Stuka Stunt Control Line Forum
Archive, 2000–2021 · recovered from the Internet Archive
Forums › Stuka Stunt Main Forum

ink lines

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 14 of 14 known posts recovered

stephen hollier · Dec 10, 2002 04:22 PM

#0 source
I am going to try to do some ink lines on my new Vector what type of pen should I buy? And who carries them? After I put the lines down do I put 50/50 dope down right on top of that are do you guys know of any tricks of the trade?

Thanks Stephen

John Kelinske · Dec 10, 2002 04:54 PM

#1 source
>I am going to try to
>do some ink lines on
>my new Vector what type
>of pen should I buy?
>And who carries them? After
>I put the lines down
>do I put 50/50 dope
>down right on top of
>that are do you guys
>know of any tricks of
>the trade?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks Stephen

I think Windy has a very good video on doing this; well worth the $s.

JAK

JAK · Dec 10, 2002 05:02 PM

#2 source
>I am going to try to
>do some ink lines on
>my new Vector what type
>of pen should I buy?
>And who carries them? After
>I put the lines down
>do I put 50/50 dope
>down right on top of
>that are do you guys
>know of any tricks of
>the trade?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks Stephen

Most any properly stocked art supply store or drafting supply will have what you need. Rapidograph is one brand of pen(s). The old standard was to use India ink, there may be better modern alternatives now, ask Windy or the other rocket dudes. If you are using a dope finish, yes the lines will need to be sealed with several light mist coats of clear sprayed on after they and any decals are down.

John

Bill Calkins · Dec 10, 2002 05:40 PM

#3 source
One nice thing about India Ink is that you can erase mistakes with alcohol and try again.
Bill

LNeumann · Dec 10, 2002 06:58 PM

#4 source
Rapidograph pen. You can get a set if you are serious, otherwise get a medium tip pen to start with. Use waterproof India ink. You can "erase" it with alcohol right away if (when) you goof. Make sure everything is absolutely clean and grease free. Put on old clothes. Don't do it over the living room carpet or on the dinging room table. keep dogs and cats away. And when you are satisfied with an area, give it a light mist coat of clear dope. Eventually you will seal it with dope and that will keep the fuel from smearing it. Watch yourself when you sand the final clear coats that you don't go down so far as to uncover any of the ink areas or once again they will be vulnerable to your fuel residues.

Leonard Neumann

Iskandar Taib · Dec 11, 2002 02:46 AM

#6 source
So them neat Pilot rollerball pens won't work? Goldurn.. ^_-

(I was actually going to try inking with a Sharpie, at some point. Nothing more serious than a Dick Sarpolus type profile, though..)

Ty M> · Dec 11, 2002 01:02 AM

#5 source
What they all said. In addition, get some plastic guides with circles, squares, etc and put a line of masking tape under a very flexible plastic straight edge/ruler. Do a line (that sounds strange in this day and age:-) ) or circle and let it set for a few seconds. Do another on the other side or wing. Then walk away. I am just learning to do this and it can get tedious at first. TAKE your time. Caps for emphasis. Be sure the work area is clear, because you will be turning that plane over and setting it down a lot. One suggestion, try to make the lines and squares, etc look like they belong there or similar to a real plane. I have seen planes with lines all over them that made no sense at all. Looked good, but silly. Don't make them too wide, they are supposed to be the tight joints of panels, not gaps. Have fun.

LNeumann · Dec 11, 2002 08:11 AM

#7 source
>What they all said. In
>addition, get some plastic guides
>with circles, squares, etc and
>put a line of masking
>tape under a very flexible
>plastic straight edge/ruler. Do
>a line (that sounds strange
>in this day and age:-)
>) or circle and let
>it set for a few
>seconds. Do another on
>the other side or wing.
> Then walk away.
>I am just learning to
>do this and it can
>get tedious at first.
>TAKE your time. Caps for
>emphasis. Be sure the work
>area is clear, because you
>will be turning that plane
>over and setting it down
>a lot. One suggestion, try
>to make the lines and
>squares, etc look like they
>belong there or similar to
>a real plane. I
>have seen planes with lines
>all over them that made
>no sense at all.
>Looked good, but silly. Don't
>make them too wide, they
>are supposed to be the
>tight joints of panels, not
>gaps. Have fun.

Matt has a couple of cork backed rulers made especially for the purpose you describe above. (The backing does not go all the way to the edge). And, yes on the rest.

Since Matt does Stukas, he took a plastic model to copy the inkline location. Whereas Brad spent 5 hours on his entire paint job of this year's Nat's plane, Matt spent a week doing the ink lines. The previous (white) one took two weeks to do the ink lines. The second one went faster simply because he used the first one as a pattern and knew where to put them. And I guess you also get faster the more you do. But, expect to take a little time in doing this. I guess it is worth it for the satisfaction you get when people eye-ball the plane and make their comments. Matt also has three (real) prop blade trophies gracing his end tables that he won in concourse judging. That helps, too.


Leonard Neumann

Currell · Dec 11, 2002 08:57 AM

Striping tape, too?#8 source
Does anyone just use striping tape? Is 1/16" too thick for a typical .40/.60-sized stunter. Is 1/32" available.

I do, occasionally. I don't know if the 1/32" is available, though. And clear dope on top when done.

