Is Your Landing Gear Straight?

Gang --

When you mount the gear, how do you know if the wheels will roll in a straight line? Eyeball, or does someone have a cute measurement idea that sets the gear on the mark?

I am assuming a straight line take-off and landing roll is the goal. If you think that is not true, please reply.

I go out to the driveway and roll the plane forward. Make sure that it goes straight!!!! Scott

On CL, eyeballing the gear and test rolling it as Scott suggests works fine. However, there is a ROT. On conventional gear (taildragger) planes, the mains should be toed in just a tiny bit, so that any deviation from straight will be self-correcting. Toe-out will give you grey hair fast.

KD --

Toe-in? I think I knew that in a previous life! That is the big "Kaboom" I was looking for.

Thanks a bunch. I drew a simple "T" on a big sheet of plain white paper, built a couple of 6" brass tubing extensions that slip over the gear, and eyeballed the toe-in and total alignment.

The simplest solutions are often the best. Scott's driveway test will confirm we got it right.

Wide wheels roll straighter than narrow wheels, also change them often!

Thanks to All --

Scott, the bird passes your driveway test, but I did it in the family room. Using the brass tubing extensions as measurement aids and setting the toe-in in advance made the setup bullet proof.

Is this whole process something everybody else just "knows" and I am the only one who is ignorant? Seems like it is a minor trimming point, but worthy of note.

Oh yeah, the matchbook cover trick to solder the wheel washers on worked very, very well. I can't remember who wrote that, but it worked like a charm!

We always use a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper behind the washer when soldering on wheels or control horns. Leave the grit facing the washer. Then spin the sandpaper before ripping it off and it will clean the back side that is, otherwise, inaccessibile

Your method is superior, but I was scared to death because I had press fit 5/32 brass tubing into the wheels to be soldered onto an 1/8" gear. I was afraid the solder would sweat into the tubing, locking the wheels.

The matchbook cover with a drilled 1/8" hole worked more as a sweat barrier than a washer cleaner. The wheels rolled easily after soldering, but the back sides of my washers are probably not as pretty as yours.

Larry,
I really like the tubing and paper trick. For years (decades?) I've just eyeballed it and gotten away with it. But you've given me a new tool in the tool box. Thanks!
Kelvin

Kelvin --

Well, thanks! Actually, I threw the plain paper away and just sat the plane down on the plans. That is easier, simpler, and more accurate in my opinion. I was right proud of the brass tubing extensions, and I think I will always use them until Leonard comes up with a better way. Which he will.

I note that the outside gear takes more of a beating in landing than the inside gear and occasionally needs straightening.