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Building Tables, Boards, and Jigs

Stuka Stunt Main Forum · 26 of 26 known posts recovered

LNeumann · May 15, 2001 07:19 AM

#0 source
I am just curious what you people use to build on. Matthew, for instance, has built a 4 foot byu 6 foot table top, covered with formica, that we designed so we can shim it underneath for absolute flatness (well, as absolute as we are, anyway). Others will cover their top with plate glass and shim it with playing cards or such. Some will build on an old door and some just build on their lap.

What do you have available to you? Maybe we can find some quick, simple, (and inexensive) ideas for people to fabricate a flat building surface that will help them in the building and alignment of their planes.

Also, if you use a jig for the wing or fuselage, what do you use and how good is it. We have used an Adjust-O-Jig for a number of planes, but the last two Matthew has built using the "lost foam" process. This works well, but will only build one, precise wing. You would need a new set for every new and different wing you built.

OK, now, your turn. What do you use? What have you seen used? What would you recommend to newcomers on a budget?

Leonard Neumann

Michael McMahon · May 15, 2001 08:15 AM

#1 source
I have an 18 inch wide piece of 1 inch particle board that I place on the bench and shim as needed to make it flat.

I then rip pine strips on the table saw to the proper thickness to support the L.E. and T.E stock above the board. These strips depend on the airfoil and the stock sizes I plan to use.

The pine strips are then screwed (countersunk) onto the board.

I pin the L.E. and T.E. to the pine strips after marking/notching them, and assemble the wing.

I am pleased with the results. My wing frames come out straight.

Michael

mcm · May 15, 2001 09:11 AM

#2 source
I have been using 1/4 inch foam board laid on a piece of cabinet-grade plywood I have. Easy for pins and such and if I cut it up with an xacto, I can buy a huge new piece at hobby lobby for under $5. However, I will never do this again because of problems with sqareness. I've noticed the styrofoam board tends to warp easily (usually before you buy it) and If your wingspan is over 40-inches, you have to piece together another piece of foam and any prayer for a level surface is gone. Also, trying to lay plans and wax paper flat is very difficult.
I think I will just start using the plywood and try spot gluing or tacking any shims into place

LNeumann · May 15, 2001 09:24 AM

#3 source
Some people use ceiling tile for this, laying it on the building table. It will usually lay flat and you can stick pins into it easily.

Leonard Neumann

Jake · May 15, 2001 09:57 AM

#4 source
LAST EDITED ON May-15-01 AT 08:51 PM (EST)

Plate glass...
When I found out that the master Scale builder Dave Platt used it to turn out his masterpieces, that is what I went with.
It isn't exactly cheap, but it sure is flat, and stable too. Put a piece of sheetrock on top, and you have a real nice surface. The cost of the glass and it's supporting table are trivial compared to that of your airplanes and the time and effort you put into each one. It is like tools, I only buy the best, it pays off in the long run, even if more costly at first, you'll be glad you did later on.
I use various home brew jigs and such for each model as required, making what I need, just as with templates, based on how many of each design I expect to build in future, as to how elaborate the "tooling" gets.

JAK

Scott Riese · May 15, 2001 10:16 AM

#5 source
I use a glass table top. I went to an construction junk yard that sells good item's at very low cost. The glass top is 3/8th thick 2'x4' and only $2. At the club house we have two table tops that are 6'x6' that can be used at any time. I use a fuse jig that comes from "Foremost" Very simple to use. Scott

Kiiski · May 15, 2001 10:56 AM

#6 source
I bought a piece of 3/4" MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard, cost is around $18), which is a more dense type of particle board, this stuff is harder than the back of my head, on which I laid a sheet of 1/2" drywall for "pin stickin'". I have them "floating" on a frame made of 2x6's with playing card shims to level the whole mess. The nice thing about the drywall is that once it gets to banged up you can replace it for about $5. The only real drawback to the MDF is if you need to cut more than a couple of feet, you can pretty much expect to waste a saw blade.
Kiiski

RocketCityJim · May 15, 2001 11:18 AM

#7 source
Len,

I basically use good old shelving material that I can get pretty cheaply at Lowe's or Home Depot. I get the 5/8 inch thick by 16 inches by 48 inches. I take a 4 foot nice straight ruler to the shelving department and make sure it's nice and straight. Then I put in on my hobby card table, and go to town with my Jig Blocks. It's pretty simple but works real good!

RCJ

Flyin_Again · May 15, 2001 12:54 PM

#8 source
When I started back into building about a year and a half ago, my budget was quite small. I ended up with a work table that is from a hollow core door. On that I mounted a piece of 3'X 5' wall paneling with the backside up. T-pins stick into it without much trouble.

This past winter I bought a Great Plains wing jig that has helped me a great deal. I'm still building profile type airplanes, but my progress has been good.

