
>F ixed
>O ften or
>R epaired
>D aily.
>
>I did have a GTO that:
>
>
>G ot
>T owed
>O ften
>
>Al

Al regarding Fords

They were
F or
O ld
R etired
D rivers
and were usually
F ound
O n
R oad
D ead

My 1977 Fiat was 20x more reliable then any American car I've had before or since

All my Enya's will start in a few flips, I wonder what I'm doing wrong

Actually I see that someone else has started a thread on Enya venturis, After reading all the remarks here it seems that our friend has actually said what was wrong with most of the older Enyas. We usually threw the stock venturis away or when I was younger ran a restrictor in the venturi
Oh a note on break in on these motors . Heres a tale to make you cringe.
A friend and I when we were younger <11ish> each bought a new Enya 35, he being the impetious type promply put it on his plane and started to fly. Of course the motor would sieze and stop.He's wait till it cooled and fire it up again till the same thing happened. It of course went a little longer each time till it would sieze. Eventially it just kept running.
Point of story is My friend is no longer with us but his motor still endures in my collection. Yes it still runs. Used to laugh at him,he's say if you want them to be fast break them in fast. Those old Enyas were the only motors that I knew that could ever take such a beating.
Oh Currell on breaking in a new Enya you just fly the thing, What I ment is that it is considered broken in after 2 hours of running. You don't think that I have the time to sit and babysit a motor do you? I only run them till they hold a setting then it gets flown in. Long bench running is a thing of the past for me

I'm not giving up on the ones that I have.
(All three of them are sitting right in front of me)

I love them, I would never give them up for an OS LA. (Allready bought an OS LA)

I figure that there just getting to know me first before they start and run right. (thought about mixing a little extra fine diamond lapping compound with some fuel and eye dropper a drop in the intake while there running on the bench)

I'm sure it just takes about 5 gal. of fuel and alot of patience to break them in. (If I make one more trip to the field and don't get to fly, I'll kill them)

Did I mention that we have a 150 ton press where I work.

(smiles)

>...(thought about mixing a little
>extra fine diamond lapping compound
>with some fuel and eye dropper a
>drop in the intake while there
>running on the bench)

I hope you didn't get beyond just thinking about this. Duke Fox used to sell two "magic" white powders. One was a lapping compound that you would mix with oil and use to hand lap an engine (if you were daring.) The other was a much finer powder (Was it Lustrox?) that you would mix with oil and drop one drop in the intake while you were bench running an engine. This was supposed to be so fine it would merely polish the various parts during initial break in and do it all faster. But.

Duke warned, "Don't mix them up. If you put one drop of the lapping compound in the intake while the engine is running you will instantly ruin the engine. There are no short cuts to a good and proper break in. Remember, it takes about 2 hours of bench running for an engine like the PA stunts (made by Nelson) before they are ready for an airplane, and about 15 hours before they are fully broken in. This is the cost of preparing a good quality engine for flight.

>I'm sure it just takes about
>5 gal. of fuel and alot of
>patience to break them in.
>(If I make one more trip to
>the field and don't get to
>fly, I'll kill them)

Five gallons? One gallon will run it for three hours. Surely it won't take five gallons to get it ready for flight! (See note above.)

>Did I mention that we have
>a 150 ton press where I work?

You didn't previouly. Did I mention that we have a stapler and a hole punch where I work?

Broken wings wrote:

"Did I mention that we have a 150 ton press where I work."

I have one here, too. I put a guys favorite golf ball in it. He was not happy....

never thought of putting an engine in there......with my luck the press would break

No, I didn't use any lapping compound. (smiles) I remember the "Lustrox" material, I never used any of it though.

"Did I mention that we have a 150 ton press where I work."

Golly, I cant even bench 150lbs.
A

I've been running several Enya's lately and have had some success. My 45 year old Enya 29 Mk IIIB still runs OK but its not a stunt engine. Sometimes I run a 9-4 and let it wind up.
Then I have an Enya 35BB and it's actually worn out, but still a strong runner. I use a Tornado 10-4 3B @ 10500RPM and it really pulls.
But if you want to try a stunt run, try an Enya 45 with a 11-7 or an Enya 60 Mk II with a 13-8. Both these engines have very low exhaust timing, about 124 degrees. (The 29 and 35 don't). So the 45 and 60 will run strong down below 7000 rpm and sound great. The blowdown is high and a 2-4 break can tend to run away. I have reduced nitro from 10% to 5% because of this. Has anyone filed the intake ports to reduce the blowdown? I intend to try it, and hope it will tame the runaway.
Happy Landings,
John

John, how can I identify the intake port versus the exhaust port by looking at the sleeve alone. I noticed one port is
"higher" (closer to the cylinder head) than the other.

I mindlessly disassembled my 35IIIB during my youth and would like to correctly reassemble it back.

I've done this at times. The higher one is usually the exhaust port as you do not want exhaust gasses blowing back into the crankcase and for the exhaust to open first.

Also you will know it is right as it will be the only one that lines up exactly with the exhaust port on the case.

LAST EDITED ON Aug-09-02 AT 08:20 PM (CDT)

Thanks Peter, that's what I thought too. The part about matching the sleeve exhaust with the cylinder exhaust port doesn't work in this case b/c the cylinder exhaust port is very large and both slots will match it. In fact the lower port lined up exactly center. Hummm...

Does anyone have a conrod for an Enya .45?

