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Carbon Veil

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groundcrew · Feb 27, 2001 02:00 PM

#0 source
Hey goys,

I've heard a lot about carbon veil as a finish substrate for models, but I haven't seen it in use or talked to anyone who has actually used it. Is carbon veil the same as carbon mat I see advertised? If not, where do I find it? What is best to apply it with, epoxy, finishing resin? I assume it is primarily to add stiffness/rigidity to the structure without adding substantial weight.

Any guidance you can give me will be appreciated.

Don

LNeumann · Feb 27, 2001 05:27 PM

#1 source
Basically it is a .2 ounce random fiber material. You can buy it at several places such as Aerospace Composite Products http://www.acp-composites.com/

Just dope it on like you would silkspan. Then you can either use a talc or similar filler on it like you would if you had used silkspan or you can sand it and let the carbon fiber mat become the filler. You will need to recover when you do this, however, and it takes quite a bit of the carbon mat (more expense).

The carbon mat will add a little stiffness, but you can use it only over solid wood. You will still have to use silkspan over the open bays.

Leonard Neumann

Brett Buck · Feb 27, 2001 06:20 PM

#2 source
>Basically it is a .2 ounce
>random fiber material. You
>can buy it at several
>places such as Aerospace Composite
>Products http://www.acp-composites.com/

The material you want is "soft" matt from ACP. "Hard" matt will not work very well at all, and result in many pinholes.


Brett

LNeumann · Feb 27, 2001 06:53 PM

#3 source
Dumb question, Brett, because I don't remember, but, as I recall, it was Ted who noticed the difference and got them to stock the soft stuff. But then he discovered that there was something that the harder stuff worked better for, also. I can't remember what it's better use was, however. So, Brett, Ted, help me out. They stock both kinds now because there is a "best" use for both.

Leonard Neumann

kdheath · Feb 27, 2001 11:29 PM

#4 source
I have some and will be trying it soon for the first time. Ted Fancher has some good tips for applying it. Dope the wood, then apply the CF with thinner and finess it around the corners with the palm of your hand or slit it as needed. The matte is random fibers in a binder that is soluble in thinner. Sand with 320 between coats of dope. It will get harder and harder. I saw the suggestion somewhere to iron it before applying it to break the binder down a little and get it to go around corners better. Dunno how hard it will be to cover the black color with paint. Will need primer, I imagine.

Nils · Feb 28, 2001 12:14 AM

#5 source
I used the .2 oz on my profile Cardinal. I ironed it on over two coats of thinned Balsarite & put two more coats over the top. I finished it with water base PPG primer & Rustoleum over the sanded Balsarite. 261 flights so far & it's holding up well. It did develope one hairline crack in the fuse right at the front of the stab. I put a tiny bit of "skinny glue" in it & it stopped.
In contrast, my profile Oriental without the CF has cracks all over the fuse & tail, mostly between the trailing edge of the wing & the front of the stab. It has around 750 flights on it, but it started cracking after 50 or so. I just kept gluin' 'em. Still flys well but it's getting kinda ugh. I'll reinforce that spot a little on my Shark 45.
While I'm on the CF subject, I have a question. I ordered some CF from Aerospace Products 4 or 5 months ago. When I ordered it I specificly asked for ".2 ounce soft CF". The nice lady told me that was the only kind they carried now. But, it turned out to be .5 ounce rather than the .2 ounce I asked for. I've had it for months & just noticed it was the heavier material a short time ago. I'm ready to start covering most of the Shark 45 parts (all but the fuse). Will the .5 ounce stuff work, or should I call them back & re-order? (I'm not sure if I still have the receipt or not :/ ) She said they only carried one kind now, I wonder if the .2 ounce is no longer available? Anyone know?
Nils

LNeumann · Feb 28, 2001 08:35 AM

#6 source
As far as I know, the .2 ounce stuff is still available. The heavier stuff is just, well, heavier. And, yes, the 1/2 ounce stuff will work. It will just be, uhm, heavier.

