The Streak got a weight box and a leadout slider. This was my first time at using either, and I'm sold on both. The plane's first flight was on a gusty day, and I was a little nervous about it. Adding an extra 1/4 oz. and moving the leadouts as far back as possible, I had all the pull I wanted and the wind was no problem.
In building the kit, I made some notes for myself. I'll use them on the next one, so I numbered them to be inserted within the Brodak instructions. The part about the leading and trailing edges I wrote after the fact, but I won't skip it the next time around. If it is not done carefully, the result is gaps between the ribs and the leading and trailing edges. Structurally, there may not be a problem, but it doesn't look very good left that way and filling the gaps with little pieces of balsa is a pain.
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Step 0 - Do Step 8 first, assembly of the leading edge(s). These can be curing while the web spar is also curing (Step 1) and the ribs are punched, clamped and sanded (Step 2).
Step 2.1 - Remove the finished leading edge from the board, and fit it to the nose of the rib stack. Sand-trim the nose of the rib stack until it fits nicely within the leading edge.
Step 2.2 - Check for flush fit of the trailing edges into the notches in the ribs. Sand-trim the rib stack as needed, until there is a flush fit. Try not to shorten the ribs.
Tip Weight:
Initial Weight: I used 1/2 oz., glued to the back side of the rib web, against the last rib. I probably should have fastened it to the outside rib, except that I wanted the weight as far forward as possible, and the weight box was going on the front side of the web.
Weight Box (1/4 oz. size): Either Brodak's weight boxes are too small, or the 1/4 oz. weights too big. The ply top and bottom are OK, but the sides do not assemble to fit to the edges of the top and bottom. I made new 1/16 balsa sides: (2 each) 1" and 7/8", all four 1-1/8 long. I glued it to the front of the rib web, opening down, centered between the last two ribs. I planned to sheet that bay, from the LE to spar, cutting an opening the size of the box. Then make a balsa cap for the box lid, to be sanded to the shape of the sheeting. Cool, huh?
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Controls: (Assuming you're not building in an adjustable link of some sort)
Another thing I did on this kit, and for the first time. I've read where controls should be assembled so that everything is squared up, bellcrank, control horn, etc. Supposedly this gives you equal up/down throw...bull. Every plane I've ever built had more throw one way than the other. Where does it say all the internal control parts need to be squared up, relative to each other? Here's how I did my controls, and it resulted in up and down elevator throws that measure the same, to within 1/2 degree or less.
I installed the bellcrank, pushrod and leadouts, with the leadouts attached to the crank but the outside ends unfinished. The horn was fastened to the elevator and all the tail surfaces attached, without regard to control centering or throws. Don't attach the rear of the pushrod to the control horn; we'll do that later. Once the plane is finished and painted, the last thing to do is finish the controls. Now comes the trick. Maybe 99% of you have always done the following. I don't know, but it is contrary to any instructions I've ever read, and it works like a charm.
Cut the pushrod where the split coupling won't interfere with a rod support, if you're using one. Hold the front of the rod pointed roughly at the control horn, and put a 3 or 4 inch strip of tape on the fuselage under the rod. Again, holding the rod pointing at the horn, pull one of the leadouts till it stops. Put a mark on the tape, where the cut end of the rod stops. Pull the other leadout and mark where the rod stops. When the cut end of the pushrod is exactly midway between the marks on the tape, the "front half" of your controls is at neutral. Measure, find that point and place a mark there.
Hook the other end of the pushrod into the horn. Clamp the stabilizer and elevator, so the elevator is in its neutral position. I use a C-clamp with two pieces of scrap 1/8" balsa to protect the finish. Bring the two parts of the pushrod together. If you have a little gap, great. That's what you want. If there's no gap, or they are too long, re-cut the front end of the rear part of the rod. You can cut the front part of the rod, but you'll have to re-do the marks on the tape, so cut the rear part.
Leaving the elevator clamped, slide the support and the split coupling onto the pushrod. Turn the coupling so that you can see into the split. Place the rear end of the front part of the rod directly over the neutral mark on the tape, and apply whatever cement you use for the coupling. Make sure nothing has moved, and let it all sit until your cement has cured. Again leaving the elevator clamped, finish the ends of the leadouts. Hey, hey! You'll have a neutral elevator with neutral at the leadouts AND equal elevator throws, up and down. Pull off the tape. Life is sweet.
I'm fairly certain there will disagreement with some or all of this. Save it! These are just things that work for me. If they help someone else, then the objective of a BBS is once again realized.
"Doesn't play well with others"
Denny Malott