Peter Hess · Mar 20, 2001 04:46 PM
#0 sourceIf the "moderately priced" modifier is deleted from the question, what's a good choice?
Thanks for your comments.
Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 17 of 17 known posts recovered
I think the only one worth expending hard-earned funds for is the TNC tach. It's $85, but it actually works, unlike the Tower/Hobbico and the the GloBee. To me paying $25 for one that doesn't work well is being penny wise and pound foolish.
It's unfortunate that the old Heathkit analog tach is no longer available. It worked well, and you could save a lot of money by assembling it yourself.
Brett
The TNC tach is available in two varieties. $80 for three digit readout, $100 for switchable three or four digit readout. You can, also, buy the three digit unit and have it upgraded to the four digit unit for $19.95. (Not a bad deal, either.) Postage is extra.
Leonard Neumann

Oh yeah, he makes a great tach too!
George
Several years ago, while beginning to work with some engines I'd never experimented with before, I acquired a Royal tach. It's a really garish purple color and seems to work fine. It wasn't very expensive at all. HOWEVER, I forget that I have it with me, most of the time -- just about the only time I do recall to pull it out is when I have an engine running on a test stand.
I often wonder why I forget having it at regular flying sessions, but all I can come up with is the habits of too many years didn't include using such a tool.
As best I can recall, this tach was between $50 and $60 six years or so ago. I wonder if it was an overpriced "cheap" tach or cost less back then than $80 or $85 of today, just due to inflation?
Kiwi
.
Len, thanks for the web address!
Randy
Nils
Leonard Neumann
That *might* be true. It's much more likely that the extra load on the prop on the ground resulted in more unload, meaning it has to be set slower on the ground to get the right in-flight revs. Of course, reducing the pitch reduces the unloading too.
>The problem is, the Prather
>Pitch gauge doesn't measure past
>about 11.5 inches, so after
>that you are kind of
>on your own.
Really? Mine goes out to about 13", if you hang the slider off the edge.
Still,
>having the tach to know
>what rpm is needed to
>run a certain prop combination
>certainly helps. Even with
>the 35, there was a
>major difference between Zingers and
>By&Os and Rev-Ups and Bollys
>and...
It's even more complicated than brand-to-brand variation of the measured pitch. The airfoil shape has a huge effect on both the ability to measure, and the line of zero lift. Most Bollys, for example, have a semi-symmetrical airfoil that tends to end up being measured at less than it really is just by virtue of the shape causing you to measure lower than the chord line. On others, like the Rev-Up and Brian Eather props, you are more or less measuring the chord line, but even then, the fundamental property you need to make analytical sense out of the effects is the line of zero lift, and that is drastically different between the Brian Eather, Rev-up, and Bolly, even if you measure the chord line perfectly. By drastically different, to get a true pitch of 3.5" at the tip of a 12" Brian Eather u/c prop, the chord line has to be at a negative angle! Now we all know from experience that actually using this sort of angle will result in terrible performance (like you deployed a parachute in every corner), which merely means that we have determined through trial and error that the best pitch distribution is strongly progressive.
I've been doing a lot of research in this area. If anyone has good examples of different competitive props (Bolly, Brian Eather, APC, Bill Lee, or old-style Y&O, BY&O, and Brodak BY&0) that are broken but still have one intact blade, please contact me and I'll see of it would fill in any gaps in the record. I cut the prop into sections, then scan it in using a scanner, then blow it up in order to determine the camber, high point, and thus zero-lift-line position. This was suggested by the illustrious Joe Supercool, on his web site, and it's a real eye-opener, and makes a lot of sense out of some otherwise very inconsistent results.
Brett
OK, now you have me wondering. Is it possible that there are different variants of the Prather pitch gauge? Ours has 14 stations on the face plate, but, only 13 stations on the base. Measuring from the center of the last station (13) to the edge of the bar used to measure the pitch, I read 5 5/8 inches. That would make it 11 1/4 inch for the prop diameter. If you hang the slider off the edge to try to (somehow) use the 14th station, the distance still measures only 6 inches on our gauge, making it 12 inches as the maximum that could then be read (accurately or not.)
If yours, or someone else's out there in cyberspace, is different than the one we have, I would be interested to know. (All right, everybody, let's all go out and measure our Prather Pitch Gauges.)
Leonard Neumann
Actually, it has one switch, a three-way. Position one is OFF, two is two-blade props, and three is three-bladed props.
>. . . it was made to lab quality specs. even to
>having o tolerance resisters, even the meter had a
>jeweled pivot point for the needle.
Mine has a digital readout, not an analog needle.
Kiwi
I have fooled with the less expensive units (cheaper) in effort to be able to offer reasonable alternatives to new guys. I have ended up pitching two into our swamp!
The TNC unit is terrific!
I opted to buy the one that displays to 10 rpm simple because it made sense. These are really good units!
See Ya
Peabody
The 100-RPM version is plenty adequate. Engine RPM wanders around +/-100 RPM anyhow.
Anyway, in fading afternoon light, the nose of the Hobbico practically has to make love with the spinner to get any kind of reading. Which isn't good, and not aconducive to long tach life. So when the H. sheds its mortal coil through (hopefully) normal means, I'll go to one of the recommended (albeit pricier) tachs posted here.
Another Hobbico whine: Whether you store it in its little box or just throw it in the field box, it is easy to inadvertantly move the on/off switch to ON.
More: the rectangular shape doesn't fit the hand in any ergonomically correct way that I am familiar with. Picky, picky. But Dubbya doesn't care about carpal tunnel.
Still more: the averaging algorithm needs to be smoother. (You have to decide: do I read that peak rpm figure that I think I saw flashing and teasing me for a millisecond, or do I take that steady value that was lower, but hung around for, say, half asecond? When you're trying to pick your best Cox 1/2A (such as it is), this is "important".
Currell (not tacky)