On your plane that is cracking, did you put silkspan on the wood, or just paint over bare wood? Matt has been using silkspan lately over the majority of the fuselage, but puts carbon fiber "patches" down in the stress areas (Behind the wood canopy, where the trailing edge of the wing joins the fuselage, leading edge of the stabilizer...) If put over the stress areas, it reinforces these without a need to go "all the way". It doesn't appear that the .2 ounce carbon fiber veil is going to be any stronger on the fuselage than a single layer of silkspan. It may be stiffer, if that is important. Gieseke thinks it is lighter, but then he uses just the carbon fiber for filler...sands it off...reapplies. You can get a good, light finish either way, but when building light, reinforcing the stress areas before they crack can be important.

Leonard Neumann

kdheath · Feb 28, 2001 12:05 PM

#7 source
Leonard,
Do you think that soaking some of those critical areas with thin CA just before the silkspan or CF goes on would have benefits?

LNeumann · Feb 28, 2001 01:12 PM

#8 source
Soaking the critical areas with CA should make them stronger and less prone to getting stress cracks, yes. But you do need to make sure you have sanded first. There are a number of techniques that can be used to strengthen needed areas without adding tons of weight to the whole structure, and we need to balance out which is the less costly (in money and weight and time). Just remember, if an area is prone to stress cracks, it costs less in weight and time to put a small reinforcement on it now, rather than a larger one later.

Leonard Neumann

Warren · Feb 28, 2001 07:17 PM

#9 source
>While I'm on the CF subject,
>I have a question. I
>ordered some CF from Aerospace
>Products 4 or 5 months
>ago. When I ordered it
>I specificly asked for ".2
>ounce soft CF". The nice
>lady told me that was
>the only kind they carried
>now. But, it turned out
>to be .5 ounce rather
>than the .2 ounce I
>asked for. I've had it
>for months & just noticed
>it was the heavier material
>a short time ago. I'm
>ready to start covering most
>of the Shark 45 parts
>(all but the fuse). Will
>the .5 ounce stuff work,
>or should I call them
>back & re-order?

Most likely just an error in processing the order. Save the 0.5 oz material for doublers, and order some more of the 0.2 oz stock.

>) She said they only
>carried one kind now, I
>wonder if the .2 ounce
>is no longer available? Anyone
>know?

I placed and received an order for the 0.2 oz/sq yd material in December. At the time, I told the nice lady that took the order, that I understood that there were two types of 0.2 oz material available. She said that "Mr. Fancher" recommend the more flexible of the two, and that was what they were currently offering. They do have an 800 number, so you can check to see what is available.

As far as weight is concerned, I use the 0.5 oz/sq yd material under nose doublers, but I find that it absorbs an enormous amount of epoxy if you want it to be throughly "wetted" through. It took approximately 12 cc of epoxy per side to fully saturated the carbon fiber between the fuse side and the doubler. If you use the 0.5 oz material for covering the fuse, not only is it 2 1/2 times heavier, it will also take considerably more finish to fill it up.

Cheers,

Warren

ps: Nils, you sure got a lot of "press" in the last copy of Stunt News. Can I get an 'electronic autograph' ? <g>

Nils · Feb 28, 2001 10:09 PM

#10 source
Thanks guys. Since the .2 ounce stuff seems to still be available I'll re-order tomorrow. I'll make extra sure I get the right stuff on the way this time. The .2 ounce seems to be plenty for a skin, it really stiffened the fuse & tailfeathers on the Cardinal. I'll use some of the .5 ounce material on the wing center section & places that need a little extra beef.
Leonard- I built that Oriental fast & dirty in about three weeks. I was making sure I had a new airplane when the grass was ready in the new circle. I didn't put anything over the wood except two coats of Hobbypoxy balsa fillercoat & some Rustoleum. Up until that point my airplanes rarely lasted more than a few dozen flights without needing major repairs. All the ones I tried hard to make pretty up until then ended up gravitationally disfunctional.

Nils (electronic autograph for Warren )

Howard Rush · Feb 28, 2001 11:49 PM

#11 source
LAST EDITED ON Feb-28-01 AT 11:55 PM (EST)

"Hey goys,
I've heard a lot about carbon veil..."

I always suspected that that stuff isn't kosher.

The Kiwi · Mar 01, 2001 12:11 AM

#12 source
LAST EDITED ON Mar-02-01 AT 09:23 AM (EST)

>
> I always suspected that that stuff isn't
>kosher.

