Detailing

Ok, to get a good finish, we sand and spray. To get a good base, we brush and sand.

In between, all the trim elements are added. I am lost here.

All you guys get Stunt News. Look at the back page of the Jan/Feb issue and "Boogie Woogie." How the heck is the color and the words "Boogie Woogie" applied? Razor blades on some kind of Coverite Graphics sheet, then transfer? OK, then is the original image from a computer file or are people like that artistic enough to just freehand the words?

On the front cover of the most recent issue, the Ringmaseter blew my mind. Is this done with masking tape and paint (maybe the simpler parts?) or what. What about the numbers 3303? How were those done? What about the custom FCM (decals ?) How would you do those?

Both the ships on the back cover of the March/April issue also show great detail.

How do you guys do that?

Much can be done if you have access to a computer, color printer, color copier and some decal paper. Sometimes things are done on the computer and taped over something such as tacky shelf lining paper and cut out which leaves a template to stick down on the plane. I do most of my A/C numbers/names in that manner. There's no end to the different fonts you can select from. Some people also do numbers by cutting them out from monokote and sticking them down onto the surface of the wing, ect. John Simpson does his numbers that way. Still others contract with graphics companies to supply either paint templates or cut-out stick on type graphic. There's a lot of choices out there, probably even more than these that I know about.

My questions are: 1) Can it be applied direct to balsa, Brodak doped surfaces and silkspan? 2) Can both clear and colored Brodak dope be applied over it?

There are many small vinyl sign cutting businesses out there in people's basements and garages. If you happen to know one of these people, and he/she happens to know his stuff, Ultracote can be run through instead of the vinyl sign material. Apparently Monokote doesn't work because it does not have the heavy "paper-like" backing paper. Suggest to the operator that it will work best if the cutter is set at a lower speed than for vinyl. If you use one of these services, they can boot up all kinds of graphics and fonts for you to see on the screen before cutting. The graphic is then removed from the backing and stuck onto friskcut (sp?) paper and ironed on to the surface you want. You will need to provide the dimensions of the area(s) you wish to place the graphic into and the Ultracote in whatever color(s) you want to use. John

I think the main thing to say to you is that you have to get your base right or the rest of the finish won't be any good. It isn't just a matter of putting dope on wood, but preparing the wood surface so it is as blemish free as possible, then doping down the silkspan and filling the silkspan and a lot of sanding. Then there is a lot of masking, and light coats of color--just enough to cover. Then clear and more sanding and buffing.

A lot of the good finishes come by experience. Just as the newcomer isn't going to fly a 500 point pattern his first (or 100th) time out, so he isn't going to apply the perfect finish on his first plane. But one by one you strive to make them better. Take a look at what other people are doing. If you like a technique, ask how it was done. Then ask yourself it if is worth that amount of time and effort to make your plane look that pretty. If you are still likely to be crashing every other week end, don't worry about it. Those types of finishes are done by the people of experience who expect to put 1000 flights (or more) on their planes.

Well, I've certainly never PLANNED to crash, not even when I was learning. <grin>. Good point though. Don't bother with a killer finish if your still learning the complete pattern.

Even better, most sign shops can make vinyl paint stencils. You tell them what you want, send some money, get the stencils and paint. Comes out perfect every time. I have gotten them from both Vinylwrite and Aero Graphics. For large markings this is *the* solution.

For smaller markings, the ink-jet decal paper sold by Micro-Mark works well. For rivets, Letra-set works. You can also get custom dry-transfers made, but it's really expensive.

Thanks for painting a good picture of the options.

We have a contact now.