Currell

TigreST · Dec 11, 2002 10:15 AM

RE: ink lines pic's#9 source
Stephen,

I tried panel lines for the first time this year, but did not use the Rapidograph pens as noted above. First time out I used the Top Flight Panel Line Pen as shown in picture #1. These were purchased about 4 years ago for $4.99 usd each. The results are acceptable I think. Knowing that most companies do not do their own one-off production runs on such items, I tasked myself with find out who made the pen for T.F.

[photo not recovered: 3df7613b0234d0a5.jpg]


It appears that Staedtler make a package the pens for Top Flight. At my local Staples outlet I found more pens of the same style and design, and in colors also. See picture #2. There is a Fine, and Medium tip pen, (see cap end F, and M) . These are water proof ink and read very much like the T.F. pen "users" info. Write on metal, plastic, wood, etc. etc.
[photo not recovered: 3df761e3031e2e9d.jpg]

Part of the available line of Staedtler pens are pictured in pic#3. Local drafting supply outlets would have more I'd venture to guess.
[photo not recovered: 3df7625c03b6c60b.jpg]

Some of these are from there Lumocolor line. When used the effect is of a semi-metallic colored line that flip-flops from the base red (for instance) to a gold color. My Tucano was done with the T.F. panel line pens for the black lines,..and a few lines done in the Staedtler packaged Lumocolor red. I did note a color wash out of sorts on the red Lumocolor ink after the clear coats were going on. The rest of the Lumocolor line has not been tried in our intended use as yet,...but these pens and inks may be a alternative to the Rapidograph pens as mentioned above, and at a much reduced cost then T.F. packaging of same. I paid, approx 2.95 for a pair of the Fine black pens,..and that's Canadian dollars btw. Last shot is ink work in progress on the "T". Technique is required so as not to have ink bleed under your straight edge, or templates. For what it's worth.

Your mileage may vary.


Tony

c.maikis · Dec 11, 2002 01:19 PM

RE: ink lines pic's#10 source
very interesting topic for me. I've always considered making those inklines with some kind of pen. HOWEVER - are they really light resistant ( light proof? sorry for the bad English )? Are the lines black even after 3 years exposure to the sun? Any experience? thanks for your advice. claus

John Kelinske · Dec 11, 2002 02:01 PM

RE: ink lines pic's#11 source
>very interesting topic for me. I've
>always considered making those inklines
>with some kind of pen.
>HOWEVER - are
>they really light resistant (
>light proof? sorry for the
>bad English )? Are the
>lines black even after 3
>years exposure to the sun?
>Any experience? thanks for your
>advice. claus

I have used "Sharpie" pens for lines, the only drawback is that it's sometimes hard to get the ink off without damaging the finish if one goofs.
If you are THE Claus Maikis of Germany as I suspect, I LOVE all your designs especially the biplanes and the M-35!


John Kelinske
Houston, Texas

stephen hollier · Dec 16, 2002 09:13 AM

RE: ink lines pic's#13 source
>Stephen,
>
>I tried panel lines for the
>first time this year, but
>did not use the Rapidograph
>pens as noted above.
>First time out I used
>the Top Flight Panel Line
>Pen as shown in
>picture #1. These were
>purchased about 4 years ago
>for $4.99 usd each.
>The results are acceptable I
>think. Knowing that most
>companies do not do their
>own one-off production runs on
>such items, I tasked myself
>with find out who made
>the pen for T.F.
>
>[photo not recovered: 3df7613b0234d0a5.jpg]
>
>
>It appears that Staedtler make a
>package the pens for Top
>Flight. At my local
>Staples outlet I found more
>pens of the same style
>and design, and in colors
>also. See picture #2.
>There is a Fine, and
>Medium tip pen, (see cap
>end F, and M) .
> These are water proof
>ink and read very much
>like the T.F. pen "users"
>info. Write on metal,
>plastic, wood, etc. etc.
>[photo not recovered: 3df761e3031e2e9d.jpg]
>
>Part of the available line of
>Staedtler pens are pictured in
>pic#3. Local drafting supply outlets
>would have more I'd venture
>to guess.
>[photo not recovered: 3df7625c03b6c60b.jpg]
>
>Some of these are from there
>Lumocolor line. When used
>the effect is of a
>semi-metallic colored line that flip-flops
>from the base red (for
>instance) to a gold color.
> My Tucano was done
>with the T.F. panel line
>pens for the black lines,..and
>a few lines done in
>the Staedtler packaged Lumocolor red.
> I did note a
>color wash out of sorts
>on the red Lumocolor ink
>after the clear coats were
>going on. The rest
>of the Lumocolor line has
>not been tried in our
>intended use as yet,...but these
>pens and inks may be
>a alternative to the Rapidograph
>pens as mentioned above, and
>at a much reduced cost
>then T.F. packaging of same.
> I paid, approx 2.95
>for a pair of the
>Fine black pens,..and that's Canadian
>dollars btw. Last
>shot is ink work in
>progress on the "T".
> Technique is required so
>as not to have ink
>bleed under your straight edge,
>or templates. For what it's
>worth.
>
>
>
>Your mileage may vary.
>
>
>Tony


Tony , thanks for advice I bought a pen from Hoddy Loddy it was a Faber- Castell artist pen with indian ink the plane looks great .... Thanks Again for the help...

Gary Widmer · Dec 11, 2002 02:04 PM

#12 source
Curt Contrata's "CL Aerobatics" column in the December 2002 (?) MA described his inking techniques. Lots of good information.