This seems to be an ENYA-magnet thread, and I'd like to ask the interested and assembled multitude if anyone has a crankcase that could be spared, engine is 'ENYA 45 II model 6002', and it's had a chip taken out of the exhaust stack. I'd love to overhaul it and get it back into service. And I've been asking around for some while, and haven't lucked-out yet. Crankcase can be attached to a rusty/frozen/runout/incomplete engine, too, but the casting itself needs to be uncracked and unstripped.

Thanks, everybody.

Duke Fox used to sell
>two "magic" white powders.
>One was a lapping compound
>that you would mix with
>oil and use to hand
>lap an engine (if you
>were daring.) The other
>was a much finer powder
>(Was it Lustrox?) that you
>would mix with oil and
>drop one drop in the
>intake while you were bench
>running an engine. This
>was supposed to be so
>fine it would merely polish
>the various parts during initial
>break in
Leonard.....I thought Fox sold two different colored powders..
one I remember was the White "Lustrox"...this is for polishing
and is quite safe it is actually Tin Oxide available at any
Lapidary shop, and quite cheap also..the other powder I though
was red colored, and I thought it was jeweler's rouge...maybe..
..mayhaps not.....Tony

> Leonard.....I thought Fox sold two
>different colored powders..
>one I remember was the White
>"Lustrox"...this is for polishing
>and is quite safe it is
>actually Tin Oxide available at
>any
>Lapidary shop, and quite cheap also..the
>other powder I though
>was red colored, and I thought
>it was jeweler's rouge...maybe..
>..mayhaps not.....Tony

As I recall they were both the same color (white). I picked them up at the factory and that is why the warning was given. "Do not mix them up". The fine stuff I did try in a running engine. I don't know that it helped or hindered anything. My concern has always been that it might polish something I don't want polished. (there HAS to be some kind of accelerated wear here, and if it accelerates the part that is already a proper or even too loose of a fit, well, it will simply hasten the end.)

The lapping compound I used to hand lap the back plate to the case, and cylinder head to the sleeve. Not that it was really necessary, just one of those "feel good" things to do. I guess I don't need to feel that good any more, so don't do it.

Pnevai is right, the higher port is the exhaust port. The lower port is therefor the intake. I find my Enya 35 runs good with a 10-4 3B if you want to pull a stunt plane. Otherwise a 9-6 2B on a combat plane and let her rip.
John

I have several Enya .29's and .35's. All run very well
using 25% castor fuel but won't run a 4-2-4 run.
I recently contacted Lew Woolard and sent him two
Enya .35's.
He did some head work and modified the timing on both engines.
Both .35's run a great 4-2-4 now.

Peter,
Try contacting them for parts at 732-225-6144

>Broken wings wrote:
>
>"Did I mention that we have
>a 150 ton press where
>I work."
>
>I have one here, too.
>I put a guys favorite
>golf ball in it.
>He was not happy....
>
>never thought of putting an engine
>in there......with my luck the
>press would break

I wonder how it would work on a stapler and a hole punch. (smiles)

Hi Bob et al. Rotten Stone lives! Used to use this stuff in Combat engines when the best engine blew on Friday evening and the big meet was Sundy somewhere in New Jersey! Howewver in more recent times denture tooth paste NOT regular stuff, is my preferred lapping compound. Mix the slurry with Rislone or some other oil to lap the mating surfaces in your mill. I have used denture tooth paste to lap heads to sleeves, sleeves to block, back plates to block with excellent results. I just must mention that the 50th anniversary Fox .35 which I am running in my OTS plane is the veery best I have ever has in so fars a Foxes go. Did not need to lap this one in as to sleeve and piston, only all the other stuff to get a truly fine mate.

Seeing as I have an Enya .29 and and Enya .35 that George Aldrich was going to retime for me, I'd love to contact Mr. Woolard to inquire about his doing that. I'd be grateful for an e-mail or postal address.

Thanks very much.

Peter,
The email address for Lew Woolard is
[email protected]

Acording to my engine guru, Tom Hampshire (Hi, Tom!) the nice thing about rotten stone is that it continuously breaks itself down in abrasiveness as it is worked into the metals. It's effectiveness declines in a curve as you use it.(Continued fresh applications are necessary to maintain the "grind".) This makes it good for removing varnish from chromed engines as well as lapping iron pistons. I have lapped two NIB Foxes with great results and cleaned varnish from a few FP's and a ST .35 as well. It is very forgiving stuff in this way. I use WD40 for the vehicle/lubricant. One box should last you six lifetimes, so if you buy some share it with the troops!
Al

Just a note of interest for Enya enthusiasts, up at the Ted Goyet contest in Woodland Ca last weekend there were three enyas flying. The best was Pete Peterson's Enya 45 on a VUM. It pulled well and had a good 2-4 break with Tornado 10-6 3B. I ran my 60 on a Rabe/Williams derivative airplane with a 13-8 at 6500 rpm. It had a distinct 2-4 break but too much of an rpm change. It tended to run thru the manuvers and then settle down to a 4 cycle in level laps. I still intend to file the intake ports to reduce the blowndown. Anybody got any advice on how much???
Frank Martin and Al Shorey were fooling around with a 29 Mk IV but it was too new to hold a needle in the 100 deg heat.
By the way, the ringed Enyas don't take long to break in, so don't shy away from the 45's & 60's because of break in.
Happy Landings,
John