Himmel! Comes off of a pig, maybe?

K.

P. S. Talk about slow on the uptake! It was at least a day after seeing Howard's "kosher" comment before I realized he wasn't directly going to "veal" from veil. I'd been overlooking the "goys" in the subject line all along . .

.

Ted Fancher · Mar 02, 2001 12:22 AM

#13 source
Hi guys,

Glad I stumbled onto this thread. I have sort of a proprietary interest in this stuff since for some time I've been advocating its use. I still do, but with the caveat that you should be very careful for a while to insure that you get the right stuff!

First, let me say that George and Barbara Spahr at Aerospace Composites couldn't have been more helpful and forthcoming on our needs in the CF veil department. They are very anxious to please us and have gone out of their way to be as accomadating and helpful as possible.

That said, however, ACP is merely a retailer of goods they get from their suppliers. They don't actually produce any of it and are, therefore, at the mercy of changing times and changing moods on the part of those suppliers. We have spent some considerable time ironing out the pluses and minuses and the various suppliers to insure that they stock and are familiar with precisely the material which does the jobs we stunt people need.

To short curcuit a long story, they now have available and are familiar with precisely the product we prefer. It is currently in stock and available for shipping. As a previous contributor mentioned, they now have "only" the soft version acceptable for finishing purposes as outlined earlier. Although this "soft" version is 10% less desireable for purposes such as doublers, internal reinforcement ,etc. it is perfectly adequate and, given the fact that it makes such a great finish undersurface, more than qualifies as "the" CF veil to use.

In the interim, until we are all trained to recognize the "right" stuff, when we see it here's what to look for.

The right material is black (big surprise), soft to the touch rather than brittle or "starched" feeling and has a non-uniform appearance. The appearance giveaway is random strands of noticable larger fibers scattered about.

The bad stuff, on the other hand, is very uniform in appearance-more like black tissue-and has a starched, brittle feel to it.

In use the differences are immediately apparent. The binding material in the good stuff softens with dope and allows the fibers to "readjust" their position relative to one another. This makes it reasonably flexible in covering compound curves and shaping around the edges of surfaces such as elevators, tails and flaps etc. It will fill with just a few coats of dope and a couple of filler coat to an impecable finish.

The "bad"stuff remains stiff with the application of dope and has almost no ability to form around edges and corners. (This is the one characteristic which makes it preferable for purposes like doublers, etc. It acts pretty much like a very thin piece of plywood...with all the flexibility inherent in that description!) Even worse, when used as a finish undersurface it is almost impossible to fill completely. It will leave gazillions of tine pinholes that seem impervious to any known method of filling. It is ugly and evil in these uses and should be exorcized at all costs! I think that pretty much says it all.

Ted

Nils · Mar 02, 2001 01:42 AM

#14 source
Does anyone have the 800# for ACP? I'm going to call them in the morning & order the .2 oz soft veil for the Shark. I have the one on the package of .5 oz material but if they have an 800# I'd rather use that one Thanks,
Nils

Oh yeah-

Ted, I used the hard .2 oz stuff with the Balsarite brushed over it, sanded that & shot on two wet coats of PPG waterbase primer. I sanded most all of the primer back off & shot it with a rattle can. No pinholes at all. Maybe the Balsarite fills the little buggers or melts the binder? I didn't even realize there was a shiny side & a dull side until I was halfway through the job & Scott Riese pointed it out to me. Didn't seem to matter. Btw, I'm a bodyman by trade & I know a pinhole when I see one, they are the Bain of my existence

LNeumann · Mar 02, 2001 07:39 AM

#15 source
Shame on you, Nils! (20 lashes with a wet noodle!) I gave you the url to the ACP website: http://www.acp-composites.com/and if you simply bring that up and scroll down a bit, you will come to the telephone number:

"Order Desk: (800) 811-2009 Technical Assistance: (510) 352-2022"

Leonard Neumann

captcurt · Mar 02, 2001 07:40 AM

RE: Carbon Veil Binder#16 source
Gentlemen

I think Nils is onto the answer. In order to create a proper composite matrix ie fiber and epoxy(generic), it is important for the binder to be broken down by the solvents in the epoxy, dope, polyester, etc. If this binder release does not take place, as described by Ted, then there are great numbers of voids created in the matrix due to the suface tension and "wetability" of the material--the result in this case is lots of pinholes cosmetically--more important is lack of proper strength development.