I have to give credit to the wonderful group of C/L modelers that have helped my through my re-learning process. Things sure have changed in the 35+ years I was away from flying and building. If it wasn't for this forum and others, I would have had a lot of trouble. Because of the help, I've avoided many mistakes. Thanks, Guys!

Bill
Flyin_Again

currell · May 15, 2001 01:31 PM

Beggars can't be choosers#9 source
Whatever flat surfaces they are throwing away at the local building sites.

Of course, I would never five-finger discount any of the more choice stuff under cover of darkness. Certainly not.

(Actually, the local Heat likes to drive around these quasi-finished subdivisions at night with their lights off. Makes an honest person out of all of us).

Currell

Kelvin · May 15, 2001 01:59 PM

RE:Jigs#10 source
I have the glass and sheet option. I also use an Adjusto-Jig with a fuselage fixture. The AJ worked better with RC type structure, though. Sometimes, the big holes in CL ribs make it hard to find a place for the rods to go through. Have you seen the jig that Windy built out of a tombstone and some aluminum and stainless steel rods? WOW!

groundcrew · May 15, 2001 03:53 PM

#11 source
Leonard,

When I was setting up my new shop recently, I went to a local glass contractor to see what was available. He had a 70" x 44" piece of ½" tempered (actually bullet resistant) glass that was salvaged from a local check cashing business when the building was renovated. After levelling the tops of two scavenged bedroom dressers set back to back the glass was set on top and needed very little shimming to be perfectly flat and true. I paid $80 for it and it was worth every penny. For jigs I use Currell's method, whatever I have on hand. However, a friend and fellow modeler has found some 3/8" stainless rod and we are going to set up a set of Windy's rods.

Don

EricV · May 15, 2001 06:16 PM

#12 source
The table de'jur -- 2x6's laid up like butcherblock, with a 3/4" plywood skin, topped with an old glass shower door (minus the hardware). A ceiling tile will grace the top most surface on the appropriate occasions.
E.

Steve Helmick · May 15, 2001 07:35 PM

#13 source
When I was in my Freshman year of HS, I built a portable workbench unit, two 2' cubes, each with two drawers and a pair of doors at the bottom, and 1x4 supports to bring height to about 30". The original top was only 1/2" 24" x 6' ply, and I recently replaced that with a solid core door, with a glass coffee table top on it that was about the same size. I put lag screws into the bottoms of the "legs", to allow adjusting, and borrowed a precision level from work (machine shop). Looks like it should work ok if I can find time to use it. Steve

PS Just got home from Boston (via Denver), attended daughter's graduation ceremony from Emerson College Flew over Leonard's house. And a lot of potential flying fields. Didn't see a single ukie model being flown, go figure! Old Sourdough would have gone nuts, all the LHS were train shops except for a couple. I didn't bother. Horrid traffic, no parking, subway sucks, stuff is VERY expensive. I couldn't live like that. Count your blessings.

Larry F · May 16, 2001 04:59 AM

#14 source
Gang --

Thanks to previous tips on this forum, 1/4" plate glass. I got a piece 52" long for about $28. Covered it with .085 book binder's board (not cardboard!), which by spec is flat and comes in large sheets. Slather the back of the board with high quality two-sided tape, and you have a disposable, highly pinnable (is that a word?) top cover immune from humidity changes.

I have found the Brodak type balsa sticks pinned to the board are adequate for a wing jig, with a little custom setup of shims and arithmetic for a tapered wing.

Larry F

Rob Stagis · May 16, 2001 05:43 AM

#15 source
An ex-dining room table with glass top, topped with a suspended-ceiling panel. The table is a trestle-style pine thing about 1" thick with a 1/4" (I've never measured it, but it's thick) glass top. It's about 6 feet long, which is adequate for everything I'll ever build, but occasionally I end up setting up an additional table alongside when joining wings (on R/C). It works well.

Jim T. · May 16, 2001 02:03 PM

#16 source
At the moment I am building on a 36 x 18 cabinet door I found in a dumpster. I will soon upgrade, although my wife says I cannot have a slab from the local granite place. One trick I have found with jigs is to put down strips of masking tape and then cya the jig bits to the masking tape. Holds nicely and is removable from the building board with no problem. The more I build, the more jigs and fixtures I use.

Jim Thomerson

gcb · May 17, 2001 03:53 AM

#19 source
"...One trick I have found with jigs is to put down strips of masking tape and then cya the jig bits to the masking tape. Holds nicely and is removable from the building board with no problem. The more I build, the more jigs and fixtures I use.
Jim Thomerson ..."

Thanks for that tip, Jim. I had never thought of masking tape. I was assuming, one jig, one dedicated shelf board.

I currently build on a 1/4" glass plate about 1.5' x 4'.

George

Larry F · May 16, 2001 05:56 PM

#17 source
Leonard --

Great question, and very informative answers for / from all.

