Dope Brushes

Do dope brushes that don't shed hairs exist?

Hi Howard:

Maybe in some alternative universe...

Anyway, I've had pretty good luck with the Sig brand, especially those fat 1" jobs. What you don't want to do is let them marinate in thinner when you're cleaning them out (marinate sauerbraten, not hair). Like, don't let them sit there until the next solar eclipse or something. Usually, five minutes is sufficient.

Don't you just hate it when you get those awful, Jane Fonda loving hairs in a paint job once it's good and dry? And you try to pick it out with an Xacto #11? And once you get it out, the legacy acne scar looks even worse? Makes a soul want to turn to Monocote.

Well, almost...

Howard --

DeVilbus makes some.

Try the foam brushes and chuck 'em when you're done. Steve

In an old AM plans handbook it suggested putting your dope in a jamjar and poking a hole in the lid, putting the dope brush through the hole and leaving it there - the brush is always suspended in dope and never actually dries out!

Never tried it meself - I prefer drinking out of my jamjars!

Howard, the bursh hairs add considerable strength and very little weight. Why doesn't someone produce a kevlar or carbon fiber brush that would add even more strength?

I've heard people refer to using foam brushes with dope, but everyone I try is melted by the dope. I've bought different ones at different places with the same results. Any hints as a source would be appreciated.

Thanks Kreth

Howard:

The short answer is "no." Even expensive red sable artist's brushes (if you can find them) shed. The SIG and Brodak camel hair brushes are adequate and economical.

Here's a tip I learned years ago. Put your new brush in a vise with about 3/8" of the metal feurell (sp?) in the jaws. Gently clamp down until the metal gives a little (flattens) and clamps down on the bristles. You'll still lose a few bristles initially but in time, you'll end up with a shed-free brush.

I drill a hole in the handles of my brushes. Next, I put a lenth of wire through the hole so I can suspend them in a jar of thinner. I use this method between coats while I'm doping stuff. After I'm done, I give them a 30 min soak and then dry with paper towels. Be sure to re-shape the bristles at this stage. Good luck. Gary

Howard,

I get my brushes from the local hobby and art supply store. They are camel hair, pretty expensive, but they don't shed - ever!

Jim,

What brand are they? Alternatively, would that store do mail order? Thanks.

Howard --

Wonder what would happen if you took a brush, held it "bristles up" in a vise, and put a little thin CYA in and around the metal clamp that holds the bristles? My hope is it would bond the bristles to each other inside the metal (and to the metal) without making the brush any stiffer or harder to clean. Maybe a 1/32 bead line, and a dainty squirt right in the middle of the fanned open bristles.

I think I'll try it!

Larry,

You end up with a brush that has about 3/8" of usable bristles. Ask me how I know.

I think the only thing that really works is to keep the brush well loaded so the dope flows on without tugging on the bristles.

I've successfully used the foam brushes, but I flow the dope on quickly then clean them. They would probably melt if you left them in the paint for a long time.

George