Cleaning Engines (Crock Pot method)

Some one in the previous thread of Cleaning Engines subject suggested that I put the details of the Crock Pot method out. HERE IT IS!!!
The crockpot I used was a Wal-Mart one gallon pot, sells for $9.95, and has three switch positions. Off, Low, and High. I made a small basket to hold the parts in out of a one pound coffee can with a bunch of holes punched in the bottom of it and around the sides. I made a bail out of soft wire to lift it out with.
The anti freeze I used was Prestone all metal compatable. I presume ANY ethylene glycol that is approved for use in aluminum radiators and aluminum engine blocks will work equally well. A caution here. ETHYLENE GLYCOL IS TOXIC TO PETS, ANIMALS, AND HUMANS!!! DO NOT JUST POUR IT OUT WHERE ANIMALS (PETS AS WELL AS WILD LIFE) CAN GET INTO IT. ALSO, DO NOT TRY TO USE THE CROCK POT FOR PREPARING FOOD AFTER USING IT FOR HEATING ETHYLENE GLYCOL.
Now, The different mixtures I used were Straight anti-freeze right out of the jug, 50% water and 50%anti-freeze and 25% anti-freeze and 75% water. I tried all three mixes at the following temperatures. Room Temperature (65 to 75 degrees), low setting (140 to 150 degrees) and high setting (180 to 200 degrees) The best cleaning action was the 50-50 mix at the low setting. The engines that I cleaned were VERY badly caked with heavy deposits of burned on castor oil that had been left on the engines for years. (The worst case one should ever encounter.) The engines were checked from time to time and it was found that over night or 10 to 12 hours were required to remove most of the deposits of crud. Some took close to 24 hours. The benefit of this method is that you can leave the parts in the solution at temperature for over a week and not do any damage.
Upon removing the parts from the crock pot, drain/shake as much off as you can, and rinse them in warm water or water from the garden hose, and shake as much of the water off as you can (blowing it off with compressed air is best.)You may during the rinsing operation have to use a toothbrush to remove any stubborn stains. Dry the engine in an oven at lower temp (190 or so) or wash it off in methanol or acetone. To absorb any water remaining then IMMEDIATELY oil the engine parts so they won't rust.
You can clean the engine assembled with just the back plate and plug removed, but It makes getting ALL the ethylene glycol out fron between the cylinder and case and from between the shaft and crankcase very difficult. I recommend complete disassembly of the engine if it is this dirty.
The only draw backs to this method that I found were that it is slow and that it left a brownish film on the bronze bushings; however, that was easily removed by wiping with a paper towel dampened with acetone or alcohol, (or fuel).
Again I reiterate, ETHYLENE GLYCOL is DEADLY to pets and animals and toxic to humans. You cannot use the crockpot for food preparation after using it for this cleaning method.
I have heard some others say that they have found the environmentally friendly anti-freeze does just as good (Propylene glycol). This raises a possible question, Could it be either the additives in the anti-freeze to keep the radiators clean and free of corrision or perhaps the lubricant that is added to keep the water pumps lubed that is the cleaning agent??
If you have an engine that is not as badly crudded up as these, and you want to just clean the outside, one of the designated model engine cleaners would be better, and if you are in a hurry but the engine is as bad as the ones mentioned here, some of the carbureator parts cleaners (chemical dips) are as good as this, and are much faster but have other draw backs.
This method was the most thorough cleaning method with the least dangers to people or material.
Bigiron