Larry F

Randy · May 17, 2001 12:36 AM

#18 source
Hmm, well, my primary building surface is an island work bench I built using 2x2s with gussets and a 1" maple top. I, like others, picked up a chunk of 1/2" glass to lay on top. But I've found that using the "floating jig", I dont' really have to have a particularly level surface since I can adjust the jig to level pretty easily. I've just finished building my 3rd wing and stabilizer with this jig and it is dead straight, so I'll keep with that. The fuse jig is pretty conventional. Jig sits on the glass.

Randy

bb36dd966 · May 17, 2001 10:28 PM

#20 source
I used to use a 6 foot by 20" hollow door that has been checked and is true and on top of that I use Homasote. However, I just purchased a balsa building board that is 14" by 48" to put on top of the door. The door is mounted on top of a Sears workbench that has a 1 1/2" particle board surface. On nmy HO railroad I use a small plate glass 13" X 16" cut from a discarded display case from a shoe store that went out of business. I am going to get a large plate glass for building.

Chuck Potts · May 17, 2001 10:48 PM

#21 source
With all of these amazing technological "Goodies", I'm surprised some of you aren't using your stash of Jo blocks to "square" everything up. If I took all of these ideas and digested them, I would have to take up GOLF! Now THAT'S DISGUSTING! All I use is a piece of 2'x4' acoustical ceiling tile, tacked onto a piece of FLAT 1"x12" shelving board. I lay this across a double bed, and build away. When the tile board gets too nasty to keep using, I squander another $4.00 at the local hardware store, and start over. T-pins stick easily, hold just fine, and balsa spacers or spacers ripped from soft pine make excellent fixtures for parts-holding. (I quit using my outside metal building because even now, in May, my building gets to over 100 degrees almost every day) When warm weather gets here, its miserable out there!
P.S. Toms Millenium wing is as much jigging as most of us need, and it sure is cheap and easy. Chuck Potts, in Mobile, AL

mrwhizkers · May 18, 2001 05:12 PM

#22 source
I have two tables. One is a professional grade 20"x55" butcher block type, complete with two wood vices. The other is a 2.5'x7' "scratch built" table using a 2"x4" frame and 4"x4" legs. The surface is 3/4" plywood. On top of this I use a 20"x48" sheet of 1/4" tempered glass on which I place a same sized sheet of vinyl covered sheet rock. Vinyl covered sheet rock can be purchased from a mobile home supply company.. It comes in handy if, like me, you have a tendency to spill liquids (coffee, ammonia, assorted solvents or Jack Daniels) on your building surface. They all wipe up with a paper towel and don't leave any soft spots or warpage.

Hollow cored, sheeted foam wings and fiberglass fuses have pretty much done away with the need for jigs. For the occasional OTS or classic ship I generally just use scraps from the last plane for a temporary jig as I'm only going to use it once.

Don Dixon · May 18, 2001 07:57 PM

#23 source
Mrwhizkers,

I didn't know you were a foamie builder. Congratulations on your win at Texarkana last week! I have always liked that model.

Good work Monte!

Don

John Miller · May 18, 2001 09:27 PM

#24 source
Well, I've used, at one time or another, almost all the various methods described.

I have a friend in Wisconsin who uses a large piece of heavy glass levelled out on a table. I builds I beamers exclusivly and simply Ca's the pices of balsa he uses for jig blocks to the glass. when he's finished he scrabes them loose with a single edged razor.

Currently, I use a desk bought from government surplas sales. This is one of those heavy duty metal ones the government is so fond of. I checked the top and it's level. I placed a trimmed to fit pice of 5/8" sheetrock on top and find it more than adequate for most uses. I also like the fact that I have access to all those drawers. I have a nice office type chair to sit in while building and everything is at the right height.

One of my most recent aquisitions came from a construction site where I was working. They were sheathing the building with 1.5: cut and polished granite and the kindly gave me a nice large, heavy, piece that was flawed for their purposes. I haven't used it yet, but I can guarantee that it's flat.

I also have a large piece of 3/8" glass to use, but I haven't found the need to yet.

One of the most intriguing jigs is one I recently purchased from Andy over in Longmont Co. It's an adjustable Lincoln Log type jig. I believe that it's versatile enogh theat I most likely will not find the need for any othe jigs in the future.

I built a rod type jig years ago and still have it, but I've found little use for it building CL stunters. It works great for RC wings though. The problem is the large holes I cut in my stunters ribs. Just not enough material left for the rods.

Great topic, lots of food for thought.

John

Hib · May 19, 2001 10:31 AM

#25 source
A number of years back I was lucky enough to find a Mayline drafting table with 5'x3' surface. ' Been using it for drawing
(it has a large track machine on it). To use it for model
building all I had to do was shim the sag out of the front edge and check the surface with a straight edge in all axis.
I have some pieces of drywall with the edges taped for wing boards. The great thing is it's height and that I have it set at about 15 degress tilt. I can stand working at the thing and not wreck my back...... way cool!!!....Nitro Fumes!!....Hib