In the example Ted indicates for making doublers and other flat structural reinforcement, you will find that there will be MUCH less strength developed in the hard binder samples until a bonding material is used that will release the binder.

My experience with this hard stuff is that both epoxy, and dope failed to break down the binder. I suspect that styrene in polyester might be the stuff it is designed to be used with. The heat that Nils used probably did it temporarily, but again, for a proper matrix to develop, the binder must be chemically soluble in the bonding material.

Its mighty expensive stuff to use for only cosmetic reasons.

FWIW

Curt

LNeumann · Mar 02, 2001 08:12 AM

RE: Carbon Veil Binder#17 source
Someone (I can't remember who) did a write up in Stunt News a while back on a brief (small, short) test he conducted by taking equal size pieces of balsa cut from the same sheet, and covering one with carbon fiber veil doped down and the other with plain silkspan doped down. With the samples he made, he did not find any significant difference in strength with either material.

The carbon fiber may make the structure stiffer, however. Certainly if it were epoxied on it would be (but it would also, then, be heavier). More tests certainly should be done before definitive conclusions are made. If you take a bare flap and twist it, you will notice that it will be fairly flexible unless made of extremely hard wood. If you take the same flap and cover it with the carbon fiber veil doped on, it will now be considerably stiffer. However, the same (or equal) flap covered with doped on silkspan will, also, be considerably stiffer (than the bare one).

I don't know which would, indeed, be stiffer or by how much, but one of the problems with the veil in adding the stiffness that carbon fiber is noted for is the randomness and shortness of the fibers.

Leonard Neumann

captcurt · Mar 02, 2001 11:15 AM

RE: Carbon Veil use in general#18 source
You are correct regarding the stiffness v. weight. I would add that I recently did a couple of the type tests you are talking about and the flaps were ALOT stiffer. But the weight is a real concern. Part of the problem is that, if strength was the end criteria, then veil wouldnt be the best solution. The random orientation of the fiber, and the short fiber lengths limits the achievable strength. In typical GRP (glass fiber reinforced plastic)construction, chopped strand mat is only used as a thickness builder--gets some panel thickness between the woven strength layers (spacing here yields panel stiffness)

For controlling twist in a long slender flap, the proper material might be two layers of unidirectional layed at a 30 degree bias. Or a piece of .75 Oz flat woven fabric cut and layed at a 45 degree. ( The same way you might orient balsa grain in a laminated panel.)

The trouble is, like you said, the weight can go up fast. I came the conclusion that this would be an appropriate application for maybe a built -up sheeted flap with very thin skins and a CF wrap. Once the CF skin is used, all of the bending and twisting loads become tension in the skin, and compression in the core (monocoque) so applying this stuff over solid parts becomes heavier than required. Alot of the core function is to simply maintain the spacing of the stressed skin. (and I'm sure the structural guys here will call me to task for not mentioning the core-to-skin shear as well)

Used in that way for hollow stab/el, built up flaps, and light fuse sections really makes sense, even with epoxy. But getting high fiber content ratios is nearly impossible to do without vacuum bagging. Otherwise, painting on epoxy and trying to remove excess or sand off weight is not very effective overall.

Also, the difference in strength or stiffness between reinforcing with .5 or .6 oz CF versus regular old glass fiber of same weight can be difficult to evaluate or take advantage of unless very consistent and optimum fiber content ratio can be created--nearly impossible by hand.

Another real problem with CF over balsa is that, even with small amounts the skin becomes so strong that in bending, the core simply crushes. The popular full-scale solution is to use end-grain balsa for core since it is quite strong in that orientation. Also, since usable layup thicknesses are so thin for our purposes, small process variations in fiber content or thickness can create very big stress concentrations and these also can lead to core failure.

All in all though, carbon fiber is a wonderful product. It does take alot of insight to optimize its potential however.

Having been involved with fiber reinforced composite engineering, design, and application for thirty plus years, I actually got to see the introduction of Kevlar, carbon fiber and some others.

Anyone for synthetic saphire or silicon carbide fiber reinforcement?? Yes, its out there.

just some thoughts.

