Does anyone have a solution for reinforcing the motor mount area under the engine lugs so the engine doesn't sink in without changing the thrustline and appearance too much? I'm referring to designs like the Nobler where 1/8" aluminum pads would not be suitable without raising the bearers accordingly which would be very difficult to do.
Motor Mount Pads
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 4 of 4 known posts recovered
>Does anyone have a solution for
>reinforcing the motor mount area
>under the engine lugs so
>the engine doesn't sink in
>without changing the thrustline and
>appearance too much? I'm referring
>to designs like the Nobler
>where 1/8" aluminum pads would
>not be suitable without raising
>the bearers accordingly which would
>be very difficult to do.
>
>reinforcing the motor mount area
>under the engine lugs so
>the engine doesn't sink in
>without changing the thrustline and
>appearance too much? I'm referring
>to designs like the Nobler
>where 1/8" aluminum pads would
>not be suitable without raising
>the bearers accordingly which would
>be very difficult to do.
>
I like the idea of raising the engine a bit off the engine bearers a bit with removable pads. This, then, gives a bit of "wiggle room" for tank adjustment with a removeable tank. Otherwise, where do you go with the tank if you have to move it up just "slightly"? But, yes, you do have to then raise the bearers a bit to keep the thrustline the same.
However, since you asked, you can get phenolic circuit board material that is 1/16 inch thick at Radio Shack and elsewhere. We normally put two together for 1/8 inch pads, but 1/16 is fine if you don't want to move the bearers much. Now, can you move the bearers that 1/16 inch in the building process? If they stick up a little and you mold the top block, it will give it something to grip to and strengthen the joint.
Make the phenolic bearers longer front to back. The whole idea of bearers such as this is to spread out the load of the bolted on engine. And if you make them removeable, you don't need to paint them. Just drill them and insert them under the engine when bolting it down.
Leonard Neumann
LAST EDITED ON Aug-17-02 AT 09:55 AM (CDT)
Len,
Great suggestion! This is particularly useful in existing Classic designs. A 1/16" variation in the thrust line really won't make any difference.
Tom N.