Putting Money In a Slot Machine

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 13 of 13 known posts recovered

Larry F · Jan 27, 2001 09:59 AM

Gang --

Most of you have Slot Machines or some digger equivalent. On a Flite Streak with 1/8 balsa stab would you use it? Or would you swap out the stab and elevator for thicker balsa? Or resort to linen? Do you use a jig with your Slot Machine, or rely on skill? How many hinges per foot would you use? What size Dubro hinges would you use with 1/8" balsa?

Larry F

Jim T. · Jan 27, 2001 11:16 AM

#1 source

Larry, I've been doing figure-8 hinges with dental floss. On a Flitestreak tail, I'd put four on either side. Drill 1/16 holes 1/4 - 3/8 back from the edges, and make a notch in the elevator so it will fit up close to the stab. Use a needle to thread the dental floss through. Clamp the stab and elevator flat so you don't pull them out of line when pulling the hinges tight. With practice you can make them look pretty neat. Soak them good with thin dope and plug the holes to cut down on oil seepage. Any kind of floss will work, plain or waxed, flat or round. I used green mint-flavored floss once. It looked interesting.

When I get a hingline stuck with dope, I floss it rather than cutting or breaking apart.

1/8 sheet seems OK for the Flitestreak, but for bigger stabs, put a piece of 1/32 on your building board. Lay down the outline and center out of 1/8 sheet and put in 1/16 x 1/8 warren truss ribs. Put the top 1/32 sheet on with titebond and weight it down flat to dry. Now compare it with a similar size 3/16 sheet for weight and rigidity. You will be impressed.

Jim

Bob Reeves · Jan 27, 2001 04:33 PM

#2 source

I have the Slot Machine and just happen to have built a Flight Streak. I used the small Dubro pined hinges and cut the slots with the Slot Machine. It wasn't easy but if you are careful it can be done. I will admit I did go through the outside in two places.. one on the stab and one on the elevator but a little balsa filler fixed it right up.

I used 5 hinges one dead center, two fairly close to the tips and the other 2 evenly spaced between the other two. Inset the hinge into the movable surface by the distance of the barrel. Just cut a slot the width of the hinge and deep enough for the barrel. This keeps everything lined up and makes the gap almost non existent.

One trick I have sense learned it to make your center marks pretty deep so the Slot Machine blade is held in place when you start it. And do the slotting before you do any rounding or shaping of the edges..

Dental Floss might be OK for a combat ship but if you want it to look half way presentable use the pined hinges..

Bob

Scott Riese · Jan 27, 2001 06:36 PM

#3 source

Larry.....Lets take a stunter about the size of the Twister. Four hinges per flap and two per elevator.A full sized 60 ship , at least six per wing, four per elevator. I ues a #11 blade to make my slots and ALWAYS pre fit them before you glue them in. It's not rocket science but it can BE. Scott PS I ues DU-Bro Meds on both flaps and elevators. 1/2a I use CA hindges cut into 1/4" strips.

Kiiski · Jan 28, 2001 12:51 AM

#6 source

1/8 sheet seems OK for the Flitestreak, but for bigger stabs,
put a piece of 1/32 on your building board. Lay down the outline and center out of 1/8 sheet and put in 1/16 x 1/8 warren truss ribs. Put the top 1/32 sheet on with titebond and weight it down flat to dry. Now compare it with a similar size 3/16 sheet for weight and rigidity. You will be impressed.

Jim

A quick question, Is this legal on a classic stunter?

Kiiski

Jim T. · Jan 28, 2001 11:23 AM

#7 source

I'm looking at the PAMPA rules for Classic. We are discussing fidelity. I've never seen Classic airplanes judged for fidelity, just for appearance points, but I'm sure it is done at some contests. To paraphrase the rules statements: The model is suppposed to reflect the aerodynamic layout and appearance of the original. An I-beamer replicated with a sheeted foam wing should loose points, for example. I have, by the by, replaced a 3/16 sheet stab and elevator on a classic airplane as described. You can't tell it is not solid sheet.

PAMPA Old Tim Stunt rules list allowable modifications. These include structural changes to strengthen the aircraft. Modifications other than those listed are not permitted. Can't change aifoils, for example. I would take that to mean you couldn't change a 1/8 thick tail to 3/16 thick, but you can cover it with carbon veil.

Jim

Jim T. · Jan 27, 2001 11:20 PM

#4 source

LAST EDITED ON Jan-27-01 AT 11:21 PM (EST)

Couple of comments on the figure-8 hinges. They don't work well on thick surfaces, they tend to work loose. With a little effort they can be made to look like they are supposed to be there. I have had some of the commercial hinges fail but never a figure-8 hinge. I have cut slot hinges out of the plastic that holds a 6-pack together. They lasted two flights. No need to repeat the experiment.

Has anyone used the Formost gapless hinges?

Jim

John · Jan 28, 2001 12:03 AM

#5 source

I have used the Granite State (?) iron on hinges for tails of this size with good success. They do get stiff with paint, but loosen up with only a little work. By the end of the first flight, no resistance at all. An added benefit is that the hingeline is sealed and you get the best efficiency out of your tail. Good Luck.

Nils · Jan 29, 2001 01:18 AM

#8 source

I use a buddies Slot Machine to cut slots for RC airplane hinges. The machine is good, but it can be made better very easily. I don't know WHY they don't come with this modification. What we did was tape a piece of balsa block on the side of the thing so that when laid on it's side it lays flat with the blade parallel to the bench top. Then we use balsa sheet (or whatever works) stacked up to space the control surface so it's centerd at the height of the cutting blade. Then all you have to do is hold the stab, (elevator, whatever) on top the spacer pile & slide the blade straight into the wood. This way it won't come out the top or bottom of the sheet & the slot is always parallel to the surface & not cocked at an angle. All they'd have to do is mold a little bump on the side of that machine & it would be a MUCH better tool out of the box. The way they show to use the thing is rediculous. Btw, I prefer cloth hinges on my stunters.
Nils

Larry F · Jan 29, 2001 07:32 AM

#9 source

Nils --

Thanks! That is precisely what I wanted to do, and was looking for some confirmation.

Now tell me why you prefer cloth hinges on your stunters.

Larry F

Nils · Feb 04, 2001 11:59 AM

#10 source

I iron the hinges on over Balsarite, then brush two coats of thinned Basarite over 'em. They stay stuck, they're self centering (even I can't screw 'em up), they last forever, they're extremely free moving & if you run them full length of the surface they're self sealing. I bought a yard of unbleached muslin for something like a buck nineteen & found an old pair of pinking shears to cut my own hinges. I have enough to last for the rest of my life. I have cloth hinges on my profile Oriental & it has nearly 800 flights on it, they're still good as new. One other thing, Bob Hunt told me Bill Werwage uses 'em, that's good enough for me!!
Nils

Larry F · Feb 04, 2001 05:09 PM

#11 source

Nils --

Well, now, you have caused a bit of a family squabble. My wife wants me to go with cloth hinges. I used your tip and have tape all over my slot machine, and am slicing up balsa like a wild man.

Here we go, but my way. I paid good money for the machine, and I am darned well going to use it!

Larry F

LNeumann · Feb 04, 2001 05:18 PM

#12 source

Larry, I personally don't like cloth hinges, and Matt got a slot machine, so, I am with you.

Leonard Neumann