I'm glad to have these forums to discuss some of this stuff--its hard to find other concentrations of modelers interested in these things.

Curt

Warren · Mar 02, 2001 03:52 PM

RE: Carbon Veil Binder#21 source
>Someone (I can't remember who) did
>a write up in Stunt
>News a while back on
>a brief (small, short) test
>he conducted by taking equal
>size pieces of balsa cut
>from the same sheet, and
>covering one with carbon fiber
>veil doped down and the
>other with plain silkspan doped
>down. With the samples
>he made, he did not
>find any significant difference in
>strength with either material.

The article you are refering to was written by Don Hutchinson, and published in the Sep/Oct issue of Stunt News. He did a good job of designing some simple tests and he presenting some very interesting results. Don has an engineering background.

His finding were objective (as opposed to subjective), based on actual measurements of the test sample that he produced. Basically, his conclusion was that there was very little diffence in strength and rigidity between balsa covered with carbon veil or standard silkspan. Please re-read his article for the exact details. Well worth the read.

Cheers,

Warren

Jim · Mar 02, 2001 11:33 AM

#19 source
I checked out the Aerospace Composite Products website. I found Aeromat lited for .2 Oz and Aero Veil listed by size, but not weight.

Could someone please specify by ACP Code which of the material should be ordered?

Thanks

Nils · Mar 02, 2001 12:15 PM

#20 source
First off, the noodle welts will heal in time I guess Leonard
Btw, it took me a half dozen times to get here this morning. Are you experiencing technical dificulties? Usually this is one of the easiest forums to get to.
Curt- I use the original "fabric formula" Balsarite & cut it 100% with acetone. (50-50 Balsarite/acetone) Do you think maybe the acetone is melting the binder as well as the heat? It's pretty hot stuff chemically, hotter than lacquer thinner/dope thinner. I use two coats of this (allowed to dry & sanded lightly to remove nibs) under the CF & two wet coats over the top. Maybe it's a combination of the heat & acetone? I know with the iron fairly hot I can wrap it a little past halfway around the edge of a quarter inch thick rounded stab fairly easily. I trim it with some 220 grit. It doesn't try to come up when I brush the Balsarite over it, it just feathers in. Then I do the same thing to the other side & it's hard to see where they meet after sanding. One thing I didn't like- don't get the dust from trim sanding the edges on your wrists! Argghh! Way worse itchies than fiberglass. Very interesting post btw!
Jim- The # for a 9' roll of .2 oz is MC-03.
Now if I can just get the nice lady back when I call instead of this dang machine I'll order some :/
Nils

Steve Helmick · Mar 05, 2001 12:12 AM

#22 source
What do you suppose the formulation of "Balsarite" is? With all your experience (Nils) with strange automotive finishing compounds, does it remind you of any of them? The FF guys don't use Balsarite too much, they said it was too heavy and used contact cement to stick down MicaFilm. As for Carbon mat, that was years ago when I flew FAI FF, but light glass was used a lot. The proceedure was to give the wood a coat of thin Nitrate to reduce epoxy penetration. And they went to great lengths to get the lightest epoxy, a certain "Epon" from Germany. Then lay the .6 oz glass on at a 45 degree, and brush epoxy on, 100% thinned with alcohol. Immediately use a roll of TP, and roll it across the surface to soak up excess epoxy. When the outer layer of TP is too wet to soak up epoxy, peel it off and dispose of it. Keep rolling the TP on the epoxy. In theory, the .2 or even .5 oz carbon should be lighter. As for sanding, some guys sanded until all the divots in the weave were gone. This meant that you'd sanded about half way through. It also meant that you cut the fibers into short lengths and they were now quite weak. Hard but weak. I read some engineering books abt. "GRP" and they said the glass fibers HAD to be isolated from eachother, fully saturated. Otherwise the strands would cut eachother, weakening the result. Clear dope doesn't seem strong/tough enough to properly isolate the fibers. I see no reason why CF mat would be any different, regarding the saturation, the saturating fluid, or the sanding. The ideal situation is to rely on the CF and eliminate as much of the underlying support as you can, IMHO. Taper those spars, D-boxes and TE's, you'll be amazed at how much weight you can trim off at no sacrifice in useful strength. Steve